Paper Patch in Suppressors - Orifice size

[303Guy]

I'm about to fit new baffles in my Pig Gun suppressor and am wondering whether I should be using a larger oriface size to accommodate the patch coming off at the muzzle. Any experience or thoughts on this?

[Haggway]

You, have just touched on somthing I have been wanting to ask. I have no clue. My worries are the paper staying in the can. Mine is sealed. Do you have any thoughts on this. Cast seems to be ok though.

[HollowPoint]

I have absolutely no experience with suppressors but, I've dreamed of making my own. Included in those dreams have been questions along the same lines as the OP has asked. Not just with paper patches coming off in the suppressor but Gas-Checks as well.

In my minds-eye it's hard for me to picture the paper patch NOT getting lodged in the baffles of a suppressor; regardless of the design of the baffles.

If the first or the second patch gave no indication of obstruction in the suppressor, I'm fairly certain that any one of the following paper patched bullets fired would eventually usher in a catastrophe.

But; like I said, I have no hands on experience with suppressors. I wish I did though.

HollowPoint

[303Guy]

Well, I have been shooting paper patch through this suppressor but I lost the baffle group and did not make a drawing of it. Cotton wool wads did sometimes stay in the suppressor but I was using them as cleaning wads. The muzzle blast should clear out any loose debris, just as long as the boolit doesn't contact it. Not all baffle designs are equal and I'm sure some would collect debris like patch pieces and bits of wadding.

My real concern is patch pieces starting to come off just before the baffles and upsetting accuracy. I have seen a video of patch separation from the boolit and it seemed to take place some distance from the muzzle. Those were with a black powder gun. I have had patches staying on for some distance past the muzzle. It's the ones that come off at the muzzle that I'm worried about. I might just opt for a large clearance to be on the safe side. Unfortunately this suppressor is fixed on the gun and so will be the baffles. I could simply start again with an entirely new suppressor and then I could threat it internally for disassembly and modification.

I'm also wondering whether some of my accuracy issues were the patch contacting the baffles while still partially attached to the boolit or perhaps being forced between the baffle and boolit. That wouldn't be good for accuracy. But, I didn't notice any difference after the baffles were removed. The last time I tried it with a new load it produced wild vertical stringing which I put down to a badly fitting fore-wood. It only did that once before when the scope mount was loose.

[303Guy]

I should mention this suppressor is really short meaning all the baffles are close to the muzzle. There will be only two this time.

[HollowPoint]

I think I've seen the video you're referring to.

I'm not really that knowledgeable on silencer laws in other countries. 303Guy, are you making your own suppressors or do you buy them already made?

Also; if you make your own, are you required to register them with your local authorities?

HollowPoint

[Smoke4320]

as an SOT (class 3 dealer) I can answer this for you ..
If legal in your state to own a suppressor you can make your own.. First You MUST submit paperwork to the ATF along with the $200.00 tax stamp AND receive approval Stamp back BEFORE making and you CAN NOT have any extra baffles or tubes laying around..
its just like making an SBR..get approval first then make
easier to purchase a proven design

[barrabruce]

Dunno about suppressors or the video you referring too.

I have at a guess that you would have to start out with fluid dynamics.

The videos I have seen of patch separating from bullet seems to be forward of the initial blast plume and it appears that the shockwave tears it off once it catches up from exiting the muzzle.

OF course I an probably totally wrong.

Barra

[Harter66]

Smoke ,303 is in New Zealand . Supressers are hardware store shelf items there as I understand.

[303Guy]

Yup. Suppressors are legal here.

Well, I think I'll just give the baffles enough clearance to be safe and probably suffer less blast reduction. I'll likely start again with a remove-able suppressor.

[Artful]

If you held the blast baffle to closer tolerance and then openned the others a little more each as you increased the distance from the muzzle wouldn't that give you a safety factor?

[redneckdan]

I would run a larger baffle hole. A fair number of people run 9 mm cans on 300 whisper because that is the can they have. They are not a quiet as they could be but they are quiet enough.

I run paper patch through my 375jdj that has a JP tank brake. The patch separates well clear of the baffles.

[303Guy]

That's what I thought might happen. Well, to day I found a piece of alloy for the second baffle - the first is going to be stainless (or stainless lined). So, I'll go big enough followed by even bigger.

[Ehaver]

It was my thought that the round does not make contact with the baffles. If so, the paper should not get snagged in the supressor. Have you ever recovered a patch? if so, how far from the muzzle? Hope that helps...

[barrabruce]

HOw about putting a tube with the appropriate size horriface in it and mark the inside with some sort of indicator.

You could see after the first or few shots where the paper comes off or opens up to that diameter.

Then again it probably wouldn't work like that in real life anyways.

[303Guy]

The blast and jet going through the orifice blows it clean so I doubt any tell tale markings will remain.

Ehaver, I have indeed recovered patch fragments. I have a test tube I fire into. Sometimes the patch comes of as the boolit passes through the rag bungle over the catch medium and sometimes it fragments and collects on the rag bundle. It depends on the load.