Savavge action wrench

[Lead melter]

After the holidays, I'll be attempting my first rebarrel job on a Savage M11; going from .308 to .358 with an Adams&Bennet barrel. I have the barrel vise and Go-Nogo guages, but I don't know if I will need an action wrench. Does anyone have a wrench I can rent or borrow if it's needed? I would be glad to pay shipping both ways.

[StarMetal]

All you need is what you have and a barrel nut wrench.

Joe

[Lead melter]

I do have the nut wrench, but have read at various sites that the action/barrel threads can sometimes be "galled" together if some sort of anti binding lubricant was not applied at the factory. This is where the action wrench may come into play. The action can be turned with the wrench and thus not be damaged by using some prying tool.

[anachronism]

All you need is what you have and a barrel nut wrench.

Quite right. You're only torquing the nut, not the action.

[StarMetal]

Sometimes Savage uses a thread locker...you know like Loc-tite. When you go to break the nut loose give it a sharp rap with a hammer...the wrench that is, to initially break it loose.

Joe

[castshooter-too]

Hey Lead Melter ; Is that a&b bbl. a magnum contour?

I've got a 358 win bbl also with 14" twist , let me know
how you made out with the swap. My M11 is 308 also
with tupperware stock but the 358 bbl looks a little large for the
bbl. channel. Thought about finding a laminant stock to try out.



BRUCE

[Johnch]

Sometimes Savage uses a thread locker...you know like Loc-tite. When you go to break the nut loose give it a sharp rap with a hammer...the wrench that is, to initially break it loose.

Joe

On my one Savage
I had to heat the action where the barrel was with a heat gun

The thread locker when heated sort of melted and I was able to turn the barrel off lots easyer

John

[jhrosier]

.. have read at various sites that the action/barrel threads can sometimes be "galled" together if some sort of anti binding lubricant was not applied at the factory. ....

I was told that Savage uses some sort of loctite on their barrels and it needs to be heated to soften before removing the old barrel.
When I mentioned this to my gunsmith, he said that he was aware of this and always heated the threaded area of the barrel and action before removing barrels.

Jack

[Lead melter]

QUOTE=castshooter-too;757136]Hey Lead Melter ; Is that a&b bbl. a magnum contour?

I've got a 358 win bbl also with 14" twist , let me know
how you made out with the swap. My M11 is 308 also
with tupperware stock but the 358 bbl looks a little large for the
bbl. channel. Thought about finding a laminant stock to try out.



BRUCE[/QUOTE]

Sure is! It does look a BIT big, so I may go the composite route.

Thanks for the thread locker tips guys. They may help a lot.

[223tenx]

I bought a rubber doormat from the Dollar Store and used it to hold the barrel in a wood vice to keep it from turning. No pressure on the action whatsoever. Then heated the nut with a heatgun and whacked the nut wrench with a brass ball peen hammer. Had to whack it 5-6 times before it broke loose. Oh, I also squirted Kroil on the nut and let it soak a while.

[Three44s]

I did my first Savage barrel swap a few days ago.

But my nut wrench was a borrowed one and I promised the owner ........ no hammering!

He advised the following:

Use a long breaker bar .......... I used a 1/2" long handled flex handle and was careful to keep it perpendicular with the barrel so as to not let it or the nut wrench tip.

A steady pressure and it was off ............

......... now, I'm used to Cat track pad bolts and other heavy stuff so this Savage swap was like working on a jewel watch ......... LOL!

Three 44s