Just got a vintage nickel Python 1965, really looks good, and I want it to really shine! I know nickel finish is very delicate, so what works best?
Just got a vintage nickel Python 1965, really looks good, and I want it to really shine! I know nickel finish is very delicate, so what works best?
Keep your powder dry....blackbike
:takinWiz:
Simichrome for me. But with any polish, use it sparingly with virtually no pressure...ymmv
Stay away from products that advertise how fast they work.
They do it with coarse abrasives. You can 'sand' through the Nickel before you realize it.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
Asking "what works best?", to me, is like inquiring what the best pizza, or beer is . I bought, a while back, an A. Uberti, Brescia, Italy Model 1866 in .44-40 which someone scratched the you-know-what on both sides of the receiver, and it looked like Fred Flintstone was the prior owner who never touched the outside! I wanted to clean it up without harming plating, albeit I knew the scratched were/are there for life!
A local collector (now deceased ) HIGHLY recommended Flitz Gun Wax -- which I had never heard of. Gifting me a bit, I was/am impressed beyond words with what the firearm looked like after I used the product.
If I was lucky enough to acquire such a fine arm as your Python -- I would use nothing else to polish it!
geo
I wouldnt really push on the "polishing" aspect of this project. Polishing removes material, you want to shine the surfaces with out the removal.
I would give Never dull wading cloth a try lightly applied. Shimichrome polish is good also. Even a spray wax and soft cloth will shine it up nicely.
Flitz!
If you are going to make a hole in something. MAKE IT A BIG ONE!
Thanks guys, you'll got me off on the right foot.
Keep em comming.
Keep your powder dry....blackbike
:takinWiz:
Both Flitz and Semichrome will work. Used both with similar results. Take heed to the caution about using to excess or too harshly. You CAN remove the finish with either. Packed a nickled 19 for most of my LEO time, Semi was the go to stuff way back and served well to clean up and remove minor abrasions and holster wear. Had a fellow office use some on h is blued M/19 and he managed to thin the blueing to a noticable degree.
I got some Flitz wax and 3 microfiber cloths on the way.
I'll get back sone with more details.
When I was buying this gun it looked good other than corboned up cylinder, but had some finger prints and smugges so I wiped them off with an old gun colth that had been laying around the shop for years and afterwards I could see scratches I had just put on it.
Live and learn.
Keep your powder dry....blackbike
:takinWiz:
My cousin who owned a gun shop pawn shop introduced me to BLUEMAGIC Metal Polish Cream. It does well with nickle, blued, or stainless. And it's $3 or $4 at Walmart. It really does a great job!
Britons shall never be slaves.
A good quality Silver polish.
Sure Flitz will polish it, but Flitz is abrasive although very very fine abrasive. It does remove some finish. If you all insist on a polish like Flitz I recomment Mother's Mag polish as it's even a finer abrasive then Flitz. That's why I recommended Silver polish.
Yea I'll go down to my local auto parts store and get some mothers mag polish, also the mothers leather conditioner works great and smells fantastic on old leather coats.
I got some silver maple leafs with milk spots I;ll try the mothers polish on.
Keep your powder dry....blackbike
:takinWiz:
I have heard of people using toothpaste as a polish but I haven’t tried it!
Perhaps I'm wrong (wouldn't be the first time ) but I believe there are TWO different products here -- both marketed with the first word as "Flitz". The Flitz item I suggested (post #4) is their non-abrasive wax. They also purvey -- bion what I had believed to be the "only Flitz" -- is their Flitz metal polish. I love this product -- but just by virtue of it being a polish it is, albeit very mild, abrasive. (I used it to polish a zillion or so spoons used for Lake Trout and Salmon trolling, as well as quite a few firearm-related polishing needs).
But -- I do suggest the Flitz WAX is the one to use on the OP's firearm.
geo
I have had great luck using Flitz. I recently used it to remove some discoloration on a knife blade . Nothing else I tried would touch it.
Keep your powder dry and watch your six !!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |