The new pro melts, you can’t just unplug them, you have to let them cool down to a set temp before you can unplug it
The new pro melts, you can’t just unplug them, you have to let them cool down to a set temp before you can unplug it
That’s bc the PID is integral. The fan has to keep running until the pot cools to keep the heat from destroying the PID.
An external PID, which it sounds like your acquaintance devised, solves the issue.
I bought it when I got sick of looking for a decent used PM and sicker of my Lee Drip 20.
So far it’s been awesome, except for the mold rest. I bought NOEs guide and it’s a huge improvement.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
I'm not sure if 25ring is saying the following, but I will.
RCBS put the thermocouple in a poor location in the Pro Melt 2 units, Some of them are 50º off.
A DIY PID with the thermocouple submerged in the molten alloy, ideally located near the pour spout, are far more accurate then a RCBS Pro Melt 2 with the thermocouple mounted to the heating element.
I've known more than one person to modify their Pro Melt 2.
https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.p...mocouple.8909/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
I had a Lee 20 lb drip-o-matic for 30 years. I accepted the dripping as just part of the deal. I always kept a screwdriver alongside to twist the rod back and forth if it started to drip.....which was much of the time.
It served me well and is in backup mode now.
I bought the RCBS Pro Melt. I bit the bullet and paid the long dollar for it. It is smoother to operate and apparently more accurate in terms of temp. I also use a thermometer in the pot and it is close to the digital reading most of the time.
I posted my dissatisfaction with the shut down process here and someone suggested a timer. I bought a couple and they are perfect - when you get done, set the temp to minimum, set the timer for 2 hours and walk away.
Easy peasy.
They are worth the money, but I have to say dollar for dollar the Lee pot (with all its faults) is still the best bang for the buck.
Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.
Yes the drip onatic is what I want to stay away from. Love my saeco she’s just getting tired
Ok well the gen 1 pro melt pot just got here. Got it cleaned, put some lead in it to see if it will melt and pour. Keep your fingers crossed she works.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
I think the chants worked. The pot heated up only put 4 pound of lead I it but it worked just fine and no drips. I need a new thermometer to check the lead temp but so far so good . Gonna like this pot, holds more than my 10 pound saeco
I leave about 4 lbs in my pro-melt at the end of a casting session to help the next get started. That's a little less than an inch.
On mine, when its empty and fires up, the bottom third or fourth of the pot where the element is glows red.
I'm sure it's OK, I just don't like seeing it do that.
When I get done, I leave it mostly full. I don't know if it heats up better or faster,
but it makes the dust, dead bugs and spider webs easier to clean out for the next time.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |