Mp makes a dandy,,copy of the rcbs 147,,flat nose,2 lube grooves,shoots splendid! Weighs 152 grs with ww alloy.
Mp makes a dandy,,copy of the rcbs 147,,flat nose,2 lube grooves,shoots splendid! Weighs 152 grs with ww alloy.
A lee 358-158 2r is of similar length to the 358311. I loaded the lee bullet in a 9mm case and used unique at 4.4gr. It averaged 985fps and quickload said it would be 983fps at 25884 psi. It was also loaded at 1.245 OAL, and fired from a cz52 with a 9mm barrel, I'm not sure what the pressure would be if it was seated deeper.
I'm not sure if the mold you ask about is the exact one that MAINIAC was talking about, but I think it would work very well. Just be sure to order the mold handles (mangos de bala molde?), when you order the mold. MP does not include them for free, as some other mold makers do.
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I was looking for heavy bullets mainly for my 9mm competition revolver but also wanted to be able to shoot them in my autos.
Since I was looking to make bullets for competition shooting a two cavity wouldn't cut it and I also needed to be able to get a mould that had a higher number of cavities.
My first was the NOE 155 ELCO because I already had lots of Al's moulds, I could get it immediately (they were in stock) and I could get it in a 5 cavity which could be better but it is certainly better than a 2 cavity mould.
The mould was great and cast up some really nice bullets. They shot well in both the revolver and my autos.
In the pic below you can see the bullets loaded to length for the revolver loads and slightly shorter for the auto loads. These were coated with Hi Tek coating and sized.
While the ELCO was a good start I found that while it does have a tapered profile it still has a flat tip. When the rounds were in the moon clips that flat tip would cause some issues when reloading so while it worked, I really wanted a true round nose.
Around that time MP moulds was doing a group buy for a 147 RN with no lube grooves so it was just for coating. The best part about it was that I could get it in an 8 cavity. This mould is exactly what I was looking for. The heavy RN bullet was perfect and that fact that it was in an 8 cavity mould and was smooth sided for coating meant that it was a joy to cast with. The bullets fall out of the mould as it is opened and making 8 bullets at a time meant I was making large quantities of bullets with ease.
Here is a pic of the mould in use.
In this pic you can see some of the bullets both coated with PC and Hi Tek. The rounds on the left are loaded longer for the revolver and the round on the right is loaded to length for my autos.
While there are lots of choices for you, I think the 8 cavity MP mould in your desired weight/shape is the only way to go.
You'll have to make some space in your inbox kosh
I loaded a few 148 WC so I could say I did .
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I've had my eye on that mold from MP but I just can't pull the trigger because the nose is so short. Why get a RN that loads to the same length as a flat nose? Why so blunt? Pointy rn tumble and blunt rn yaw.The main issue is that the bullet has to seat so deep that you will have to run special expanders, which means lubing the inside of the case necks and you will have to run harder lead. The only time I can sqeak by with softer lead in 9mm is very shallow seating bullets that seat in the thinnest part of the brass.
Any time I shoot a 147 or 158 I need rock hard lead, powder coat, diluted alox on a qtip to lube the case necks before running through the PITA expander and one extra thou oversized bullets to make sure that base driving band stays where I need it. My next heavy bullet will seat shallow like the elco, but just have a normal tangent bore riding ogive that will play nice with powder coat.
I want that long, pointy ogive with about .38 to .40inches above the driving band. I want to get 1.16" with all the driving band in the case for compatibility with lots of guns.
I probably have the same mold from the same group buy. Love it. The weird thing is, it reads "359-135-bb". But it drops 153 grains (coated weight) NLG bevel base bullets.
It may seat deep but:
Using Magtech brass,I do not need any extra expanders, just a standard Dillon Square Deal press. PC:d and sized .356, tack driving ammo for a Tanfoglio Limited Custom. No case neck lubing - I do lube the bullets with Aqualube before sizing.
A great mold anyway.
Thank you very much for all the information you gave me!
One thing to keep in mind is to find the boolit that needs the least deep seating in the brass,
What designs carry the most weight forward? RN, TC, RNFP?
That's kind of a double-edged sword. You already know that the 9mm case has a pretty pronounced inner taper. Lyman 356637 is a boat tail design with this in mind, interestingly enough, 358156 (357 mag) bullet sort of matches the profile of Hornadys 147 jhp, and the 356637 if you leave the gas check off. I've used 356637 and it works fine, as does the NOE 155 gr ELCO bullet mentioned earlier. If you're powder coating I'd probably avoid round-nosed designs because the PC on the round noses can most definitely affect seating depth in some combinations. If you can live with a 135 gr design the 9mm Ranch Dog bullet is available through Arsenal, and I think you can get it in a 5 cavity. NOE lists the 135 Ranch Dog but has never had any available for the past few years. I use the 9mm Ranch Dog in almost everything. My mould is a plain base, cut for conventional lubing, but PCs well and is very accurate. http://arsenalmolds.com/bullet-molds...it=99999999999
Relatively new to this - one of the things I have been wondering is why there is no refrence in any manual I have seen to where the bottom of the bullet should be. I see overall length, powder measurements and bullet weights - but the design of the bullet could, even with the same weight and overall length, seriously affect how much space is in the case after it is seated. Looking at this picture I wonder how you could get enough powder in the case for it to even work. Yet clearly it does.
I have the Lee 356-125-2R and once powdercoated and seated to a normal length it will not chamber. People have told me to seat it deeper but I have been hesitant to do so - but its a much lighter bullet and would not have to go as deep as what I see here.
I loaded a lot with 3.0 of 700x as I'm not looking for high power. Seems in the future I should seat them deeper until they pass that Lee ammo checking tool I just got. What I already made up seems to be OK in my Uberti revolver so no loss - just education.
I am currently using the mp 135 rnfp BB, and it is an all-rounder
so what I'm looking for is not much beyond what I have already tried, it is 12 grains heavier than what I am using
but it would be a great saving of powder
What you say about the boolit base is very true, I still wonder if a beaver or normal base is more accurate
I think the flat base is more accurate.
That actually feeds ?
( or . . . ? )
Tell me it does....
I use this particular bullet for 9mm at ~130 PF. Works quite well in my factory barreled Glocks.
The bevel base helps with deep seating: it might still look a bit wasp waisted, being .358”, but chambers fine with the brass I use (generally 0.010” thickness at the case mouth).
With 95-3-2 alloy they drop just over 148 grains.
This reminds me of the big fat 358 Lee RF (158 ?) bullet that I used for 9 mm subsonic carbine loads 20 years ago, used to have a Beretta Storm. Store bought sub ammo was not sub in that gun so I made my own.
It needed special expanders and the whole reloading process was a delicate one, to say the least.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |