I didn't read every Post but I'll tell you my experience with Mis Johnson Wax (winch)
She was all BUT knowledgeable and when I asked to speak with a Marketing person
she got irritated and said NO I then asked Her reason
She replied :
Because I said SO !
Me :
Oh my! are you the owners Daughter ?
She:
SO what if I am ? we are all family here
Me:
NO wonder!!! no-one else would keep someone like you !
She: Hangs up
The short of this was a 5 minute Call with a Person(Brat) who has NO I'll repeat NO NO clue about the Product or Business and Doesn't care too, because she's somebody's little girl
I'd say Johnson Wax Co. would be much better with out her
JMHO based off 3 calls trying to get past her
I don't touch their Product due too it
Tom
I just bought a extra can of the old yellow/brown stuff before it is all gone. I did notice that Mini-wax also makes a paste type furniture polish, so that may work also for our needs.
Mtgrs737
Still Learning!
NRA Life Member
Life long OZ resident
Personality type: Compulsive/Excessive - I don't know what that means, all I know is, if I like something, I want a lot of it!
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Has anyone tried to substitute saddle soap for the JPW? Saddle soap is mild soap containing bee's wax and softening ingredients such as neatsfoot oil and lanolin. I used straight saddle soap once in a pinch and it worked great.
Maybe I'll try 50/50 saddle soap / JPW and add solvent as needed.
I just talked to Johnson and I asked the lady if the gray JPW still had carnuba wax in it and she said yes. I told her it was important to me and she assured me it still contained contained carnuba wax. Ervin
Someone mentioned that carnauba wax is a hydrocarbon wax and while true, if you say carnauba wax on the container, then by law, it has to contain carnauba wax, if you say hydrocarbon wax on the container, you are free to use any of dozens of hydrocarbon waxes that are cheaper than carnauba and they can change week to week as prices fluctuate without having to change packaging. Me thinks this was a hedge to allow the formula to fluctuate with market prices.
Reloading Data Project - (in retirement)
http://sourceforge.net/projects/reloadersrfrnce/
Does anyone know what percentage of JPW was actually carnuba wax? You can buy Carnuba wax flakes on Ebay 4 ounce for $9.00 shipped. what amount would you add to a bottle of Lee Alox and what other ingredients to come up with the original 45-45-10 formula?
I bought two cans at the Home Depot in Frankfort this week and, sadly, they were the new gray stuff. FWIW, it seemed to smell the same and otherwise act the same as my old can of brown.
You can get carnuba flakes for $9.00 a pound http://www.thesage.com/catalog/Fixed...ml#CarnaubaWax .
I mixed a small batch of LLA/JPW this afternoon. Actually it was some of the thinned mix of Alox 606-55 and JPW. I didn't use any mineral spirits because the thinned Alox was already thinner than the Lee Liquid Alox. I didn't use artificial heat since it was about 100ºF outside. I just set the container in the sun. The only thing that took time to dissolve was some small bits that I assumed was the carnauba wax in the JPW. If that is what it actually was, there isn't much in the JPW.
I'm going to cast up some handgun bullets and coat them and see how it works.
John
W.TN
First, look here.
http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/...paste-wax.aspx
According to that page, which was setup in 2010, SC Johnson paste wax still contains carnauba wax.
It had better contain carnauba wax, or I'll bet that page would qualify as false advertising.
Anyway, Has anybody actually tried some LLA/JPW lube mixed with the new JPW?
Seems like somebody ought to do that before sitting here whining and moaning about something that may or may not have happened.
I would try it but I still have a full can of the old stuff laying around.
"I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.
I'm new to casting and I don't know what the old jpw was like. I've lubed bullets with Alox and the boolits were sticky and the lube worked. I mixed up a batch of lube using the "new" jpw, and now my boolits dry completely without the stickiness, and still no barrel leading. Granted I don't know any better, but I like it.
I had made up a (small) batch of lube after getting the can of gray wax--hadn't had occasion to lube, size, load and shoot until recently.
The lube went on no differently. Dried the same (hard and slick--definitely not tacky). Shot the same as always--extremely consistent accuracy, very little to almost no smoke. Clean and shiny bore, couple of swabs with a dry patch and that was it.
Can't tell any difference between the JPW with the tan dye versus the dye-free JPW.
Recluse, was this the 45-45-10 mix?
Yes, sir.
And with temperatures in the triple digits down here in Tejas, no heat gun or blow dryer or microwave is needed.
For whatever reason, it seemed to always be in cooler/colder weather when I mixed this stuff up. I don't cast/lube much in the summer months, so I've never paid that much attention to the viscosity during the hotter months.
But, again it worked just fine and just like the previous JPW mix.
Somehow, I fully expected the person to actually put up some testing would either be you or Geargnasher.
Looks like we can all just go back to using this good lube.
By the way Recluse, what kind of temperatures have you shot this lube at?
I have only shot it in the relatively warm weather in San Antonio, hot weather in Utah, and warm weather in Wyoming. It seems to work great in the hot weather.
I want to use a load I have worked up with my 45-70 for hunting this year, but barring somebody letting me shoot in their meat freezer I wont be able to test it in the cold until very close to the season.
"I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.
Sounds interesting. I've never used a tumble lube and don't want to for a couple of reasons but would like to try it in my lubrisizer. Any recommendations on how to blend the JPW and LLA to be thick enough to use in a lubrisizer? I don't care if it works at room temp or needs heat; either way is OK as long as it gives very little smoke during rapid fire.
David
Been using it for around two years now, so I've hit the hottest seasons of Texas (we're in something like our third straight week of 100F+ temperatures) down to what passes for winter here, even though we did get a lot of snow this year.
Lube has always worked and performed the same regardless of temps.
I was wanting to do the same thing--make some sticks to put in my libesizer to see how it would work.
What I do is make my blend of LLA/JPW, then I add enough beeswax (from Randyrat) to make it a solid. It's a simple lube, but it sure does work EXCELLENT with my bigger, slower moving boolits. Almost no smoke, no tackiness, can flow without heat (down here in Texas), but in colder conditions, it needs a little heat to flow well.
Best lube I've found yet for my 452200SWC .45 boolits. My 358105SWC in .38 Special love the stuff, as do all of my .44 Special loads. Have recently lubed and loaded up some .223 and 7.62x39 but haven't had the chance to shoot them yet and see how they'll do.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |