I have a few built lead deposites on the bottom of my Sprue plate.Whats the best way to go about removing the lead and smears so as not to damage the surface of the plate?
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I have a few built lead deposites on the bottom of my Sprue plate.Whats the best way to go about removing the lead and smears so as not to damage the surface of the plate?
If it is a steel sprue cutter plate I take it off the mold, put it in a vise, heat it up gently with a propane torch and wipe off the smears with coarse steel wool. Could probably use a hot air gun. If it is aluminum (Lee six cavity) then i'd stay away from a torch and go with hot air and a soft rag, steel wool wouldn't be good.
When I started using Bullplate I stopped getting lead smears and the light smears on some molds disappeared after a while. If you aren't using some sort of mold lube it might be worth trying.
Bullplate sprue plate lube will not prevent molten lead from smearing on the sprue plate or the mold blocks but it will prevent the smears from sticking to the mold and sprue plate.
Works the same way in boolit lube in a gun barrel.
To remove the lead run hot lead over the smear until it is soft then wipe off. This works for the top of the mold also. If you can stick a part of the sprue plate in the alloy this helps heat it up.
Then use the Bullplate (see Bullshop above) lube or get the mold release from Bayou Bullets (Swamprat here) and apply it.
Wait just a little longer before cutting the sprue will also help.
When I am casting, I keep a carpenters pencil close at hand. You can use it to rub off lead smears on a sprue plate if the mold is hot.
Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting
How's that? Are you saying that the lead in a carpenters pencil interacts with the lead to remove it? If so,I have a whole bunch of carpenter pencils within arms reach of me.Originally Posted by Hickok
Hard enough to do the job and soft enough to not damage, plus its easy to hold.
I use a tongue depressor or popsicle/craft stick. Bamboo skewers work good at removing flecks from crevices.
You need to use sprue plate lube (Bullshop is good) and let it cool for a few more seconds to keep the lead from smearing. You are cutting the sprue too early. You'll also see tearing of the bases instead of a nice even flat swipe.
First thing is cool your sprus with a wet rag and you wont have this problem.
Two ways of doing it on a STEEL spruplate.
1. Single edge razor blade at a very slight angle to the plate. Don't use on Lee aluminum plates!
2. Swing the spru plate off the mold and dip in the melt for about 10 seconds, wipe off with a paper towel.
Last edited by fecmech; 06-17-2014 at 07:50 PM.
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle
Keep an eye on the underside while casting, as soon as you notice a smear , stop and get it off . Don't let it build up, it's also easier to remove while the mould is hot. Flat stick, carpenter pencil and/or steel wool or green scrub pad (it doesn't melt) will take it off. A very thin film of anti-seize compound on underside helps . I keep these items on the bench so I can get them pesky smears taken care of quickly .
Gary
Use a good sprue lube.
A lot of good solid advice so far. The best solution is to prevent smears. Use of a fan helps as well as casting a bit slower. Another way of removing a lead smear is to rub it with the corner of an ingot. It takes a little elbow grease, but the ingot will pick up the smear. LLS
I just use my pocket knife to remove lead from pretty much everything. Just have to have a steady hand. But mostly, use some Bullplate.
I just wipe them off with a cotton shop rag while the mold is still hot and re-apply anti-sieze to the mold top after the next pour.
Synthetic tranny fluid works well too.
Got it.I had a green scotch brite pad and tried that and it came right off.I guess it wasn't as bad as it looked.I will be much more careful the next time and check the bottom of the plate during the casting process.I'll nip it in the bud before it starts.Thanks for all the replies.I'll remember all the procedeures that you use.
+1 for the carpenters pencil while casting. That works great for me if I get a spot... I can just "erase it" with the pencil. It's fast and easy and I can keep on casting. The graphite left by the pencil also helps prevent more smears from sticking as bad (if I don't slow down casting enough to prevent more smears).
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
I see a fare share of casters like to keep a carpenter's pencil handy.I now have a brand new carpenter's pencil on my bench within easy reach.Thanks for sharing.
On a cold mold, I use a soft lead ingot to rub lead smears off the mold or sprue plate. since I started using a good sprue plate lube, it rarely happens.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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If your are getting lead smears, which you should not, you are opening the sprue plate too soon and the lead is not cool enough. Slow down and prevent it. Also a touch of 2 cycle engine oil for lube. Scrape off smears with a wood stick while plate is hot as mentioned above.
But try to prevent them in the 1st place.
bangerjim
I'm starting to use the green scotch brite pad more than the steel wool now. I had it on the bench one day and gave it a try on the hot mould, it worked like a charm and didn't melt. The steel wool transfers heat to my fingers a little too quickly when used , the green pad doesn't. I use it most on the top of the sprue holes, at times lead sticks a bit to the beveled opening and the pad lets you scour it away without becoming too hot.
Gary
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