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Thread: Win 1895 (Miroku) Reassembly

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Win 1895 (Miroku) Reassembly

    I’ve searched all over the internet and cannot find a reassembly instructions/video for specifically a Miroku 1895. I am struggling to determine the correct way/best technique to reinstall the hammer spring + insert and hammer strut + strut collar. Predominantly the issue I see is how to compress the spring to get it all in there (without everything going flying, making my hands bleed more, etc.) The schematics below show the parts in question circled in red. Thanks guys!

    IMG_0104.jpg

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    Here ya go: ( about minute 32)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3fgm3RJn0Q

    .

    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
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    Unfortunately not quite the same (no lower tang removal for one). His hammer spring/strut/etc. remained all together with the lower tang removal - wish that was my case. All of my parts are completely separated right now- see below pic.

    IMG_0106 Medium.jpeg
    Last edited by MikeF35; Yesterday at 08:21 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


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    There is a small hole on the bottom end of #47.
    #46, #45, and #48 need to be assembled onto #47, spring compressed, and a pin or small nail place in the hole in #47 to retain them with #66. Then place the hammer in the receiver and complete putting the spring/strut assembly in place.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks K43, that is helpful. For assembly, can you confirm if I have the orientation/relative location of parts correct in the below pic?

    - The green circle on #48 highlights direction of the “cut outs” (not sure if they face towards the spring or away). Also it seems weird that #48 does not fit inside the spring, as it makes for a very unstable part between the spring and #66 when compressing (unless I have #48 in the wrong position?)

    - Is #66 oriented correctly or do I need to flip it so the portion annotated by orange arrow is “pointing” down instead of up?

    IMG_0108.jpg

    I’m kicking myself for not taking a pic of it all assembled before I played the “exploding parts all over the garage floor” game.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    I believe you have #47 upside down and #48 backwards. The little divots in #48 should match little points (ti-ts) on #66 where it will contact after you pull the pin.
    I'm going off memory so please take that into consideration when I tell that if I'm wrong, and the forks on #47 won't go in against the hammer recesses correctly, you just have to flip #47 over and it will work.
    Compressing the spring and getting the pin in may takes some blood from you.
    I suggest getting a large, clear, bag to do the assembly in. Big enough to get your hands in. A gallon bag usually works for me, but I have skinny hands. This helps keep parts from disappearing across the room if it all goes sproing before you get it assemble. I do have this problem myself.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check