Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback
Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad
Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!
For tools, I don't usually go all out and get fancy with them.
I just sand it, feathering out the edges of the existing finish, clean it with a harsh solvent like carb. cleaner, and paint it.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
Powder coating the green parts would bring those back.
These men and their hypnotized followers call this a new order. It is not new. It is not order.
Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback
Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad
Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!
The steel parts on the case trimmer I would give a good soak in white vinegar and peroxide mixed 50-50. Check some what often. You can soak the aluminum also but the mix is much more aggressive with aluminum.
A small nylon brush cup style in a die grinder or drill Work down wash with solvent dry maybe warm in oven a time or 2 to dry out cast aluminum Then prime and paint
Just a food scrubbing with brush and dish soap will remove a lot and prep for new paint
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
According to Wiki-How;...
When your wheels are heavily oxidized, you'll need to use an aluminum polish pre-cleaner. Spray on the cleaner and allow it to sit for about 10 minutes. Brush oxidized areas where necessary. Rinse and dry the wheel well before moving on.
https://www.amazon.com/California-Cu...16652050&psc=1
When democracy becomes tyranny, those of us with rifles still get to vote.
Glass bead or soda blast the aluminum. Soak the steel parts in Evapo-Rust.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66...efix=rust+remo
For the blued parts, boil them and card the loose rust off. They will come out looking almost new if the pitting isn't too bad. You're basically just doing a rust blue step on them. Here's some Redding dies I cleaned late summer. Should of taken a before pic of the die bodies but they were at least as rusty as the blued parts. Boiled, carded and oiled the blued parts looked new except for plier marks and rust pitting. The die bodies were not boiled. Since they're case hardened I just hit with a wire brush followed up by a scotchbrite pad. Don't use your wifes nice pot. That's a pole barn pot I use mainly for degreasing.
Aluminum oxidation responds well to wd-40...then brush...then even steel wool again with wd-40..
Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback
Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad
Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!
Boiling and carding rusted blued steel parts is often overlooked in favor of stripping all the finish off and starting over. I like it as it's minimal effort and investment. I do have a SS .0025" wire carding wheel, but have used degreased 0000 steel wool, old jeans and burlap. The old rust film you're removing isn't attached very hard and generally comes off easily. If its not, try boil it again. The carding wheels are much faster though and make it easier to get into crevices like knurling. Looks like they've gone up since I got mine but the 4-row is still only $30 at brownells. Look up Mark Novak/Anvil rust bluing on youtube if you're bored. He has a bunch of videos on restoring rusted firearms where boiling and carding is all he does to the metal.
Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback
Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad
Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |