2 cycle synthetic and beeswax

[smokesahoy]

So I've been working my search skills and doing lots of reading and I ran across this recipe. To anyone else new looking for a lube without a ton of ingredients try this out: 3 parts beeswax 1 part synthetic 2 cycle. I happened to also have a quart of homelite for wood season sitting around so I used that. Works perfect just melt and mix. No fuss recipe that works great.

It's a nice firm lube that works great and is really no more tacky when dry than beeswax. I think I'll be using this going forward and use my previous experiments as flux.

[smokesahoy]

I was thinking of adding moly powder to the mix for bore conditioning without changing the lube as it is now so didn't want to use another grease that had it as an additive. In a 10 ounce mix how much powder should I add as a starting point? And where does one get the straight powder locally? Are there any store chains that stock it routinely or is this an internet only type of thing? Thanks!

[btroj]

The moly powder won't help in reality and too much can cause issues. I would leave the moly out.

[smokesahoy]

OK, thank you for the advice. It's so hard to accept something so simple can be so good, I've been reading now for the last few days (literally, work is slow and all night) and the only ingredient not found in the various lube recipes was eye of newt.

Hehe I'll leave it alone, thank you.

[Springfield]

Nothing new about that, I've been running 9 parts BW, 6 parts soft paraffin and 3 parts 2 stroke oil for the last 5 years in my BP bullets.

[smokesahoy]

I'm sorry, I hope it doesn't look like I'm claiming to have invented this. I just reposted this after searching all over this site and others following a trail of crumbs.

This was just posted in one format that wasn't a trail of comments made across numerous many page threads for other newbies such as myself who want to make their own lube without hassle or mess just by going out to the garage and grabbing something that is already there and repurposing it to suit something else.

So nothing new to you guys, but so far it's just mentioned in side comments in other threads.

Mine is red though because that is what color I had laying around.

So yeah I claim nothing to do with this fine product. Just a courtesy to others to save them from making too much flux.

[Tech2]

This is where I get my dry lube.
https://www.bulletcoatings.com/xcart...cat=249&page=1
I use a little HBN as a barrier so that any fowling will have a difficult time bonding to the bore.

[Good Cheer]

I'm sorry, I hope it doesn't look like I'm claiming to have invented this. I just reposted this after searching all over this site and others following a trail of crumbs.

This was just posted in one format that wasn't a trail of comments made across numerous many page threads for other newbies such as myself who want to make their own lube without hassle or mess just by going out to the garage and grabbing something that is already there and repurposing it to suit something else.

So nothing new to you guys, but so far it's just mentioned in side comments in other threads.

Mine is red though because that is what color I had laying around.

So yeah I claim nothing to do with this fine product. Just a courtesy to others to save them from making too much flux.

Heh heh. No sir, didn't appear as though you were claiming to have invented the formula. It was an interseine rejoinder.

[geargnasher]

Ken started a recipe thread, but after about the second page it went to hell. Too many wannabe lube cooks throwing something up there that they've never even put through a gun just to get their name in print. Sorry the Speed Green recipe by Bullshop got lost in the fray.

Gear

[shredder]

Ken started a recipe thread, but after about the second page it went to hell. Too many wannabe lube cooks throwing something up there that they've never even put through a gun just to get their name in print. Sorry the Speed Green recipe by Bullshop got lost in the fray.

Gear

Speed Green is my "go to" lube for rifle. I do it 50/50 bullshop sprue plate lube and beeswax. Tacky yes, excellent under all conditions that i can throw at it, yes. It would not surprise me to get similar resuts with 2 stroke synthetic. I just happen to love bullshop sprue plate lube.

I also lube by hand. I first run my boolits through a push through lee sizer with a light coat of Imperial sizining die wax. The tiniest wipe will do. This allows the gas check to get crimped on without pushing lube underneath which seems to happen lots if I try it all at once.

After I have a batch of sized gas checked boolits I apply the speed green and run them through again. It really takes very little time to do and I enjoy fussing and fiddling over things so it suits me just fine to lavish indiviual attention on my boolits. I expect so much from them , why not put in a bit of time to make them as perfect as I can?

[waksupi]

Looks like my post from last night disappeared. I find moly to be too slick for cast bullets. Erratic velocity, pressures, and accuracy. Used Goop hand cleaner to get it out of my barrels, and it will never go there again.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

So I've been working my search skills and doing lots of reading and I ran across this recipe. To anyone else new looking for a lube without a ton of ingredients try this out: 3 parts beeswax 1 part synthetic 2 cycle. I happened to also have a quart of homelite for wood season sitting around so I used that. Works perfect just melt and mix. No fuss recipe that works great.

It's a nice firm lube that works great and is really no more tacky when dry than beeswax. I think I'll be using this going forward and use my previous experiments as flux.

I, like you, first found what is basically Bullshops "speed green" recipe and thought, How simple. I had used Speed Green made by Bullshop and found it to be too lacky once it's applied...that's when I tried adding an ingredient or two, suggested by some members here, to reduce the tackiness.

Also, I've found that depending on which oil you use, you may need to modify the 3 parts to 1 part formula. I used Amsoil Dominator for it's low smoke claims, but it is a very slick lube, I'd get lube purging flyers about 1 in every 5 shots. I lightened the Dominator content and added some Lanolin and the reduced JPW for it's carnuba content...a small amount of Raw carnuba flakes (maybe 1/2oz) could easily replace the JPW in my recipe.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post1191534

Since I made this first batch and dealt with the mess, I've decided to let the experts make lube for me. randyrat's Tak#1 is very similar to this recipe, and functions very good for most of my shooting and flows through a lubesizer as good as any...and isn't too tacky, plus he forms it into hollow tubes for my lubesizer.

Also, I am very fond of Bullshop's "Lotak" for rifle boolits that will get driven faster than most of the plinker loads I shoot.

[Viper225]

I went looking for some Full Synthetic Two Cycle the other day. I found Lucas at both auto parts stores, the problem with it is it is a Synthetic Blend.
Where I finally found it was at a Stihl Dealer who sells lots of weed eaters and other yard use products besides "logging chain saws". Using Stihl Full Synthetic extends the Stihl Warranty.

Bob

[runfiverun]

simple lube does just fine and is simple to make.
it contains the 2 stroke you wanna use.

[geargnasher]

While I'm still convinced that synthetic is the way to go, I still couldn't tell anyone how to make it work reliably unless they made Speed Green with it. Stick with more "conventional" two-stroke oils if you add anything to it other than beeswax. Simple Lube simply works, so does Ben's Red and the old NRA formula of equal Beeswax, Vaseline, and paraffin wax. Throw any synthetics in any of those and things get weird.

Gear

[Recluse]

While I'm still convinced that synthetic is the way to go, I still couldn't tell anyone how to make it work reliably unless they made Speed Green with it. Stick with more "conventional" two-stroke oils if you add anything to it other than beeswax. Simple Lube simply works, so does Ben's Red and the old NRA formula of equal Beeswax, Vaseline, and paraffin wax. Throw any synthetics in any of those and things get weird.

Gear

Agreed.

When I've used anything synthetic as the "base lube" ingredient and added other stuff to it, the net result was a lube that gave me wildly unpredictable results as in flyers with no discernible pattern or reason to them. In short, I couldn't hold a group even at short distances such as 25' and the faster I pushed the boolits out of a handgun, the wilder and more random the patterning became.

Now, however, when I would try just a synthetic lube plus beeswax, and that was all. . . things really tightened up group wise.

Adding moly. . . I did that exactly ONE time and I swore and swore and swore some more getting that garbage out of my barrels. Worst part about it was that the lube was TOO slick and I had flyers like crazy.

[dikman]

A brief word, if I may, about the term "synthetic", when applied to oils. The common expectation is that if an oil is termed synthetic then it means it's made in a laboratory. Not so, unfortunately. Many so-called synthetic oils are no more than highly refined mineral oils, with additives. Semi-synthetic is an even bigger con, basically just mineral oil with extra additives. The only way to find out if a synthetic oil is, in fact, a true synthetic is to do some homework and look up the MSDS.

The legal precedent that let Castrol call a refined mineral oil "synthetic" has a lot to answer for.

[Bullshop Junior]

Ken started a recipe thread, but after about the second page it went to hell. Too many wannabe lube cooks throwing something up there that they've never even put through a gun just to get their name in print. Sorry the Speed Green recipe by Bullshop got lost in the fray.

Gear

I wish I could find the speedgree recipe. I never paid attentionas a kid, and I wanted to try making it replacing bullplate with synthetic 2 stroke oil. But my searching has been fruitless.

[smokesahoy]

Most people are pretty sure it was just whatever 2 cycle was out in the shed. Some have compared the amsoil saber and it looked felt and smelled the same. When applied to a hot plate it smoked at the same temp. As according to miha any old synthetic will do the same thing.

We may not know the exact 2 cycle but they are manufactured to have similar properties in the engine so will perform similar in our application.
Bit if you want it green then the oil listed above with yellow beeswax will do it.

You're his son? He made a great discovery, managed to cut all the excess ingredients out. It's a great lube, certainly made my starting easier and cheaper without having to buy a ton of ingredients.

[shredder]

Speed Green is my "go to" lube for rifle. I do it 50/50 bullshop sprue plate lube and beeswax. Tacky yes, excellent under all conditions that i can throw at it, yes. It would not surprise me to get similar resuts with 2 stroke synthetic. I just happen to love bullshop sprue plate lube.

I also lube by hand. I first run my boolits through a push through lee sizer with a light coat of Imperial sizining die wax. The tiniest wipe will do. This allows the gas check to get crimped on without pushing lube underneath which seems to happen lots if I try it all at once.

After I have a batch of sized gas checked boolits I apply the speed green and run them through again. It really takes very little time to do and I enjoy fussing and fiddling over things so it suits me just fine to lavish indiviual attention on my boolits. I expect so much from them , why not put in a bit of time to make them as perfect as I can?

Dang it I was not paying attention when I posted this. I use the original formula for speed green. I do NOT mix it 50/50 as I stated above. It is 3 to 1 beeswax to Bullplate. sorry guys..