OK I'm cheap and will admit it.
I can afford to buy my lube but would like to make my own (lets me feel more independant)
I am look ing for recipes for RCBS pistol lube and carnuba red or something similar if anyone has them.
Jim
OK I'm cheap and will admit it.
I can afford to buy my lube but would like to make my own (lets me feel more independant)
I am look ing for recipes for RCBS pistol lube and carnuba red or something similar if anyone has them.
Jim
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=26524 This sticky, at the top of the page, has many lube recipes...
I make my own, but it is much more expensive than the stuff you can get from
http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/index.html
My bullet lube is a synthetic, low smoke, low ash, lubes well, helps to keep the leading down.
Jerry
Honor is a Way of Life
NRA Benefactor Life Member
Do you plan on selling it at some point or has the super secret squirrel games of some members become a contagious outbreak on the board? We are all here to learn from one another afterall..........at least that's what I think we are here for.
I use MML or MML+ a little beeswax for all my HV rifle and pistol needs. I use LLA and tallow based BP lubes on BP stuff and smokeless plinkers that like it. MML is in the lube index thread. Pretty uncomplicated microcrystalline based version of the old LITHIum/BEE'swax lubes.
What would be more helpful is telling us what you intend to use it for and how you intend to apply it, rather than what you want it to be like.
I would recommend Felix lube simply because it will work for everything from 9mm popgun loads to high-velocity .30-'06 equally well. If you want simple, order up some bullplate sprue lube and make Speed Green. Lithi-bee is a good one, too, very versatile and effective.
After hearing all of the research and testing 357Maximum has done with his MML, I'm going to try it as time permits, it is cheap, easy to make, promotes excellent accuracy, and is reported to be a consistent performer through a broad temperature range, you might try it.
Gear
Gear,
I do not normally shoot pistol.
When I do I usually use store bought.
I have a brand new Kahr K9 9MM and a brand new 40 S&W Sigma40 that I want to try my luck with cast in
Mainly to break away from the comercial boys for ammo.
I shot the 9 mm on Monday for the first time and used some Lee 356 SWC boolits.
Got a lot of leading.
The gunsmith at the store where I go told me that is kinda normal until I get about 200 rounds down range to smooth out the bore.
Now I use some DGL lube for pistols that was given to me.
Wrote the post to get someone else's ideas on a good lube.
As I stated I can buy whatever lube I want but thought I would have a go at making my own.
Have the time and kinda wanted to do the Mad Scientist thing.
Am going to try and make a small amount of 357 Maximum's MML tomorrow and give it a try next Monday when I go to the range.
Would still like to find other lubes for these particular guns and learn to make them.
Mostly as a learning experience.
Jim
DGL is a good lube but it was and is made for BP loaded ammo. A lot of the big bore shooters use it for pan lubing. If you want to make a simple and easy lube for smokeless powders then buy some of Bullshop's Bullplate lube and some Beeswax. The proper mix is listed on his site and this one in the sticky section.
Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat; 44 WCF filled to the top, 210 gr. bullet
I don't know about DGL being a BP lube as I have used it in the past in my 45acp with excellent results. That is why I used it this time as well.
As it doesn't hold up in the 9 or 40 was looking for a diferent lube.
OH well I will try the MML and hope for the best.
Jim
Some BP lubes work well for smokeless, low-velocity stuff, but they are formulated to work withy BP chemistry which puts them at a disadvantage when using them at smokeless pressures/velocities. I'm trying to figure out why you keep going for BP lubes, especially since you "don't normally shoot pistol". You will be much better served in smokeless rifle applications by lubes designed for such, I think you've found a good one to try.
Let us know how it works.
Gear
Like I said in the original post I'm cheap.
I wanted to try what I had and not have to expend a lot of cash to get usuable results.
So I guess I will muddle on and try some MML and then put it all away and forget it and go back to using J-word bullets.
Jim
WOW, you let one opinionated soul suck the wind out of your sails....WOW
FWIW I have use alot of "BLACKPOWDER" lubes on smokeless loads of a non demanding nature.........IT WORKS and I have ALOT of it so I use it on things like 38specials , 45 colt , 32 H&R, and 30/30, 35rem, and lowvelocity 357mags.
I know alot of people do not want to order the Microwax to make MML......
By weight 1part Beeswax, 1pt parraffin, 1part lithium grease will still work and you do not have to order anything. I have not seen it to be quite as accurate as my micro based MML, but the loads I used it in were worked from the ground up with MML so the test was a bit flawed from the outset.
Mike,
How much difference to you think substituting the paraffin with beeswax made in your lube...that is the one with paraffin, MCW, lithium grease? I do have all the ingredients but for some reason I want to try it with beeswax. Have you done it that way?
Not Mikey, but I've made the same stuff and know the why's and where-fors. The paraffin was added to the original recipe to stiffen things up (i.e. make the lube harder). Even though it was fairly hard, about like LBT Blue, it didn't play well when used in a heated sizer. Just a bit too much heat and it got real loose in a hurry. We both sustitiuted in 25% or so beeswax for that portion of the microwax. This helped extend the plastic range. The paraffin wax was still left at 1 lb per the original recipe. I went to 12 ozs to make a softer lube for Bruce.
If you wanted to eliminate the paraffin completely, I would sub in an equal amount of BW + a few ounces. You will also have to increase the amount of candle dye to compensate for the yellow effect of the BW iff'in that's impotent to you. I would think your recipe would look something like;
1 14 oz tube of MAG1 multipurpose lithium grease
1.5 lbs Microcrystalline wax BW-430
1.5 lbs Bees wax
2 blocks of Yaley solid candle dye
Make sure you stick to that brand of grease. Mike played with some others and the results were not the same. Iff'in this should come out too hard for you, cut it with a bit of vaseline or mineral oil.
Thanks Bruce
BigBadBruce said it very well...
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |