I checked the frog pages for homemade solutions & nothing there. Does anyone know the formula for making your own Tru-Oil?
TIA...
I checked the frog pages for homemade solutions & nothing there. Does anyone know the formula for making your own Tru-Oil?
TIA...
"I haven't shot a 1,000 deer, but I've sat around a 1,000 Texas camp fires. I'm a happy man." - pertnear
I don't know the exact mixture but it would be a combination of Boiled Linseed Oil and Japan Dryer. You could play with the proportions and mix to suit yourself. I would probably add a phenolic based color additive. If you apply and then level the mix as suggested the color additive will make the grain "pop".
Good luck to you, and take care,
Rick
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Yeah - my formula is to cut to the chase and just buy a bottle ( I think I'm on my 4th bottle since I started refinishing the occasional beater stock(s) in the mid-1970's)
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Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
Can’t help you on that, I purchase it.
I’ve been using more Pro Custom recently, but still buy and use Tru Oil.
For some reason Tru Oil seems to be a product that some folks like to run down. I’ve never had any problem with it.
"I haven't shot a 1,000 deer, but I've sat around a 1,000 Texas camp fires. I'm a happy man." - pertnear
tighten the cap down good and store upside down the skin will be on the bottom when you next open it, but be careful when opening as the tru oil will be right at the top of the bottle.
I use tru oil and how Ive dont it for awhile also with paints.
I dont think shrink wrap or other seals will get the air out of the bottle that is the problem. Storing upside down reverses the big air bubble so when opened the good product is on top.
i used to use tru-oil; but switched to pro-custom oil. it sets up faster and is a lot harder to rub out to a high polish making it a tougher finish. why would you want to "make" tru-oil??
Tru Oil and Pro Custom have a slightly different look to the stocks finished using them. I allow both to cure for about three weeks or a month before rubbing them out with rotten stone and mineral oil and neither impress me as tougher when fully cured based on my limited experience.
I put about a half ounce at a time into a two ounce dropper bottle when using either and keep the bottle/can they come in tightly sealed.
Turning it upside down for storage has worked for me. Keep the dried crusties from messing up the finish.
i would have told you Minwax Antique Oil, but wow!!!! $64 a pint!!!! i bought a quart of Minwax about 5 or 6 years ago for $20. i bought also a quart of Minwax Polyurethane Oil for $10-12. they had Minwax wipe on polyurethane for $20-25 per quart, but i made my own, 3 parts poly and 1 part mineral spirits.
you do the Antique Oil by your fingers and you can poly/ms by foam brush.
Russian Admiral said, after the Moskva sank, "we have the world's worst navy but we aren't as bad as our army".
US Army 12B & 51B
I used to spray on the last few coats of true oil. Haven't seen it available in aerosol for a while.
If liars pants really did catch on fire, watching the news would be a lot more fun!
My buddy thins it and Pro Custom and sprays final coats of his both with an air brush setup. Works really well.
We both use the same products, but his finishes and mine look totally dissimilar. He does a lot of target shotgun work and I don’t do much of that. He “wet sands,” I don’t. That’s one thing about oil finishes, it is so versatile.
In addition to storing it upside down, when you first open it don't remove the entire seal, just poke a small hole in it with a toothpick or similar. I also use a thin piece of plastic, (snack bag) under the cap. Stuff lasts a lot longer doing that but it will all eventually dry up. Thankfully, don't need a lot of it.
Here's you MSDS with as much of the ingredients as BC will ever give you.
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/conte...k%20Finish.pdf
Also a wrap of pipe thread tape on the bottle threads will help seal the cap. I have used it on several liquid bottles that have a tendency to harden, worked on most. james
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