Does Dillon Case Lube (D.C.L.) need to be cleaned off?

[Patrick L]

Does Dilon Case Lube (DCL) need to be cleaned off, or is it one of those that dries harmless to powder? I'm talking the one that comes in a pump bottle and smells like it's suspended in alcohol.

[Plate plinker]

Does Dilon Case Lube (DCL) need to be cleaned off, or is it one of those that dries harmless to powder? I'm talking the one that comes in a pump bottle and smells like it's suspended in alcohol.

Not a huge fan of that one. Tacks up to much and attracts dirt. Started using Hornady one shot and have not regretted it at all.

[Patrick L]

Great. So does DCL need to be cleaned off?

[oley55]

Great. So does DCL need to be cleaned off?

I fer sure clean it off my finished ammo. Either 90% rubbing alcohol sprayed on a micro fiber cloth or a few minutes in a dry media tumbler.

[YoungGun88]

Like Plate plinker mentioned, the lanolin/alcohol mix that is Dillon case lube, over time, will attract dust or grit if left uncovered or in a dirty environment.
That's the nature of lanolin! But the dust factor can be mitigated(or essentially eliminated) if you "localize" the brass into a sealed container for storage.

My process now:
Dirty brass from firing stays as a "batch" until it's entirely shot up. I prefer to batch my brass into 500rd quantities. Sorted headstamps, known amount of firings, etc. Call me OCD, it works for me and my volume of shooting.
Dirty brass gets decapped on the Lee APP once it's all shot up, then gets wet tumbled with warm water and dawn detergent. No pins or lemi-shine anymore. Rinsing twice with warm water really helps too.
Cleaned brass gets fully dried in the same mesh trays I coat boolits in, using the same convection toaster oven for coating, set to 200 degrees for 15-20mins. Then once cooled down, it gets lubed with Dillon case lube, as follows:

1. 1 gallon ziploc freezer bag gets 1-2 pumps of DCL sprayed in BEFORE adding brass into the bag. This minimizes the chances of lube entering the inside of the case(hello sticky powder syndrome, especially with powder like W231 or BE-86).
2. I add the batch of brass in after the mist has subsided inside the bag, around 20-30s. Seal ziploc bag with some air inside, so it's basically like a balloon.
3. Hand-tumble the brass gently, for 30s or so, to ensure the brass gets evenly coated. Gentle being the operative word, to minimize case mouth damage.
4. Dump into the storage container the brass will live in(those cold cut containers) and allowed to air dry for an hour or so so alcohol can fully flash off. Lid up and put a piece of blue tape with brass batch info on it.

This way, I've found, works well and the brass is basically ready to grab and go for the next round of reloading.
Also allows me to have a cleaner bench and the cold cut containers stack neatly in the storage cabinet as well.

[NWPilgrim]

I use homemade alcohol/lanolin spray and I have left it on some batches when loading the night before going to the range. This is in .223 near max loads. No issues.

But if I have the time, I run the cases through dry corn cob media tumbling after sizing to remove the lube and restore the shine.

[oley55]

Like Plate plinker mentioned, the lanolin/alcohol mix that is Dillon case lube, over time, will attract dust or grit if left uncovered or in a dirty environment.
That's the nature of lanolin! But the dust factor can be mitigated(or essentially eliminated) if you "localize" the brass into a sealed container for storage.

My process now:
Dirty brass from firing stays as a "batch" until it's entirely shot up. I prefer to batch my brass into 500rd quantities. Sorted headstamps, known amount of firings, etc. Call me OCD, it works for me and my volume of shooting.
Dirty brass gets decapped on the Lee APP once it's all shot up, then gets wet tumbled with warm water and dawn detergent. No pins or lemi-shine anymore. Rinsing twice with warm water really helps too.
Cleaned brass gets fully dried in the same mesh trays I coat boolits in, using the same convection toaster oven for coating, set to 200 degrees for 15-20mins. Then once cooled down, it gets lubed with Dillon case lube, as follows:

1. 1 gallon ziploc freezer bag gets 1-2 pumps of DCL sprayed in BEFORE adding brass into the bag. This minimizes the chances of lube entering the inside of the case(hello sticky powder syndrome, especially with powder like W231 or BE-86).
2. I add the batch of brass in after the mist has subsided inside the bag, around 20-30s. Seal ziploc bag with some air inside, so it's basically like a balloon.
3. Hand-tumble the brass gently, for 30s or so, to ensure the brass gets evenly coated. Gentle being the operative word, to minimize case mouth damage.
4. Dump into the storage container the brass will live in(those cold cut containers) and allowed to air dry for an hour or so so alcohol can fully flash off. Lid up and put a piece of blue tape with brass batch info on it.

This way, I've found, works well and the brass is basically ready to grab and go for the next round of reloading.
Also allows me to have a cleaner bench and the cold cut containers stack neatly in the storage cabinet as well.

Different perspectives. I read the OP's post thinking he was wondering if the lube needed to be cleaned off to safely fire loaded ammo. It never occurred to me he was wondering about sizing and storing cases for future processing. That said, doesn't the lube still need to removed eventually? Doesn't the lube prevent the brass cases from expanding and adhering to the chamber walls and preventing all or most of the recoil forces being absorbed buy the bolt lugs?

[Patrick L]

I was thinking about firing live ammo, and possibly powder contamination,not storage.

[YoungGun88]

Different perspectives. I read the OP's post thinking he was wondering if the lube needed to be cleaned off to safely fire loaded ammo. It never occurred to me he was wondering about sizing and storing cases for future processing. That said, doesn't the lube still need to removed eventually? Doesn't the lube prevent the brass cases from expanding and adhering to the chamber walls and preventing all or most of the recoil forces being absorbed buy the bolt lugs?

I use the lanolin lube so sparingly, the cases tend to be quite clean after running through my Dillons that they don't feel "sticky" at all. I stated my process so others who might find issues with the lube getting inside the mouth of smaller cases like 9mm or 45 Auto, to cause issues with the powder sticking to the case mouth after dropping with a Dillon powder measure/funnel in a progressive press.
The case lube helps make even carbide dies glide quite nicely. But as mentioned, "a little can go a long way".
In my situation, I am only reloading handgun cartridges at this time, no rifle yet. When that time comes, I will likely use imperial case wax, but I will certainly give the Dillon case lube a try as well first to see if it works fine.

[omgb]

Yes, it does. Active lube is lanolin. It must be removed

[Soundguy]

I just give a wipe with a cloth..usually fine.

[lightload]

I wet a big towel with charcoal lighter fluid and roll them around. Then as I pick them up I wipe the cases off with a micro fiber cloth.

[sigep1764]

I use the same lube. 10 min in the tumbler with corn cob media cleans the cases. I’ve never tested if it contaminates the powder, but as others have said, it attracts dirt to make them greasy.

[porthos]

i never found it very time consuming to wipe off the case lube (imperial sizing die wax)

[DocSavage]

I throw my cases in my tumbler for 30-60 minutes to clean my cases.

[dillonhelp]

Dillon case lube has no effect on either powder or primers. We do recommend removing the case lube prior to shooting your ammunition. We're lazy. We tumble our loaded ammo in plain corncob with a tablespoon of alcohol added for about ten minutes. This removes the lube, has no effect on powder.

[jetinteriorguy]

I run them through my wet tumbler with a shot of Dawn followed by a couple hours in the vibrator with crushed walnuts and Nufinish. The walnut gives it a nice shine and the Nufinish keeps the brass from tarnishing.

[No_1]

Dillon case lube has no effect on either powder or primers. We do recommend removing the case lube prior to shooting your ammunition. We're lazy. We tumble our loaded ammo in plain corncob with a tablespoon of alcohol added for about ten minutes. This removes the lube, has no effect on powder.

Thanks for chiming in.

Rob