You might be better off with canoe seating. It will probably be really hard to paddle sitting that low in the boat.
Great project though!
Willy Snyder
PO Box 2732
Pocatello, ID 83206
You might be better off with canoe seating. It will probably be really hard to paddle sitting that low in the boat.
Great project though!
15meter,
I'm using RAKA epoxy, they're out of Florida. I was having trouble with the medium viscosity resin flashing off too fast because of the heat. I called them and they sent me another gallon of resin and 1/2 gallon of harder of slow cure for free! Can't beat that service!
John Wayne,
The 5mm luaun plywood and cedar are very light weight, that makes the difference. Thanks for the comments!
Wheelgun,
That makes sense with a boat that big building it on a jig.
I'm going to add 3 transverse frames (ribs) and hope to keep the weight no more than 35 lbs.
garandsrus,
I can raise the seat if need be. I like a seat with some back support. In any case it's removeable.
All that good work and built it out of luan! The marine ply has more laminations and no voids. I hope I’m wrong but afraid it won’t last with heavy use. Would post pic but site doesn’t like me anymore.
"My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
Leonard Ravenhill
Yes, I see pics in other posts. I just checked one where I knew there was a pic. Still there. Never had a problem before.
Last edited by oldblinddog; Yesterday at 11:29 AM.
USMC 6638
Hogtamer,
The luaun will be totally sealed in fiberglass and resin. Like Plate plinker said as long as it doesn't scrape through (and you do maintenance) it should be fine for a long time. I'm not the first to use luaun ply, did you see Wheel Guns post on the 18' fishing boat he built using luaun? It was sporting a 60hp outboard!
Oldblinddog,
Don't know what to tell ya. Photos are showing for everyone else, must something on computer.
Luan is, I believe, mahogany plywood or meranti plywood. The alternative is okume plywood (very expensive). The problem with marine grade plywood is that it won’t bend to achieve your shape. I used plain marine grade plywood on the transom and deck, where little bending is needed to accomplish your desired result.
Oh, by the way, I used system 3 epoxy. It was less expensive than West system, and Raka had just been introduced.
Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!
very nice no matter the material
I should think being reinforced in key areas with fiber glass that should cure any concerns about the base material
great job
Hit em'hard
hit em'often
Sorry about the picture quality. These were before the cloud, and are pictures of pictures.
Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!
Here is close to a finished product. I eventually added a trolling motor and a poling platform.
Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!
Your bateau looks beautiful. Well done.
If it is marked "underlayment" it should have zero interior voids. It may not be exterior glue. Complete encapsulation in epoxy is required then, even then it does not take much to let water penetrate.
Those basic canoes are intended to be casual, almost throw away boats, not forever heirloom boats to be handed down generation to generation. And I don't think a lot of the collector boats were expected to last for as long as they have.
The restoration effort and material costs typically can't be justified on an rational basis.
And I've been involved in a couple of projects like that. 30's vintage iceboats and 40's vintage day sailors that would have been better used as kindling under the steam pot for bending components for completely new built.
But it was fun and challenging and a great way to waste a winter Sunday afternoon(or a couple of dozen) with buddies.
1946 K-Cat a one design sailboat out of Toledo, Replaced 21 of 24 steam bent ribs, stripped the deck, new canvas, dropped the swing keep and repaired it. Rebuilt the centerboard trunk and a bunch of other work. It was quite a project.k cat in barn.jpg
Here it was hanging in the barn so we could work on the centerboard and centerboard trunk.
I have made a bunch of wood boats for duck hunting and fishing. I have always used USComposites for epoxy and glass cloth, mat and tape. I stop at local cabinet shops to get my wood flour. One thing I have learned doing this was to make sure you put cloth and epoxy on everything. And a layer of tape or two depending on where the most wear occures.
And make sure you do not leave the epoxy uncoated. The sun will ruin the epoxy in short order. So paint it.
Nice looking projects!
I never got into boats but a lot of my friends had them so I have been out on the water and it’s a lot of fun!
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |