I got a free toaster oven from the freecycle network here. Might wanna look one up in your area.
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"If the enemy is in range, so are you." - infantry journal
on the blue ones in an earlier post they look sprayed to me.
You are correct on everything you thought. I'm fairly pleased with my first attempt. Certainly will report back with a range report. This week I'm trying 100 wheel weight boolits. Next week, I hope to test soft lead. If Piglet Coat works with soft lead I'll be very happy.
Hey Piglet,
First, thanks for the great liquid coating method!
Second, I've finished my first coat and I think it turned out ok. I'm wondering about your technique, though. You say the first coat is very thin. How about the 2nd and 3rd coats? Are they the same as the first? Next time you coat, perhaps you could snap a photo of your three mixes (assuming they aren't all the same) that you could post for us.
Thanks!
Thanks for trying. Actually anybody who has thinned paint could have "invented" this mixture, so I do not think it was a big achievement.
All coats are very thin. I am using the same very thin mix for every coat and I store it in a glass jar.
The first coat should not look like much anything, very little color.
The second coat gives a little color.
The third coat gives enough color. Depending on the PC also.
If not, add a fourth coat.
Main thing is to keep the total thin. And remember to bake after each coat.
This PC/Acetone is nice because You do not need any separate hardener.
I might try someday even Phenolic resin, I have found a maybe suitable product and it comes with a hardener that works in about 150-200 degrees Celsius.
The company that makes this Epoxy-PC I am using, has many other PC:s too.
Even some with Silicone base and Polyurethane. This Polyurethane PC stretches a lot more than Epoxy and has much higher impact resistance too.
So maybe someday we will find a PC that works beautifully with rifle velocities too.
I am certain that such a PC exists somewhere.
Last edited by piglet; 06-01-2013 at 09:30 AM.
Interesting. My first coat was very thin, like you mentioned, it gave almost no color. Due to that I added more powder for the 2nd and 3rd coat to the point that they came out completely black. How do yours come out? Completely colored or more of a "stained" look (splotchy with some lead showing through)?
I guess the question I'm ultimately driving towards is: does the coating need to be completely concealing the lead? I would assume so, but your using light coats makes me question that. If I used the same light coat on passes 2 and 3 that I used on 1 I don't believe it'd completely conceal the lead. Even with my heavier 2nd and 3rd coat, there is the occasional section of lead showing.
Mine are completely covered after three coats.
I would not use thicker coats.
Try with three very thin coats, if You do not get enough color, add a fourth coat.
Actually I do not think some (very little) lead showing would matter, but it does not look good. Maybe.
A friend of mine is using different colors for each very thin coat.
His bullets look interesting.
Anything touching the bbl that is not coated will cause leading. Watch seating so you don't shave any off. After ~ 1500 rnds PC, I found it doesn't clean out any leading, rifle or pistol.do not think some (very little) lead showing would matter
Yeah, really watch the seating. Fix a little extra bell.
Which PC did You use and how many coats? Did You get leading from Your PC pistol- or riflebullets or both?
I have shot a couple thousand 9mm and .357 PC-bullets, WW-lead, no leading. Some bullets have not had fully painted grooves.
G'day All.
Well. interesting results today.
The 100 rounds 45ACP using a Lee 200SWC coated with 2 coats HI-TEK Supercoat worked fantastic. The bore was clean and the shots grouped very well at 20 yards from a standing position. Very little smoke.
The 100 rounds of 38Super using a Lee 125gr RN were also wearing 2 coats of HI-TEK Supercoat. again the bore was clean and no signs of leading. Accuracy was great and no issues.
The 40S&W loads were Lee 175gr FP with 2 coats of HI-TEK Supercoat. these were fired in a Glock 35 40S&W factory barrel. After 10 rounds the bore was leaded really bad. I fired another 10 rounds and stopped as the lead fouling was severe.
The alloy used was the same for all 3 different types of bullets.
Maybe the alloy was too soft for the 40cal (13BHN) MIght try again with water quenching of the 40 bullets to see of they harden up enough to work.
But... This is my first try. I am determined to keep trying and work it out.
I'h more than happy with the results for the 9mm and 45 pills. there are the main ones I use, So I will be concentrating on producing these.
I'll Update as I go along.
Thanks.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Range report:
Fired 100 rounds with Piglet Coat. Much less smoke. Left the gun cleaner than usual with no lube/carbon paste coating the feed ramp. Accuracy didn't seem any different than normal. No leading. I'm declaring Piglet Coat a winner!
I nominate Piglet for the lube innovator of the year.
Has anyone had any issues, with any of the coatings not sticking, due to contaminates like sprue plate lube? Do you have to wash the bullets with a detergent or degreasing agent? Not sure how much, if any lube might be on the base of a bullet. Since I normally use a lubra sizer, it has not been a concern, nor anything I have given thought to.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |