My father, born in 1913, had a shotgun as a youngster and used Vaseline to prevent rust. Searching Google revealed differing opinions, but nobody said that it didn't work. I'd like to see other forum members opinions and experience using V to prevent rust. What about lubricant properties of this substance?
As a grease and a rust preventative it'll work, though it gets a little stiff in cold weather. As a petroleum-based product I don't think you'd want to get it on the wood. Some people have said it can attack bluing and case hardening but I can't verify that.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
There are better greases, but if that is all you have, it will work.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
When I called Lee Precision to ask what they reccomended to put on dies as preservative....Vaseline was the answer
I believe vaseline would do okay as a rust preservative as a lubricant for some things it should do well. A light even coat would be even to apply and stay put for a long time. It does dry out abd harden over time though. It has been a base for bullet lubes and case lubes over time and also some other uses. I dont see why it wouldnt work but also testing on a small area to see effects on blueing and finishes would be called for also
I remember seeing that the formula has changed from when your grandfather used it.
.
AND, when you shoot a Vaseline lubed gun, the odor'll help with your cold/sniffles..................
.
Any excuse to get to the range is a good excuse!Originally Posted by pietro
.
AND, when you shoot a Vaseline lubed gun, the odor'll help with your cold/sniffles..................
.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
RIG rust inhibitive grease
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleanin...prod31842.aspx
.
AND, when you shoot a Vaseline lubed gun, the odor'll help with your cold/sniffles..................
.
hmmmm sounds like Vicks might be better for that. I am sure someone has tried it LOL
That's the same year my father was born, and back then, and particularly during the Great Depression, they did a LOT of things that there's simply no reason to do now. I think if we'd have lived in those times, we'd probably be a LOT more grateful for the plenty of things we have now vs. then. Gun clening/preservatives are just one item on that long list.
Personally, for the cost of a small container of purpose-made rust inhibitor such as RIG, I wouldn't take a chance on the "maybe-maybe not" effectiveness of vaseline. The "good old days" weren't really all that good.
Vaseline is a brand name, owned by Unilever, but my guess is that it is made by lots of people in different countries, and its imitators certainly are. Pure Vaseline should be a safe and effective rust preventer, though not as good as various products made for that purpose. It wipes off more easily than some. But it is mostly sold for cosmetic and medical purposes and there is no telling what additives it may sometimes have.
Like a lot of materials and tools shooters and reloaders find useful, it is only guaranteed for its stated or reasonably assumed purpose, and the protection of steel is not it.
My question would be why? Sure it will help prevent rust, just as about any other petroleum grease will, but like most other grease products it prevents rust only by sealing out the oxygen and moisture and has no special rust fighting attributes beyond that. Break that seal by rubbing it off and you have an unprotected rust prone surface and Vaseline is not particularly good in this respect.
The bottom line is yes it *will work* but there are a great many cheap and easy to get products out there that will work a heck of a lot better so again I would have to ask why use a so-so product when it's just as cheap and easy to do a whole lot better?
Statistics show that criminals commit fewer crimes after they have been shot
Cosmoline, anyone?
We had a guy in my civil war reenacting group that used to tell the new guys that you want to use Vaseline to keep water out of the barrel channel of your musket. One guy believed him and did it and I had to trade muskets with him because of mechanical problems he was having.when the Vaseline got hot from firing blanks that stuff went everywhere and I wound up with a couple of bad burns on my wrist. There are plenty of better gun lubricants out there than Vaseline.
When I bought my Brno .22 for a hard scraped-together £30 ten shillings and sixpence in 1968, I treated the barrel channel with mucilin, a waterproofing compound for making fly-fishing lines float on the surface film of water. I doubt if it is much but silicone grease, and it is still where it was put, with the lower surface of the barrel unrusted.
If You're looking for a good water repellent, go by a plumbing distributor and pick up a 1/2 ounce of Hervey's silicone grease, and use it very..very sparingly. If one gobs it on it will ruin his whole day, I got some on my hands, which got on my steering wheel, and it took forever to wear it off.
Please, let us not cornfuze petroleum jelly with naval jelly or Kentucky jelly!
A bear, however hard he tries, grows tubby without exercise.
Another method to protect a rifle was to varnish the entire thing, metal and all. I have come across two such "guns". A trapdoor that a friend bought and stripped it all off, should have left it, and my father inlaws remington double barrel.
They did it then but there are better ways and better greases. ie Rig.
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote