How to keep this old pot working?

[gwrench]

I have a newbie question. Any suggestions from you all on how to keep a Lyman Mould Master XX working in the long term? I bought it last year off Craigslist.

I've read that this is an old, obsolete pot but it works really well. Should it be cleaned once in a while? run it full or halfway?

I read a suggestion somewhere to leave some lead to cool in the pot when done, and I've done that lately. Any pros or cons to doing that?

I couldn't find a sticky on the subject.

Thanks

[HP9MM]

Leaving lead from the last casting in the pot will speed up the melting process for your next bullets. I do it all the time and there is nothing negative unless you want to change your alloy then it is just a slow down in your process.

[rancher1913]

ace hardware has a replacement cord usually in stock, use a pid for temp control and that pot should be good to go for a lot more years.

[jsizemore]

I use one in my regular pot rotation. I use a PID for temp control. I had to replace the internal wire and connectors. Use wire and connectors rated for hi-temp/self cleaning oven use. I make sure my alloy is clean, clean, clean before it goes in there because there are no parts available. I put a bit of silver anti-seize on all screws, bolts and nuts. Works on molds too. If the pot is pouring good, don't mess with it. It's a great pot. Enjoy.

[georgerkahn]

I use one in my regular pot rotation. I use a PID for temp control. I had to replace the internal wire and connectors. Use wire and connectors rated for hi-temp/self cleaning oven use. I make sure my alloy is clean, clean, clean before it goes in there because there are no parts available. I put a bit of silver anti-seize on all screws, bolts and nuts. Works on molds too. If the pot is pouring good, don't mess with it. It's a great pot. Enjoy.

PRECISELY as jsizemore aptly wrote! I have three of these in regular use, and the two "faults" on all three of mine include: 1/The thermostat is simply a set of points opened/closed by bimetalic strip movement, and on all of mine have failed -- oxidation, etc. on them. Solution? I wired past (before) said thermostat, so it is out of the circuit, and wired to the AC cord -- which now plugs into a PID. The cordset plug going into an Eisenglas (mica) socket was/is the 2nd fault. Solution? I totally eliminated plug/socket, by using G E electric percolator cords with the female plug cut off, directly connected to the wires going to the heating element. I was not pleased with soldering these, so -- on all three -- I cut head off of.22 rimfire cases, and used crimping pliers to make the connections. I then "painted" -- three coats -- connections with Devcon brand hi-temp epoxy as an electrical insulator, and "never looked back". I must have 10+ years on the one I use most frequently, and have never had any issues from any, since. I do not just "leave" the alloy in the pot, but actually add ingots which I melt in when done casting to allllmost fill it. And, as others indicated, when alloy is melted for next use -- flux, flux, and flux. (I use red wax from cheese balls and pine sawdust from beneath my table saw for the most part; MarveLux (not my favourite) for my desperation fluxer, even though I know it removes tin...)
BEST -- the MouldMasters, indeed, were/are great!
geo

[gwrench]

Thanks for the insights!

Based on your comments I will use something else for smelting wheelweights. I'll keep using this as the "good" pot.

[GregLaROCHE]

Thanks for the insights!

Based on your comments I will use something else for smelting wheelweights. I'll keep using this as the "good" pot.

For melting wheel weights or other lead to make ingots, you should do it in an old Dutch oven or cast iron skillet on a heat source. Most people use propane burners, but any heat source will work. Don’t use a boolit casting pot.

[wv109323]

I had one for about 40 years. My problems were the bakelite board where the power cord plugs into the male prongs. The thermostat will eventually oxidize and break. The wire terminals will loosen and burn off. Heat and time will destroy all the wire terminals.
To avoid these problems, I got rid of all the OEM wiring.
I wired a male plug in and wiring directly to the heating element with a ground. I plug this into a female plug out of a PID. No more problems. The PID will keep alloy temps within 10 degrees and make casting a lot more consistent. A PID and a hot plate to preheat your molds will tahe your casting to the next level.