Sorry guys. Been swamped with firewood orders.
Going to try to get to it today or tomorrow and will rep back
Appreciate the advice
Sorry guys. Been swamped with firewood orders.
Going to try to get to it today or tomorrow and will rep back
Appreciate the advice
Don Verna
Yep on that firewood. I need to lay in 8 cords over the next 8 weeks.
Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
K43's idea of a bronze brush will likely work. I've used stiff new stainless brushes as well if the bronze one doesn't. If you have a roll of stiff .082" electric fence wire available, cut an 8" length, fold over 1/4" of the end into a u-turn and hammer it down until it's wire against wire. Then use a triangle file to file that short end into an angled hook (on the very end of the wire). Then you can reach up into the chamber and hook the front end of the case neck. I use these to extract case separations on pistol caliber lever-actions. Small and easy to carry afield in one's kit.
Heard of a fellow who used loctite to glue a bolt into the neck and yanked it out that way.
I tried both a .33 and 9mm brush a few minutes ago…can you believe I could not find a brush that size in my kit? Had to wait for my fiance to pick them up in town (25 mikes away) and she was out most of the day.
In any case, neither one worked.
Might try Cerosafe tomorrow but there is a gunsmith I can take it to.
I have more money than talent so the gunsmith is looking more probable. I don’t want to screw up a brand new gun that seems to want to shoot.
Don Verna
Try slugging the barrel from the muzzle end with a 00 buck lead ball.
Worth a try, anyhow.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Today I did a bit more investigation.
Here is a picture of a fired case and a new Starline case. There is a signicant difference in the neck shoulders. The fired case has been reloaded about 5-6 time as part of the barrel break in process with both medium pressure supersonic loads using Lil'Gun and subsonic loads using Green Dot (5 gr with 150 gr bullet)
Stalilne Brass.jpg
I have four fired cases and they measure 1.323" to 1.339" - way under SAAMI spec.
I measured 10 new Starline brass that have been neck sized only and they came out to 1.356" to 1. 364". A difference of over .025"
I also measure 10 new cases before neck sizing and they came to 1.356" to 1.362".
The cases from Starline are good IMO. And neck sizing is not affecting them much if at all...as I would expect.
The problem is the case is being shortened by about .020" after firing. The bolt has been hard to close so I may have a short chamber???
Any other opinions or ideas???
I am taking it to a gunsmith tomorrow to have the stuck neck removed and check headspace. I will ask him about the sharp neck to shoulder transition as well.
Thanks
Don Verna
Just got back from the gunsmith. In his opinion, the chamber was not cut properly and that is causing the sharp shoulder and that is stressing that areas of the case and causing the case neck separation. He does not think using a finishing reamer will resolve the problem unless he takes off the barrel and sets it back. Cost will be $200.
I have contacted Legacy Sports International and will report back.
If LSI does not step up, what do you guys think about having the barrel re-chambered for the .300 Ham'r? It might be a less expensive option than setting back the barrel and I get a bit of a boost in performance. I understand the .300 Ham'r will feed from .223 magazines.
Don Verna
Late to the party, but for the next guy with a similar problem, I've had success with 22 hornets that have separated and left the neck in the chamber with a tap JUST threaded into the remnants of the case, then a light push from the muzzle with a cleaning rod.
An 1/8-1/4 turn is enough to engage the case neck and not score the chamber. Works on a .243 Winchester also.
They generally pop right out.
just a FYI -sulfur will works. Flowers of Sulfur from your drug store or your homemade black powder stuff. Clean the chamber well. Plug the bore. Melt some ( low heat ) in a purpose made aluminum foil spoon -pour in, It bonds chemically with the copper. It will harden solid and you can pop it out with a solid rod. It will "freeze" on steel but scratch right off with your finger nail. I have used this trick many times. It works well.
One time it did not work was on a case that had MOLY in the lube. Not sure why that happened and it was a telephone fix. Maybe it is didn't get cleaned well, or could not be cleaned well enough as it was MOLY. that remains a mystery.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |