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Thread: .54 cal inline patched RB powder load

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just got back a little bit ago from the range; tried powder charges from 70 grains to 125, and none of them are consistent.
    The issue from here is that I'm hoping that I can get either some of the sabots or conical bullets before the season starts; work has been slow, and I'm on a long waiting list for a disability hearing, so money is tight.
    That raises the question of whether I'm pushing the limits of the firearm by running 140 grains of Ffg equivalent down what is a modern inline. If I'm risking a kaboom, then I may wind up skipping the muzzy season altogether this year. I do recall seeing online that modern inlines should have no problem with 100-150 grains of Ffg, I think off of Chuck Hawks' site? If I'm not risking a kaboom, then I'll be using a lot of powder, but it will certainly do the job if I can't afford to pick up sabots or conicals to experiment with before the season starts in two weeks.
    "Indeed the safest road to Hell is the gradual one--the gentle slope, soft underfoot, without sudden turnings, without milestones, without signposts.." - C.S. Lewis, The Screwtape Letters

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Might try a card wad or something over the powder to take the place of the solids that are providing protection to the patch.

    This might sound goofy but it might work with lighter charges. At 140 grains that large of a charge of powder might be at the point where the unburned mass is a shield (almost like cream of wheat) just long enough to make the difference it needs. Maybe with lighter charges you could achieve the shielding in another manner.
    Not saying I'm right about this but just that it's worth looking at.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    I think good cheer is right. With a round ball the weight of the total charge is so light that a full strength 209 is pushing the charge before ignition.
    I think that's why consistency improves with such a heavy powder charge. But the tail is waging the dog. Some things I'd try. For prb I'd try a muzzle loader specific primer If that works that would be easiest. Conicals or sabbots May shoot best in your gun. I had 325 gr speer 50 AE bullet shooting good with 120 gr pyrodex. Lee REAL boolits have been OK. Buying this and that to give it a try could be expensive. Don't want to see any one skip Muzzle loader season because money is tight. I think I've still got a real mold I could lend you. I could send a hand full of bullets and sabbots to try. I bet others could too let us know if we can help.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    Right now I'll try just about anything. Last time I took a deer with this gun was a couple of years ago, he was only 30 yards away, and even then, I aimed for his chest but hit him in the neck. The kill was still good, since the ball went through his jugular and he bled out in seconds, but I think at that point I was dealing with not just the wrong powder load, but a broken scope.
    "Indeed the safest road to Hell is the gradual one--the gentle slope, soft underfoot, without sudden turnings, without milestones, without signposts.." - C.S. Lewis, The Screwtape Letters

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just talked to one of my local FFLs, and he may have some leftover sabots for the .54. If he does, then I'll at least be able to test the thing out and see if I can get decent groups.
    Hopefully I'll know for sure tonight if he has them, and try them out tomorrow.
    He's also checking another local gun shop to see if they happen to have an 54 caliber supplies; it's kind of off the beaten path, but if they have what I need, it's certainly worth checking out.
    "Indeed the safest road to Hell is the gradual one--the gentle slope, soft underfoot, without sudden turnings, without milestones, without signposts.." - C.S. Lewis, The Screwtape Letters

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well, I think I got it fixed. Today I went out to the range with some thicker patches (.014 compressed rather than .011). I almost had to break into the range, as the front gate lock was iced over, but a run into town for some windshield washer fluid fixed the frozen lock.
    At that point, I was running close to the end of allowed shooting hours, so I pulled one of the tables out at around 55-60 yards, and loaded the gun up with 100 grains of Pyrodex, along with my PRB, only difference being the patch thickness.
    I trained my scope on the bullseye of a target that was left behind by someone else, and pulled the trigger. I had to actually walk up to the target to confirm that, yes, the ball had gone right through the bullseye without me having to make adjustments to the scope. Went back to the bench, loaded up another 100 grains of powder, and once again, hit the bullseye.
    At that point, shooting time was over, but I'll say I'm impressed. Just a difference of .003 inches in patch thickness was enough to get consistency. I may even be able to use less than 100 grains of powder, but for now, I'm going to run with what works; I'm not going to have many deer beyond 50 yards anyway where I tend to hunt.
    "Indeed the safest road to Hell is the gradual one--the gentle slope, soft underfoot, without sudden turnings, without milestones, without signposts.." - C.S. Lewis, The Screwtape Letters

  7. #27
    Banned
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    Always pick up your patches and inspect them for tears/holes. Its the gas seal and if its not sealed, accuracy isn't going to be that great.

    1:48 twist is a great twist for patched round ball, 70-80-90gr Goex 2f or Olde Eynsford 2fg and Jim Shockeys Gold are my standard charges for target shooting and hunting.

    Patch material is key. Normally in my CVA & Traditions sidehammers, .018 to .020" patch thickness is perfect with a .490 round ball.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I've used 0.015-016" patches and these take a little effort to seat with a short starter. My bore is supposedly about 0.502", but I've not cared to check it.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Most fast twist ML rifles, will only shoot PRB's at low charges. The heavier charges causes stripping/jetting of gases by the patch, and bad accuracy follows. Usually about 40-50 grains should make it shoot good.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check