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Thread: Frosty and shiny on same boolits.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Frosty and shiny on same boolits.

    So last nite cast about 600 .312 155gr 6 cavity mold 5lb super hard 12lb pure.
    Mix is approx. Pot temp about 650.
    Boolits cast very nice but some all shinny some all frosty and some mix.
    All I can think is my mix not well mixed or mold temp. It's not a function problem I just like all the same.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    I think your mold went over-temp. if your pot temp. is correct.

    Did you actually measure the pot temp. or use a PID control?

    It makes it hard to estimate problems without empirical measurements...
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    I think sometimes a part of the mold can be hotter. Middle cavities versus end cavities, or middle of mold vs bottom of mold (drive bands vs nose of boolit ). That and mold temp and pot temp are right at that temp between shiny and frosty.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Lee 6 cavity Aluminum mold?

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Normal for Al moulds and rifle boolits. You could slow down to make them shiny all the way. Don't have any idea why you want that much Sb in your alloy. 1.5# S.H. should give you COWW.
    Whatever!

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Phlier's Avatar
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    You need a bit of tin in that mix, especially with that much antimony. Adding tin increases the lead's ability to keep antimony dissolved into the alloy. But yeah, that's a lot more antimony than what you need. With that much antimony (and no tin), you'll get frosty boolits at a lower mold temp than you'd normally start getting them at, especially with no tin. You're running 8.38% antimony. That's a lot.

    If you only read a couple of pages of From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide for Handguns, make it the section on bullet alloys. It starts on page 27: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf

    Here's a very user friendly alloy calculator: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...#gid=808458930 To use it, put the weight of each metal type in the appropriate boxes, then read the results at the bottom. The results will show the percentages of tin, antimony, and lead.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master Oklahoma Rebel's Avatar
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    you could add 1/3 the weight in pure lead+ 2% tin.. maybe 3% and still have very hard boolits that would work well in any rifle. those u have now will shatter and crumble when they hit something
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  8. #8
    Banned

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    I look for that light frosting in the center of some of my aluminum molds.
    with my accurate 165-A I want that light frost color on the middle of the boolit, seeing that tells me I am holding my mold temp in a consistent window.
    it's also the point between breaking out the sprue cut, and getting a nub.

  9. #9
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    RogerDat's Avatar
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    Aside from the unusually hard alloy you have making a difference, for my casting and alloy I try for right at the edge of frosty. So some are mostly shiny and some are a bit more frosty. Most molds this point in mold temperature seems to produce good bullets.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

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  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    So this is me second big casting and still twerking the mix may be a bit hard next go around lil less antimony. And still working temps out using a thermometer.

  11. #11
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    the visual clue from the mold is all you need to know.
    your alloy can be 625 or 770 and you can get the same exact results from your mold.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I have no issue with mildly frosty, nor do I have much of one with shiny and bright, but mixed boolits often are a bit undersized in the middle where the blocks have become a bit too hot. Super frosty will very likely be small, shoot poorly and lead like crazy. I have the T-shirt.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check