The biggest PITA was .45 Win mag from IIRC .308? Cutting was no biggie but reaming was. Maybe if I had quality equipment like a lathe it would have been a breeze but on a lyman trimmer? not good
The biggest PITA was .45 Win mag from IIRC .308? Cutting was no biggie but reaming was. Maybe if I had quality equipment like a lathe it would have been a breeze but on a lyman trimmer? not good
Regards,
Gary
How do you ream in a Lyman trimmer. I have a turning adaptation for my Lyman trimmer and yes, turning on the trimmer is limited to small amounts or small increments. I always thought reaming was done in a die on the press with something like a tap wrench and a reamer going in through the top of the die.
Tim
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My question also.
Cognitive Dissident
It was in the 80's but it may have been a Forster.
Regards,
Gary
Forster makes neck reamers, both standard and custom sizes. I have one, they work well for my purposes. I also have a lyman for trimming.
This is an old thread I did not look though if I had commented over the years ....
My most significant forming was Berdan primed .303 cases into 44 Magnum shot cases .
The case was first trimmed to just shorter the length of my of my S&W model 29 cylinder then the case was turned in a mini lathe to thin the rim and make the diameter fit my recessed rim cylinder. I have been told newer guns do not need this done?
Then I drilled the primer pocket to tightly fit a 209 shot shell primer .
The case was then fireformed with 5 grains of red dot under a load of #9 shot with over powder wad of felt and a bit of wax on top one shot in gun at a time. First tries were with corn meal it did not do the job . I had a mess in my bore after fireforming that required a Lewis lead remover to get out .
Once fireformed the cases are sized in a standard reloading die with bullet seater removed so the crimp bump sizes the long case to fit chamber ahead of case stop. The cases are then loaded with a 209 primer for powder I found 7 grains Red Dot worked well , A 7/16" card wad seated on powder . I place a dowel with two wraps of wax paper with it rolled over the end into the case ,removing the dowel leaves the paper tube add shot then press shot with dowel expands the paper to hold more shot fill to near case top , then extra wax paper it folded on the shot . A thinner card wad of 7/16" is then seated on top of wax paper /shot with the dowel. The top wad is glued in place Elmer's is one glue used I have also used nail polish .
The wax paper sleeve is to eliminate leading of rifling and is shredded well giving a uniform pattern . These cases hold about 180 grains (.4 oz.) of shot and at 15 feet the #9 shot will go though a steel coffee can and though both sides in the center portion of the can facing me as the rounded edges are thicker for the shot to go though because of angle.
When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.
I guess you could say the ones I made from scratch. I have a 24ga shotgun and back when I got it there were no Magtech shells being made. This was in the US so I did not have easy access to the loaded rounds that were made in Europe.
I got some brass rod and thin wall tubing of the appropriate size. The tubing was a perfect fit to the chamber (don't remember the size. Turned a case head on the lathe, including a bored hole for the 209 primers. The head had a rim of the proper dia, but the body was such that it was a really tight fit on the tubing. I'd assemble by heating the tubing and cooling the head. Put them together and let cool. The final product was just right (after 10 or so trials to get dimensions right).
Made 10 of them and probably reloaded each 20 times or more.
A few years later Magtech came out with their shells and I tossed all of mine.
45 Raptor out of 30-06, you just have to trim the case neck thickness down a bit.
I'm going to try 308 brass next.
38 S&W is my favorite, only because I can just trim 38 Special down to the 38 S&W length.
For some reason 38 S&W is 4 times the cost of 38 Special, I just have the wrong head stamp, just like having 30-06 on my 45 Raptor brass.
"I haven't shot a 1,000 deer, but I've sat around a 1,000 Texas camp fires. I'm a happy man." - pertnear
My hardest conversion, that never worked out, was converting .30-06 brass to .270 Win. I never could get the case necks to stretch-out long enough.
"I haven't shot a 1,000 deer, but I've sat around a 1,000 Texas camp fires. I'm a happy man." - pertnear
I always thought the 270 was just based off a 30-06 simply necked down to 27 caliber.
Yeah, but they'll grow to fit. jd
It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.
The .270 is slightly longer than the 30-06. The overall length of the 30-06 is 2.494" but the .270 is 2.540". There are a couple of other differences also. james
Texassako: Thanks for the great instructions. I also have acquired an Italian Vetterli in 10.35x47R. I dug out a pile of Remington 8mm boxer primed brass. Will use your recipe for making up ammo for the old dog. I have a lot of once fired Syrian 8mm Lebel. I too would drill out the Berdan primers and press a 209 shotgun primer to make blanks for my 1914 French Hotchkiss. Had to seat a wood bullet with blank powder. Had a restriction in the flash hider screwed to the muzzle to make the gun cycle. Was going to use 348 Winchester brass to form up 10.35mm Italian. I like your idea better.
The .270 was birthed from the 30-03 case, wasn’t it?
I was busy the week they created the .270 Winchester, so I didn’t notice.
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.270 is based on 30-03 not 30-06
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There was a time when three of us who hunted together and reloaded together used respectfully a 25-06, 270 Win, and a 30-06. We had a lot of ammo made from a batch of old milsurp 30-06 brass.
We had to be VERRRRY careful about which shells wound up in which rifle. jd
It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |