Powder Coating Boolits

[joemoe]

I PC everything as soon as it's done cooling from casting. The sizing dies don't rub off the coating. If you find it does then the coating is going to fail even worse in your bore and you need to figure what you are doing wrong.

Nope never had a coat rub off. I will just try sizing after PC'ing ... should save some time.

[popper]

Attachment 83851
41 gr. H4895, 26 rnds, from the AR 308. 2400+ fps, SD ~ 50 fps. Had a little trouble with the front bag, 1st 10 were sort of low and horiz. spread. second 16 were better. Didn't clean it from last outing but did put a protector in place of the FH. Yes, the one in the bull is from a jerk on the line.

[xacex]

Popper that looks better than the last set. I would be happy with that if I could get the same result in a 300 blackout with the 311410. I wish I could find some H4895, I have been out for almost a year. Red dot has been my friend during all of this.

[WiederladerTV]

I tried powder coating my bullets too and it works great but hell it took a lot of time. Maybe it's because my equipment I use to coate them...how Long does it take to coat 100 bullets this way popper?

[Smoke4320]

with a Harbor freight PC gun it takes about 2 minutes to coat the whatever baking time you use

me I preheat bare bullets for 10 minutes at 300... coat and cure for another 10 minutes at 300

[500MAG]

Glad to hear its working out for you guys. This forum have been quiet, so I thought people just moved on to other methods. PC have worked out great for me, I use it for all my pistol caliber. Here's a two part question I have for you guys. I've been sizing mine thru Lee Sizing dies before and after PC'ing them, do you guys size them at all? If you do, is it before or after PC'ing?

I do it before and after. I wasn't but some of the other guys suggest it's best for them. Takes no time at all on the after.

[popper]

xacex Yea, I had been using 335 but am about out so I switched. I have to stack 3 or 4 bags to keep the mag off the bench. Finally put the HG on a sloping bag and another against the left side of the HG so I could get comfortable elevation. That was the second tighter group. I know I shaved a couple when loading, those are the 'flyers'. I'll try some tweaking but with the mil brass it's pretty close to top end load. Now on to the 24" bbl.
WiederladerTV My coating rig takes longer than other OPs but for the performance it's worth it. I'm going to try the piglet method for plinkers in 30/30.

[Beagle333]

I'm going to try the piglet method for plinkers in 30/30.

I'm very interested in giving this a whirl as well.

[xacex]

I tried the pigglet method on several boolits from .225, to .50 and was unimpressed. The ES PC ease and appearance have spoiled me. My focus is on this method, and jigs to make it faster by doing more boolits at once. With hollowpoint the jigs are easy, and I can do 125 at a time in 20 minutes.

[bangerjim]

I tried the pigglet method on several boolits from .225, to .50 and was unimpressed. The ES PC ease and appearance have spoiled me. My focus is on this method, and jigs to make it faster by doing more boolits at once. With hollowpoint the jigs are easy, and I can do 125 at a time in 20 minutes.

Somewhere, buried on this massive (!) site, is a post by me several months ago of a very simple jig I use to coat GC'd 223's & 30's. Since they will not set up..... this works. I can't find it.............. so here goes:

Use Al roof flashing. Cut pieces to fit your oven racks. Use the approx. size HF gasket punch (in a set they have) to punch thru. Lay on medium hard wood (I use alder) and whack the punch. It forms a nice clean hole with a little flange on the back. Check the size with your GC'd boolit base. If too small, open up VERY slightly with a hand reamer until it fits tight. Lay out and punch all holes as you wish. Cover with non-stick Al foil and press the holes thru with your finger. Push your slugs in. Spray. Bake. Pop 'em out. Size and put on GC's.

Simple, easy, and very cost-effective! When you start getting a "flange" of coating at the base after a couple batches (3-4), use a new sheet of foil. If the holes get stretched out, tap them LIGHTLY on a piece of SOFT wood with a dowel to shrink a bit!

Perrrrrrty simple!


bangerjim

[fastglock]

Somewhere, buried on this massive (!) site, is a post by me several months ago of a very simple jig I use to coat GC'd 223's & 30's. Since they will not set up..... this works. I can't find it.............. so here goes:

Use Al roof flashing. Cut pieces to fit your oven racks. Use the approx. size HF gasket punch (in a set they have) to punch thru. Lay on medium hard wood (I use alder) and whack the punch. It forms a nice clean hole with a little flange on the back. Check the size with your GC'd boolit base. If too small, open up VERY slightly with a hand reamer until it fits tight. Lay out and punch all holes as you wish. Cover with non-stick Al foil and press the holes thru with your finger. Push your slugs in. Spray. Bake. Pop 'em out. Size and put on GC's.

Simple, easy, and very cost-effective! When you start getting a "flange" of coating at the base after a couple batches (3-4), use a new sheet of foil. If the holes get stretched out, tap them LIGHTLY on a piece of SOFT wood with a dowel to shrink a bit!

Perrrrrrty simple!


bangerjim

Bangerjim, does this jig leave the base or the nose left naked ? If coats the sides and base then Im gonna try it. You got a pic of the boolits in the jig by any chance? Thanks

[xacex]

Bangerjim, post your setup in the jig thread so we can see it out of this massive black-hole of powder coat information. I really think there should be a new subsection for coatings.

[Rangefinder]

I almost hate to say it, but you PC gun guys are really over-complicating things... My tumbler is my new best friend, AND I have total coverage (no bare bases or points, no fussy spray racks to muss over, ect...)



Just a little FYI--it's a single coat, and the darker color you see is NOT lead peaking through--it's the touch of graphite I add at the end for a little extra "slick". One coat does the whole job.

[fastglock]

I almost hate to say it, but you PC gun guys are really over-complicating things... My tumbler is my new best friend, AND I have total coverage (no bare bases or points, no fussy spray racks to muss over, ect...)



Just a little FYI--it's a single coat, and the darker color you see is NOT lead peaking through--it's the touch of graphite I add at the end for a little extra "slick". One coat does the whole job.

Oookay .... details please if you don't mind.

boolits tumbled with powder paint in a media tumbler (the one we use to clean our brass) ?
If so for how long? TGIC , EPOXY, HYBRID powder? Then baked on non stick aluminum foil? If handle by fingers after coating/before baking does some of the power rub off? Please do tell. .... I said please twice

[Smoke4320]

Yes I would love to know your method of using a tumbler to powdercoat and if it will hold up to rifle velocities
anything that will cut down on coating time and still do a good job I am all for it
Please give us step by step instructions PLEASE

[bangerjim]

Bangerjim, does this jig leave the base or the nose left naked ? If coats the sides and base then Im gonna try it. You got a pic of the boolits in the jig by any chance? Thanks

Just cleaned out my iPhone of old pix!

It leaves the GC'd base clean so you can pop the check on and then process it as you normally would. Works great. Sides, nose, grooves are totally coated...........only the recessed GC base is bare.

And the jig holds the slugs firmly in place so you do not have to dance around and juggle it to keep from knocking one over and playing dominoes!

banger

[a.squibload]

[QUOTE=Rangefinder;2425111]I almost hate to say it, but you PC gun guys are really over-complicating things... My tumbler is my new best friend, AND I have total coverage (no bare bases or points, no fussy spray racks to muss over, ect...) /QUOTE]

Yes details please?

I finally tried it using the "soapy hands" and "shake & bake"
methods, baked in a $10 Goodwill toaster oven. After a test
run I was able to get a blobby looking full coverage. They
look icky but sized OK. Coated some 215 44s, the grooves
and gas check step pretty much disappeared.
Can't believe they will have consistent aerodynamics.
Looks like I'm in the market for a HF spraygun, found a
coupon already. Unless Rangefinder's tumble method
proves worthy!

[bangerjim]

[QUOTE=a.squibload;2425476]

I almost hate to say it, but you PC gun guys are really over-complicating things... My tumbler is my new best friend, AND I have total coverage (no bare bases or points, no fussy spray racks to muss over, ect...) /QUOTE]

Yes details please?

I finally tries it using the "soapy hands" and "shake & bake"
methods, baked in a $10 Goodwill toaster oven. After a test
run I was able to get a blobby looking full coverage. They
look icky but sized OK. Coated some 215 44s, the grooves
and gas check step pretty much disappeared.
Can't believe they will have consistent aerodynamics.
Looks like I'm in the market for a HF spraygun, found a
coupon already. Unless Rangefinder's tumble method
proves worthy!

Another convert! Welcome to the world of ES gun PCing!

You will have great success.

bangerjim

[xacex]

I almost hate to say it, but you PC gun guys are really over-complicating things... My tumbler is my new best friend, AND I have total coverage (no bare bases or points, no fussy spray racks to muss over, ect...)

Spill the beans!

[Rangefinder]

All right guys, I'll do my best to get something worthy of posting for a play-by-play. But I gotta warn you in advance--it's my daughter's birthday this weekend, so time's a little short till the first of the week. No offense, but even an Obama pinata-party wouldn't be enough to compete with her attention for the next couple days. But I'll do what I can.