Powder Coating Boolits

[dverna]

here are a couple 458 socom loads
the lee 500 gr load penetrated 24" of hard packed sand then 8" telephone pole backstop and was recovered a few feet further on the ground Approx 950 FPS 50 yrds

Hard to believe a 500 gr lead bullet at 1000 fps will go through 24" of sand and 8" of wood. I was hoping 12" of sand would be enough to stop 200 gr .30's at 2500 fps - guess I need to rethink that!!

Thanks for posting

Don Verna

[Bullshop]

[QUOTE=dverna;2718453]Hard to believe a 500 gr lead bullet at 1000 fps will go through 24" of sand and 8" of wood. I was hoping 12" of sand would be enough to stop 200 gr .30's at 2500 fps - guess I need to rethink that!!

Thanks for posting

Are you shooting powder coated 30 cal boolits to 2500 fps?

[dverna]

Bullshop,

I have a 311365 NOE and 311334 Lyman mold and my goal is to achieve 2400-2500 fps for long range work. I have been following the coating threads but have concluded that I have a better chance of success with White Label 2500 or CR. So those are the lubes I will start with. Frankly, I think it will be a tough challenge and coated bullets are too new to have demonstrated much success at those velocities (with accuracy). Lubed bullets are not easy but may be easier.

My comment on the sand trap was more out of frustration. I certainly do not want to have a 24" deep trap - even a 12" deep trap is not exactly easy to deal with. And I was sure 12" of sand was going to be enough - now I am wondering.


Don Verna

[Smoke4320]

dverna
I can tell you I have 308 150 Gr Hollowpoints (mil hec 312-159 HP) 98/2 Alloy going less than 2000 FPS and going thru 12" of hard pack sand at 50 yds ..

[Bullshop]

Bullshop,

I have a 311365 NOE and 311334 Lyman mold and my goal is to achieve 2400-2500 fps for long range work. I have been following the coating threads but have concluded that I have a better chance of success with White Label 2500 or CR. So those are the lubes I will start with. Frankly, I think it will be a tough challenge and coated bullets are too new to have demonstrated much success at those velocities (with accuracy). Lubed bullets are not easy but may be easier.

My comment on the sand trap was more out of frustration. I certainly do not want to have a 24" deep trap - even a 12" deep trap is not exactly easy to deal with. And I was sure 12" of sand was going to be enough - now I am wondering.


Don Verna

Thank you for that. I have only begun to take notice of the coating trend but have pretty much come to the same conclusion as you.

[Beau Cassidy]

Alrighty.... getting geared up on my end....



The chrome is the base coat for the candy red and candy blue.

[Beagle333]

Those are gonna be nice!!!!!

[popper]

SIL said he got me a sample of these today.
Attachment 102152
Traded a vacuum cleaner for an almost new Skil miter saw, 7". Any good for cutting 223 for 300BO? Metal cutting blade of course.

[kbstenberg]

I did some experimenting today. An I even lurnd sumthin.
I was ESPC. I had 3 trays with 3 different surfaces. 1 had nails up through a board. It proved extremely successfully with the HP bullets. Nothing unexpected here.
The second tray was metal on half of it were washers that were welded with JB Weld. I put NSTF over the washers. That was a PITA to load the tray. Each one had to have just the GC sized so they would fit into the hole in the washer. It worked but was very time consuming. On the second half of the tray I had Nuts that had holes just larger than the 30 cal bullets. Bullets placed nose down into nuts. There was no sizing so it was much faster loading that half of the tray. There was very little migration of the powder between the nut and the bullet. There was no tipping of the bullets as I moved them from the spraying area to the oven. Over all I think the loose nuts on NSTF was the second best type of baking tray.
The tray I liked the best was just a piece of wood drilled with holes just smaller than the full dia. of the bullets. Put a sheet of NSTF on the top of the wood tray. Slide your hand over the TF to indicate where the holes are. Take the bullet push the nose through the TF into the hole. I found that it was best to push the bullet into the foil until there is only an 1/8" between the top of the foil and the top drive band. I had no powder getting below the foil. Over all the drilled board worked the best for me. Kevin

[Beagle333]

I'm starting to think I'm going to have to go with wood for my drilled tray to hold the bases of my GC .357 boolits. I was experimenting with some aluminum today and I couldn't find any thick enough that the drill wouldn't grab the hole and tear it instead of drill it smoothly. I really wish we had scrapyards that would allow the public! I could use some different metals at times.
But perhaps wood is the way to go. I think Totalloser is using wood and his trays aren't scorching or burning.

[WallyM3]

While it's not scrap (or cheap), here are a couple of sources of stock:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/

https://www.metalsdepot.com/

[bangerjim]

I'm starting to think I'm going to have to go with wood for my drilled tray to hold the bases of my GC .357 boolits. I was experimenting with some aluminum today and I couldn't find any thick enough that the drill wouldn't grab the hole and tear it instead of drill it smoothly. I really wish we had scrapyards that would allow the public! I could use some different metals at times.
But perhaps wood is the way to go. I think Totalloser is using wood and his trays aren't scorching or burning.

I feel for 'ya, guy. And all others that cannot buy scrap! I buy plate, bar, and round bar billets of aircraft grade aluminum all the time. As well as sheet, bar, and square brass. And of course Pb and Sn!


I would be lost without those sources!

banger

[brstevns]

Then it is alright to use the metallic type powder?

[bangerjim]

Then it is alright to use the metallic type powder?

Why not? You shoot FMJ's, right?

Only problem I have heard of with metallic powders is the danger of fire when coating. The aluminum dust can ignite from the static spark and you end up with a ball of flame! You have the "perfect storm"........finely divided metallic powder........lots of oxygen from your compressor..........and a static spark for ignition. Can't beat that for fireworks!

But they use metallic all the time in industrial/commercial coating facilities from what I have seen and heard.

No personal experience...............but has been reported on here a few places.

banger

[DxieLandMan]

Well, I tried to PC some boolits this weekend. Some looked ok afterwards and some looked not so ok. Just got to get it down right and then should be ok. Used HF Red and HF white.

[bangerjim]

Well, I tried to PC some boolits this weekend. Some looked ok afterwards and some looked not so ok. Just got to get it down right and then should be ok. Used HF Red and HF white.

You will read on here (many times) and find out that the white (and yellow) powder pigment does not give 100% coverage over the darker lead. Red is darn near 100% all the time! I only use white to mix with other colors. Black also coats 100% all the time (ESPC only). I just love the look of matte black boolits.

Doing two coats/bakes of white just makes the coating too thick and wastes time and electricity. My rule is: "1 coat/1 bake.....or find another color/method" After looking very closely, I have discovered those "voids" in the white and yellow are actually coated with the clear polyester that the pigments are mixed with. Probably OK. Check your own boolits out and you decide.

banger

[DxieLandMan]

I used the red and white together to make pink colored boolits for my daughter to shoot. Otherwise it will just be 1 color.

[StromBusa]

well, I took the plunge..."easy peasey"....Thanks guys! It's on!

[bangerjim]

well, I took the plunge..."easy peasey"....Thanks guys! It's on!

Welcome to the club!

Shooting just became mor fun......NO LEADING!

banger

[popper]

I ESPC'd white with no problem, fully coated & totally white, ~1K 40SW. Still shooting them. DT white - not so good.
Beagle - you might try a tapered reamer with a stop on the Al. I can't drill in any soft wood without splintering the hole. A greenlee punch & hammer may work also. MDF is OK but wears pretty fast.