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Thread: Win 1895 (Miroku) Reassembly

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Win 1895 (Miroku) Reassembly

    I’ve searched all over the internet and cannot find a reassembly instructions/video for specifically a Miroku 1895. I am struggling to determine the correct way/best technique to reinstall the hammer spring + insert and hammer strut + strut collar. Predominantly the issue I see is how to compress the spring to get it all in there (without everything going flying, making my hands bleed more, etc.) The schematics below show the parts in question circled in red. Thanks guys!

    IMG_0104.jpg

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    Here ya go: ( about minute 32)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3fgm3RJn0Q

    .

    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
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    Unfortunately not quite the same (no lower tang removal for one). His hammer spring/strut/etc. remained all together with the lower tang removal - wish that was my case. All of my parts are completely separated right now- see below pic.

    IMG_0106 Medium.jpeg
    Last edited by MikeF35; 09-14-2025 at 08:21 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    K43's Avatar
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    There is a small hole on the bottom end of #47.
    #46, #45, and #48 need to be assembled onto #47, spring compressed, and a pin or small nail place in the hole in #47 to retain them with #66. Then place the hammer in the receiver and complete putting the spring/strut assembly in place.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks K43, that is helpful. For assembly, can you confirm if I have the orientation/relative location of parts correct in the below pic?

    - The green circle on #48 highlights direction of the “cut outs” (not sure if they face towards the spring or away). Also it seems weird that #48 does not fit inside the spring, as it makes for a very unstable part between the spring and #66 when compressing (unless I have #48 in the wrong position?)

    - Is #66 oriented correctly or do I need to flip it so the portion annotated by orange arrow is “pointing” down instead of up?

    IMG_0108.jpg

    I’m kicking myself for not taking a pic of it all assembled before I played the “exploding parts all over the garage floor” game.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


    K43's Avatar
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    I believe you have #47 upside down and #48 backwards. The little divots in #48 should match little points (ti-ts) on #66 where it will contact after you pull the pin.
    I'm going off memory so please take that into consideration when I tell that if I'm wrong, and the forks on #47 won't go in against the hammer recesses correctly, you just have to flip #47 over and it will work.
    Compressing the spring and getting the pin in may takes some blood from you.
    I suggest getting a large, clear, bag to do the assembly in. Big enough to get your hands in. A gallon bag usually works for me, but I have skinny hands. This helps keep parts from disappearing across the room if it all goes sproing before you get it assemble. I do have this problem myself.

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
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    Well that was a terrible experience, but it’s done. Thanks K43 for the help, you were correct on both part orientation comments. Lesson learned - NEVER disassemble a hammer spring/strut combo on an 1895!

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    If you don't mind me asking, why did you disassemble it?
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    Original issue was the hammer was stuck back in the fully cocked position. While troubleshooting, I decided to disassemble completely and reassemble, thinking whatever the root cause I hadn’t pinned down would be solved with a correct reassembly. Next error was rushing and not looking closely at how everything interacted before starting to unscrew things. Taking out the one screw released the hammer spring tension immediately and forcefully - parts went flying.

    After that painful reassembly I realized the original problem was due to one of the hammer strut’s “legs” was not seated into the notch on the back of the hammer correctly. This unseated position physically restrained the hammer from locking into the correct position and subsequently releasing when the trigger was pressed.

    Overall lesson learned: take your time to diagnose and understand how all parts interact, and if you’re not 100% sure, then go looking for info or help before you start haphazardly taking things apart thinking it’ll all be easy/apparent how to get it back together.

  10. #10
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    Noah Zark's Avatar
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    MikeF35:

    Note that the rear end of the hammer strut has a tiny hole in it. With the buttstock removed and the hammer cocked, insert a bent paperclip into that tiny hole, cock back the hammer, pull the trigger, and release the hammer. The hammer spring bits will be captured on the strut by the paper clip, and the entire assembly can be removed from the receiver. The hammer is free to be withdrawn once the hammer screw is removed.

    Noah

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check