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Thread: Chainlink fence post repair

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Kaneohe, HI
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    Chainlink fence post repair

    Have a few post that have rusted at the base.
    Correct way to repair would be to dig it out, and replace it.
    Way to much work for me.
    Could pay to have it done, but everything here is so over priced, I'm looking for an alternative.
    First thought was to find a pipe that would fit into the inside of the post.
    Could epoxy it in, and it should last another 40 years.
    Nothing "off the shelf" is the right size to my liking.
    Thought of getting a core drill, drilling out the post taking some of the cement base with it, and cement in a replacement post.
    Way to much work, and I'd have to find something to do the drilling.
    Friend told me he repaired a post by fitting rebar in it.
    Got the right amount and size to fill it up, epoxy everything in, seal the top, and so far it's working great.
    I found they now have fiberglass rebar, so it wouldn't rust out.
    What ya'll think of this plan????

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    hoodat's Avatar
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    Is appearance a large concern? Or mainly function? jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    375RUGER's Avatar
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    in the late 80s early 90s fiberglass rebar was the new thing. The fad didn't last long as neither did the concrete pads the fiberglass was supposed to reinforce. They typically only went 1 year before they were crumbling apart. Fiberglass isn't as strong as steel and the concrete doesn't bond to it like it does steel.

    Does Hawaii have any cheap high school labor to be hired to dig out the old and put in new?

    Sounds like a lot of expensive epoxy to fill up a 2"(?) fence post. Why not fill with quikcrete and a piece or two of 1/2 rebar (or whatever size you like)? Then you would have a concrete post reinforced with a steel core and steel outer sheath.
    Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. -- H.L. Mencken

    The notion that a radical is one who hates his country is naïve and usually idiotic. He is, more likely, one who likes his country more than the rest of us, and is thus more disturbed than the rest of us when he sees it debauched. He is not a bad citizen turning to crime; he is a good citizen driven to despair.― H.L. Mencken

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Yeah, I'd call the local shop teacher see if he has a hard working lad that might lend a hand. Pay him well.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master deces's Avatar
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    Spray foam might do the trick if it hasn't separated away. Epoxy is expensive stuff to be pouring on the ground.
    These men and their hypnotized followers call this a new order. It is not new. It is not order.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Dec 2025
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    Have you checked auto parts places for their exhaust pipes? If I remember right, they’re size by ID while fence posts are sized by OD. Maybe the sizes would work in your favor?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    hoodat's Avatar
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    If it's a line post and not a terminal or corner, the strength factor isn't as critical. Around here they use very little concrete on the line posts, hardly more than a dinner plate sized disk near the top of the hole. Not to hard to bust it and remove to replace a post. jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  8. #8
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    The rebar idea isn't bad.

    You might try hammering a piece of 3/4 or 2 sticks of 1/2" rebar to reinforce the 'stump' leaving about 2' coming out.
    Get a bag of cheap cement, pour it down in there while you're watering it.
    Put your new post over the rebar, fill & water more dry cement down into it while you tap on the post with a hammer
    to get all settled.
    Gone are the days of wooden ships and Iron men.
    I doubt we shall see their likes again.

    Spoken by a US Coast Guard station commander.
    Upper East Coast. Circa 1920.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    Just put a post in next to the rusted out post, attach the fence to the new post, then remove the old rusted out post from the fence, in that order. That is the easy way for field posts. Corners and Ends are the posts pulled against, so they are tougher to replace while keeping the fence tight. If a corner, put new posts on both sides of the corner first, attach then, then remove the old post. There is usually a taught steel wire at the top and bottom of a chain link fence. Fence installers put a flat steel rod through the chain link Then they strap off on both ends and pull the center of the flat rod until the fence is tight with a vehicle like a 4 wheeler or tractor.
    An auger mounted on a tractor makes the process easier. Set the post in concrete against the fence The auger turns up against the fence, the fence just slips off the auger blade if it is just touching.
    “There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
    Cervantes

    “Never give up, never quit.”
    Robert Rogers
    Roger’s Rangers

    There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
    Will Rogers

  10. #10
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    Concrete to anchor fence posts is insanity.
    Not needed, spade anchors are plenty to anchor the posts.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Fill the post with concrete. Probably cheaper than fiberglass rods, but more work. You can paint the exterior with Rustoleum to stop the rusting.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Farm jack the post out and replace.
    Whatever!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master





    SSGOldfart's Avatar
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    Hammer in two pieces of 1/2or 5/8 rebar,into the base of your poles add quickcrete, then place a small block of wood between them to spread them apart at the top.then after your quick create has set you'll need to remove the wooden block and push your replacement pole on the rebar for a friction fit. it will last for years,conner post or gate post will have to be dug up to replace but line post hole very little weight.
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Just thinking out loud here.
    If you can find post the same as whats used ID is more important than OD here.

    1 cut post of square leaving a foot or more to work with, below ground counts here as well.
    2 Cut a length of pipe 2-3' long add handles sides.
    3 paint inside with Vaseline.
    4 set on top of old post and tape up heavy to support or a thin piece of sheet metal and hose clamps to supportthe top pipe ( this is a mould the Vaseline is the release agent ) set 2 or 3 lengths of rebar in
    5 fill with concrete to top of tube and work air out with a small rod
    6 Let cure

    when cured you should have a concrete stud the same id as the post to set over and can be glued or pinned in place. The heavy coat off vasolene should give enough clearance for new pipe to slide on.

    The only thing that should show when done is the seam from old post to new. With the rebar in the repair this should be a solid repair.

    Depending on how much concrete was used a automotive bumper jack or high lift jack can be used to jack posts out and just replace them. Be sure to remove all the fence ties to the posts before jacking them out. A riding lawn mower or fence post and come a long can be used to pull fence away from post to give some room to work.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
    Balrog006's Avatar
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    Instead of inserting a smaller pipe inside your fence post-have you tried sleeping outside it with a larger one?
    “Cui prodest?” Lucius Annaeus Seneca

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check