Gunsmith cost

[jim 44-40]

Why I need 2 threaded holes on muzzleloader is that when I picked up a TC Hawkins 45 cal. barrel with 1-66 twist it came with a 4 power brass scope 33 inch long mounted . Problem is someone put the front base to far forward and I can't move scope back enough for better eye relief.Just had a idea might work. Since the holes are already there I think I'll make a base that I can attach the original base to and screw the old to new.Just need to get scope a few inches rearwards.

[Bent Ramrod]

I drilled and tapped four holes in the barrel of my brand-new Shiloh Sharps for blocks for my new MVA scope.

I’d found most of a Forster sight fixture at a Gun Show, made up the necessary bushings, leveled my drill press table, played around with the depth stop so I was sure I knew how to use it, established top-dead-center and leveled the tapered barrel in the fixture, and ground the ends of a spare drill and a tap so that the bottom of each hole I drilled would finish dead flat and the thread would go all the way to the flat bottom. I made a 60 degree center to go in the drill chuck and had found a teeny Starrett tap wrench, maybe 3” long, and used it to ensure that I could feel the tap stop at the bottom of the hole, and not break it. I started the taps in the chuck, then switched to the center and tap wrench to keep the threads straight.

Just for make-sure, I used each scope block as an auxiliary fixture, screwing it down in the first drilled and tapped hole, straightening it along the barrel, and making sure the calculated and built-in spacing on the Forster was really right. Then I did the second hole, through the hole in the block. Then the first hole for the second block, and the second the same way.

If this sounds like excruciating detail, that’s because it was. It took most of a day to do, a day of near-to-screaming nervous tension. But my eyes weren’t bad when I’d bought the rifle, so I didn’t have Shiloh do it, and the gunsmiths around here only know how to mate “uppers” with “lowers.” At least I’d have only myself to blame if it came out wrong. I figured no matter how much time it took, if it was right, I’d spend a lot more time shooting the rifle afterwards. And so it worked out.

But if somebody had offered me $100 to do four holes on their barrel, they’d have gotten my Harry Pope impersonation when he heard somebody say “I want it now.” Slowly, I turned, and step by step, inch by inch...

I’d be suspicious of anyone who charged $25 for a hole, but interested enough to ask for references from previous customers. I can’t figure how people can make a living doing gunsmithing work.

[waksupi]

Not that this has to do with the op ...

I for one have gotten tired of people and how cheap they can be , I guess its ok they go to work and get paid a fair wage for their time but then they don't want me to be able to earn a fair wage for my time when they want me to make or repair something for them .

So now when someone quibbles about the price I give them an oppertunity to show me their paycheck and pay me the exact same wage they earn per hour , cost of materials , plus 33% for the overhead and machines or walk back out the door .

I've done the exact same thing.

[Winger Ed.]

When I drilled and tapped for a scope mount on a unfired 03-A3.
I never got a price from a gunsmith, I just wanted to do it myself.

I spent right at $50. for the correct drill bit and the two taps from Brownell's.
Then counselled with a old, retired master machinist that had done lots and lots of them back in the 50s & 60s.
I'm not sure how long it took, but it was most of an afternoon.

The mount holes came out perfect.
When people asked about it, I told 'em I did it myself for free.

[Geezer in NH]

Cheap! not only pay him that but give him a bottle of his favorite adult beverage.

[country gent]

What irks me is when guys show up wanting something fixed ( almost always start with I cant fix this item can you) Then expect to stand over me telling me what I have to do. One old guy here shows up here occasionally ( he was a neighbor growing up) figuring $5.00 an hour is still a fair wage.

[Winger Ed.]

Then expect to stand over me telling me what I have to do. .

A long time friend that was our local gunsmith had a bunch of regular customers he'd accommodate better than I ever would have.
But there were others too.....

It didn't matter what they brought in, it was going to be between two and six weeks before he could get it back to them.
His price quotes to them were, "I'm not sure, but it hopefully won't be more than ____".

[Blue2]

Almost 40 years ago I was visiting a gunsmith friend who worked out of a major sporting goods store . A customer asked what the cost was to drill and tap four scope mounting screws in his rifle. He was quoted $50.00 . That's over $10.00 a hole !!! Well how would $2.00 a hole sound ? Great says the customer Well at two dollars a hole I just put them in anywhere but if you want them in the correct location its a fifty dollar job .

[jim 44-40]

That's a good one, I have not been to a gunsmith shop just saw a list on the Sportsman's website.

[country gent]

My one lathe and the mill I have power drawing for 3 sources when they are running the phase converter, the machine and the read outs. Then the air compressor lights and other assorted tools. Heat and air also. It a medium sized shop 20' x 30' but it dost take much welding to need a door open and a fan to keep smoke down. The vertical cut off saw needs air for the power feed so 2 draws there also.

Then theres all the tooling to make the machines work, normally when your up nd going the tooling cost more than the machines. mill vises, rotary tables, dividing heads, clamps boring heads, drilll chucks and collets. The lathes chucks collets steady rest, follower rest, tool post and holders, bed stops, drill chucks radius attachments, tool post grinders. The surface grinder magnetic chuck, vise, sine bars and plates, spin fixtures, dressers. Then there are the cabinets to store all of this tooling. The tooling used with them all like drill bits ( price a 1-2" number 3 moarse taper drill bit sometime). center drills end mills cutting tools boring bars. Then there are the consumables like lay out ink, cutting oils, oils for the machines, saw blades, nuts bolts washers, Stock ( I have yet to have anyone bring the material with them to fix their "favor".

The other that I really like is they will bring a part from a tractor or piece of equipment wanting a bearing journal sleeved and it still had 20 years of grease and crud on it. Come on make a trip to the local car was and at least wash it off before bringing it over.

One of the worst is the township. Wanted a cylinder for the back hoe repaired brought it over half full of oil still dirty no parts, I quoted a price the jerk told me it was to high and by zoning I couldnt charge and "run a buisness", So I replied take it to Swanton welding and let them do it. Paul gave him a qoute more than double what mine was.

I have no problem telling some of these guys Take and do it in your shop and see what it costs you. WHen Im done its right you dont cut your hands handling it and its got the paint touched up if needed.

Most dont realize the cost of equipment to just drill a hole.

[remy3424]

Maybe be if $25 is too much, I have a Leupold scout design scope, maybe a 6" relief, $100 might buy it...now the $25 seems cheaper yet. If I had the tools and skills I wouldn't do it for $25, guessing it isn't a 10 minute job.

[country gent]

It takes me longer than that to check the head on the mill to be square and check the vise to be parallel. Before I even start setting it up. then it os getting the barreled action set up and timed in. find the location of the rear block in the action ( this is zero point for all the holes rear 2 are +/_ and front 2 are center length of the blocks - or plus half hole spacing) This way if I have to recatch a hole for some reason its easier. By the time I spot drill, double check, drill, chamfer and tap its better than an hour. this dosnt include the clean up before and after, sharpening drills if needed, or any prep work on the bases if needed. The external adjust scopes the ring spacing is critical and my way gives the 7.2 or 14" or 17" spacing needed easily.

As its the easiest on a 17" block spacing with 3/4" hole centers the 1st hole is -.375 the second is +.375 the 3rd is 16.625 and the 4th is 17.375 on the read out. A spot drill all 4 then check with a scale and the blocks. then drill all 4 then flat drill to depth, chamfer lightly and then tap using the mills spindle and drill chuck as a tap guide to start the tap dead straight, then tap to depth with a bottom tap. Then the clean up of cutting fluids and chips making sure each and every hole is clear and burr free.

forease of counting turns when I have to the zero and its line are filled with red paint all others black. this way when the 0 mark comes around it stands out.