Does anyone know what this guy uses to coat and color?

[Lights]

Would acetone work?

I do not know. Klass Kotes website said to use Lacquer thinner.

[Lights]

I got to the range today and shot 30 rounds of Klass Kote'd boollits from my 9mm. 15 rounds loaded with 4.7gr of Unique and 15 rounds of 5.0gr of Unique. OAL for the cartridge was 1.060". The barrel only had powder residue left in the it. I did not use any hbn in the paint. I showed the barrel to a fellow USPSA member that happen to be their and he could not believe it. It works as good as Hi-Tek bullet coating if you ask me. No more sticky lubes for this pistol shooter.

[OnceFired]

So net-net, what we're seeing here is a complete replacement for lube at a minimum, correct?

And, it has at least some properties of making the boolit behave as if jacketed, right? I think someone earlier in the thread asked about using this for 223 boolit jacket type purposes. Would that work?

Are there any downsides we haven't touched on? Chemicals under pressure and potentially on fire do tend to generate bad inhalants, etc.

What about when picking the lead back out of the range & re-smelting? As if that process needs to get any nastier. If it's holding the boolits together and preventing most of the lead mass splatter, that could be very helpful at increasing the volume of lead we can easily recycle.

OnceFired

[sly mantis]

What do you think of these:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en


http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...=1373599021894

Im in canada so id be spending about $50 for 1/2pint of paint and reducer and for that price i could get 120oz of this stuff.
I hear you can dye it with testors model paint, although i dont know if that would affect for use as a bullet coating?

[Lights]

I would try Armor Coat, it is a 2 part epoxy paint. I would just leave it gray.

[Lights]

Oncefired, Ther coating does not burn. And as far as resmelting is not a problem. The lead leaves the epoxy hull will be on top of your melt waiting for you to skim it out.

[prickett]

What do you think of these:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en


http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...=1373599021894

Im in canada so id be spending about $50 for 1/2pint of paint and reducer and for that price i could get 120oz of this stuff.
I hear you can dye it with testors model paint, although i dont know if that would affect for use as a bullet coating?

Sly,
I'm no expert on materials, but epoxy floor paint was mentioned as a valid source on some thread that I read. I'd say go for it.

[KAS]

Late to the party on this one. I'm not in the States but I've tried this method with some success using De Beers 2 part auto paint. I used a home cast Lee 356-125-2R made from air cooled wheel weights. Boolits drop at .360, 132 grains before coating.

Tumbled in De Beers gloss black (2-1 paint to hardener, as per instructions on the can), air dried, and baked at 220F. I was baking them for about 20 min at first but soon noticed they stopped smelling/fuming after 12-15 minutes, which is what I use now. Total of three coats. No BhN, Molybdenum, graphite, or any dry lube was used on the first batch. I also didn't bother to stand them up on their base for baking. Just used the same mesh I had air dried them on for baking, just gave it a shake to make sure none were stuck together or to the mesh. Still came out perfectly even and smooth.

2 coats is probably sufficient, 3 coats is just purdy. First coat should barely colour the boolets, subsequent coats can be thicker.

All pills sized very easily through .356 Lee sizing die. None of the coating scraped or flaked off, just became really smooth/shiny. Final weight was 133.5 grains consistently.

Loaded up 100 round with 3.8 grains of Universal, CCI small pistol primer, at 1.110 COAL. Accuracy was superb out of a standard Glock 17 with factory barrel. Didn't chrono. All rounds were right at point of aim with no smoke or funny smell to speak of.

A quick check of the barrel after 50 rounds showed a tiny smudge of lead in one of grooves near the muzzle. I pulled a loaded round and found the even though I had zero crimp (outside diameter was equal to boolit size + 2x case wall thickness) there was a ring around where the case mouth contacted the boolit. This ring went right down to bare lead in places. I pulled a second round which appeared to be in perfect condition.

As I wanted my testing to be consistent, I pulled the rest of the round and started again. Before reloading the second time I de-burred the inside of the case mouth. Several pulled rounds confirmed the coating was now completely intact. The new round performed very, very well. After running a clean, dry patch once through the bore, it was squeaky clean after 50 rounds. No lead. Success!

Never being one to leave well enough alone, I added some graphite powder to the mix, much more than shown in the video. I could tell the difference between these and the first batch, but it certainly didn't cause any problems. Only fired another 50.

On the third experiment, I decided to dust the boolits with graphite after their final tumble white they were still tacky (before final curing). They looked awesome with a black base coat and silvery gray outer film. I was sure I was onto a winner. I loaded up 300 round using my usual recipe.

The next weekend I shot a small local match, going through about 150 rounds. When I got home and pulled out the barrel, I was greeted with massive lead streak from chamber to muzzle! I thought "surely this is just residue from the paint or graphite?" Nope. Could get the stuff out. After getting a brass scourer down the bore I could clearly see little lead shavings/particles on the table.

I still have no idea what has gone wrong. I pulled some of the remaining rounds and they are all still well coated. Is the graphite interfering somehow? The boolits with the graphite on the outside don't feel as slick as the plain ones.

Maybe something is happening between 50 and 150 rounds that is causing the leading? My first and second tests only went up to 50.

I now plan to shoot the remaining 150 rounds this weekend and check the barrel after every stage. If I get leading from the get go, then the graphite is causing the problem. If the first 50 are clean, but I start to get lead from then on, then there is something else going on.

On a side not, I checked the comments on the YouTube video and Mr. Wiederlader states that the paint he is using is often applied to concrete floors.

[Newshooter]

Well here is what I ended up with. This the my first time casting pistol rounds and using klass kote. They turned out pretty good and they fired through my XDM just fine. I have only done fired 16 rounds just to do a test on leading and making sure my pistol would cycle. I have not done and accuracy test yet but that will be next. I put 2 coats on and I think that will be just fine. I did find that I could scratch off the coating if I tried hard. I also sized the bullets before I coated them and again after not sure why I decided to do that just did. I baked each coat for 25 minutes at 225°F. I thought I would put them on aluminum foil to save the cookie sheet but that was a bad idea. They stuck to the foil.

[bstone5]

NewShooter

Try This Foil

[KAS]

Got back from the range yesterday after putting 50+ rounds through the Glock 17. Again, these were triple coated in epoxy paint and lubed with fine graphite. An inspection of the barrel showed a huge amount of leading (came out is slivers).

I wonder if the final step of adding a little paste wax to the warm bullets would make a difference? I haven't done this on any of mine so far.



First picture is a before and after coating. Note: the coated bullet is pulled from a loaded round with coating intact and no change in diameter.

Second one was fired into water and recovered. Coating intact.

Not sure why I'm still getting leading. Any thoughts?

[Skip62]

KAS, that second picture is a FIRED round? I don't see where it's broken through at all, how could it lead? Mine cuts the through on the leading edge, and sometimes I have particles of lead, but not leading as in something you could see in the barrel without patching it.

[KAS]

KAS, that second picture is a FIRED round? I don't see where it's broken through at all, how could it lead? Mine cuts the through on the leading edge, and sometimes I have particles of lead, but not leading as in something you could see in the barrel without patching it.

Affirm Skip, fired into a drum of water. You can see a little flat spot and a "fin" at the rear where the rifling has stretched it out. You're right, it hasn't broken through at all (on this one).

I've used commercially coated (Hi-Tek) bullets that cut through the coating like your's, yet I get no leading with them.

Only thing I can think of is that there is some inconsistency between batches of bullets. Maybe some are cutting through or flaking off while others are completely intact like the second picture?

I suppose I'll just have to keep firing a bunch of them into water and see if this is the case. Definitely worth persevering with this if they can all perform like bullet in the second picture.

Forgot to mention, De Beers/Valspar auto paint is freely available in the US. After buying the paint and hardener I thought it was kind of steep price wise. After coating a few hundred rounds, I don't think I'll ever finish the can.

[Skip62]

I think you hit the nail on the head, inconsistent. If it doesn't break the skin to expose lead, it can't lead. Have fun shouting in to the barrel

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

[quasi]

I wonder what happens when you try to melt these boolits down after berm mining/ recovery?

[Lights]

I wonder what happens when you try to melt these boolits down after berm mining/ recovery?

The lead melts and the epoxy shell will be floating on top of the lead.

[Skip62]

The lead melts and the epoxy shell will be floating on top of the lead.

Yup, I've screwed up batches and smelled them back down, just like Lights said the shell floats on top

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

[Maximumbob54]

Scrolling through the Klass Kote webpages I don't see where it says you need to bake the finish to cure it. It says it requires and induction time and to add additional coats within 4 to 8 hours for chemical bond and then they are able to be handled after four hours but won't be fully cured until 4 to 7 days. Does the oven cooking just speed all this up?

What I'm reading:

http://www.klasskote.com/faq#Q5

[Skip62]

Scrolling through the Klass Kote webpages I don't see where it says you need to bake the finish to cure it. It says it requires and induction time and to add additional coats within 4 to 8 hours for chemical bond and then they are able to be handled after four hours but won't be fully cured until 4 to 7 days. Does the oven cooking just speed all this up?

What I'm reading:

http://www.klasskote.com/faq#Q5

Yup, just dries it enough to be able to add a second coat sooner.

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2

[popper]

KAS - I think you ran into the same problem as I did, using powder coated & WDd. Hard alloy expanded the case, which then snapped back in the lube groove, shaved all the coating from the front band. Couldn't tell the good from the bad. So far just happens in 40, not 30-30 or 308. I anneal those cases and they ar WDd. Only solution I see is to bell the mouth more.