The other day I was loading up for a TC 54 Hawkins, I used a lubed felt wad over powder and when the patched RB was half way down barrel it stopped dead in it's tracks.So I used a ball puller and it came out easy.So what I'm thinking is air was trapped between felt and patched RB and I didn't have the strength to force it down.Any answer is welcome.
I have the same problem sometimes with my .75 Blunderbuss with a smooth barrel.
The ball pushes in , then I watch the ramrod push back up.
Sometimes my .61 rifles TC will do the same thing.
Especially if I seat an over powder wad first.
But make sure you don't have a Crud Ring in your barrel that is stopping the load.
I did have a barrel years ago that had a Ring in the barrel about 5" from the breech plug that allowed carbon to build up , and restrict the loading if I did not swab the barrel between shots.
Your lubed felt wad probably has bore butter or such on it. That causes nasty fouling many times. Did you check to see if maybe the previous wad was stuck in the barrel? If it as an air trap it wouldn't have stopped suddenly, it would have had push back
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Come to think about it sounded like a wine cork popping out when the RB came out.Had to be air lock.Only shot few times before it happened.No more goofy stuff going down the barrel.Powder and patched RB that's it!
I switched to a lubed patch as an over powder wad.
Just start the patch with your ball starter , then push it all the way down with the patched ball.
Helps seal better and you don't flame cut the patch around the ball.
Plus it going down the barrel doesn't catch as much air till it is fully seated against the powder.
Scrub bore with a dry bronze brush, before loadings. https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Shot-Cali.../dp/B008PL8J5E
Last edited by 243winxb; 02-23-2022 at 09:50 PM.
That isn't normal at all. The only way that can happen is if your nipple (or touch hole) is plugged solid. felt wads and powder do not stop air at all.
I don't know what the proper procedure is, but I removed my nipple when I have had a tough to load projectile to eliminate the question of airlock. I agree that the load should have "bounced" if it was air locked, but sometimes that is subtle enough that it can be difficult to tell.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Be careful with this, if the brush fits tightly the bristles will not want to reverse direction while trying to pull back out. Could be a chore to get it unstuck.Originally Posted by 243winxb
CAREFUL GUYS!!! if you getting an air lock and you keep pushing it you are looking at a possible diesel ignition in the barrel as you ram the load - all it takes is a bit of oil and you lose a hand. air should should not be trapped it should vent out through the nipple - are you loading with the old dead cap on the nipple? - thats a no no but seen a lot of fellers do it - remove the old cap and make sure the nipple is clear is first step in the process. I have seen a blokes hand after one of those suspect pre-ignitions and it aint pretty!
thats a sure way to get a brush stuck in a muzzleloader
You guys are very knowledgeable, Now I know some of the possible causes of a air lock in percussion gun.
If you don't have one, buy a drop in bore light or a cheap endoscope from Amazon. That way you can visually check and make sure there is not a problem in the barrel. You can get the endoscopes for between $15.00 and $25.00 that will hook up to a phone or computer.
A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.
yes!
I wonder did you (and others) GET how absolutely catastrophically dangerous that airlock can be ??????
Getting a brush stuck in any rifle is possible. I now measure a new brush diameter. Had one start hard in my 243 Win Rem 40XB. Tried to pull it back out. No go. Had to push all the way thru. Bent my steel rod.
I J
I often wondered if the powder could go off.
That is why I drilled a 1/16" hole in my .75 cal fiber wads for my Blunderbuss to help release the air when loading
Need to twist the brush clock wise before attempting to pull out so the bristles change direction and you aren't pulling again
Aim small, miss small!
I have had the compressed air in barrel issue before though I don`t use a felt wad. The fix has been as simple as having the lock on half cock when loading and no nipple(of course).
My Blunderbuss is a flintlock.
That is the gun I have the most air compression issues with.
So there is no cap to remove , and placing the hammer on half cock doesn't do anything.
I mostly use the 1/2" lubed fiber over powder wad for shooting buck shot.
They seal really good as they go down the bore.
Drilling that tiny hole allows the air to escape , but doesn't effect the sealing when the shot is fired.
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote