I’m close to pulling the trigger on $6k worth of chain link fence materials, which I will install myself. I’ve never done this before, but not concerned about failure. Has anybody done this before? Are all brands the same?
I’m close to pulling the trigger on $6k worth of chain link fence materials, which I will install myself. I’ve never done this before, but not concerned about failure. Has anybody done this before? Are all brands the same?
Some are made of heavier material. It is a two-man job. Not hard to do, just follow instructions and measurements. Just finished a fence job before it got too cold, fenced in about 1/2 acer. 3 gates. When you are handling the fabric have bandages on hand, even with leather gloves. If using a power auger, beware it will kick back with tree roots or rocks. I put a 1 x 4 down under fence, so do not need to trim grass and weeds.
How much fence, for what use? Height? A fence stretcher, a winch/come along & a good set of fence pliers will all be good tools to have. Are you setting in cement? Like everything else, watch some video's. Search DIY chain link fence
set fence to run 1" above grass level so weed-whacker line will fit under it.
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There is 11.5 gage Residential Grade galvanized fence wire and thicker.
These considerations, not to be construed as complete, will get you close to the pin:
1.) Find the property markers, assuming it is property you are fencing.
2.) Align fence slightly off of the property line - toward YOUR SIDE - to preclude a dispute later.
3.) Set temporary 4"x4"x8' PT wood posts at the ends of a straight section and run a string line.
4.) Wrap the string around the wood posts - on YOUR SIDE - about 3 feet above grade and pull tight.
5.) Decide to:
5.a.) follow the contour of the ground or
5.b.) expect a space beneath some portions of the fence.
6.) Dig post holes slightly off-center - YOUR SIDE - beneath the string line.
7.) Set fence poles deeper than the bottom of the concrete - for drainage.
8.) Set plumb 1 5/8" diameter line posts in concrete and nearly touching YOUR SIDE of the string line.
8.a.) LINE POST Hole = 8" dia. less 1.625" dia. x 1'-0" deep (0.30 cf concrete)
8.b.) Post spacing is up to you but 10' apart is about 1/2 the width of a 2-piece x 21' (total) top rail.
9.) Set plumb 2 3/8" diameter corner or gate posts in concrete barely touching YOUR SIDE of the string line.
9.a.) GATE/CORNER POST Hole = 9.5" dia. less 2.375" dia. x 1' - 6" deep (0.69 cf concrete)
10.) Allow concrete to harden from 24 to 48 hours.
11.) Construct stretcher (diagonally braced) panels.
12.) Construct 1 3/8" top rail.
13.) Secure and stretch Galvanized Tension Wire first, about 4" above the bottom (with top rail fence).
14.) Anchor and pull fence fabric tight.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Not rocket science, but there is a right way to do it.
Take your time and read post #6.
762
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I've run miles of chain link fence over the years. Land Owner pretty much nailed it....however no one mentioned how to weave chain link when you have to merge unto a new roll. I believe that I still have some simple instructions and will look for them if you like.
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Invest another $20, or make the equivalent of a chain link fence stretcher, a short length of pipe with 3 hooks on one side and a loop centered on the other. It will save you a lot of frustration and improve your vocabulary.
I came by the experience to know this not as a fence installer, but a playground installer. We sometimes had to uninstall fence for access, then reinstall it. We sometimes twisted one wire out, to make a break, then wove the fence back together. I am sure it would be equally handy for the original installation.
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I put up a 6' chain link with two double gates and two single gates by myself. I used the stretcher plus the winch on my utv which also doubled as my fence carrier at the time (used a deer lifter). The weaving as Paul mentioned is not hard once you figure out which way they are supposed to go. I'm in the mountains here so the auger only goes so far and you are using the long breaker bars and such. Used the cement that you just add water to. Make sure the poles are level and try following the contour of the land. Takes time (especially with a bad back) but it is doable. Two people would make it a lot easier. Make sure you have all the hardware before hand. Lay it out if you have to and have some extras. Good luck.
Ron
Out west we go 2 feet down, ive heard back east they go down 4 feet down or the posts freeze out of the ground. And make the hole bigger on the bottom of the hole. But that was a wood fence, and was Holmes on Homes TV show. Make sure your posts are long enough if you go deeper.
If the soil is rocky you may want to go deeper than 2 feet. Clay soil makes goot solid posts.
Lots of good info & tips above. Long ago I worked with a friend running chain link.
One question I have that hasn't been addressed.
What is the fencing for?
Above, it's mentioned to leave a clearance under the bottom edge for weed whacking. BUT,, if you are planning on having critters inside & want to keep them in or other critters out,, beware the diggers.
Coyotes, dogs, foxes, groundhogs, skunks, etc all will dig under a fence.
I tell people all the time to consider digging a trench and setting fencing in the trench & covering it with gravel. At least 1 ft down. If you think you may need to protect against serious digging then there are a few other things that can be done to prevent this. If you need more detailed info, PM me & we can discuss it via a phone call.
I ask this because I do Animal Damage Control work now,, and I see a LOT of problems caused by digging critters.
BTW; Post #6 is an excellent tutorial.
Post #6 is really good detail. In our clay soils, driving the post in the dirt under the concrete effectively seals the bottom of the post. I usually drill a 1/4" hole in the post just above the concrete to allow it to drain, otherwise water in the posts would cause them to split. I have considerable experience setting greenhouse 'gutter' posts (flat surface). We would set the strings, have our posts marked for the correct height above the string, and have everything laid out. Fill the holes with concrete, allow it to set up enough to hold the posts solidly, and tap the posts into the line. We had a 'post level' that served to level the post both ways, cheap plastic, but worked well. You may want to try a 'trial run' to make sure you can get your posts in before the concrete hardens too much.
hc18flyer
Before you start, gather up your equipment, mark your property line corners and lay out the fence to scale. An entrance gate off a 2 lane street 90 degree turn takes 24 feet for a fire truck or a truss truck. That is a double 12' leaf gate. Cars and P/U s can turn into a 12' single. I have put in several fences and have 1 1/2 mile of fence here at the farm with five gates, four 12' and one 24'. My chain link at the lumber yard was 1/2 mile square, that I put in. I ran HTS galvanized wire along the top and bottom on an 8'. Just spray the bottom with Cornerstone.
Never attach a fence to a growing tree and clear the ground of brush and trees with a root rake, not a mower.
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I’m assuming this is for around your residence Chain Link fence is seldom the best choice for animals good for dogs .Another thing when you stretch you can only go snug
Me being a low bucks guy for the dogs I use 5 or 4 ft x 100 rolls of welded wire fencing. For dogs you want it close to the ground. T-posts are easy to put in. For the corner posts I do use wooden CCA treated round poles. I set them in concrete, but that is not the best way to set wooden posts relative to them not rotting. I live in a hurricane prone area and trees and such will fall on a fence. Welded is cheaper to replace. To stretch the fence, two flat boards clamped together with C-clamps and a small chain hoist. Leave the fencing stretched overnight and it will relaxed and come back the morning and stretch it a little more.
Hurricane Sally flooded the lower part of my fence logs and debris knocked down portions of the fence.
Welded wire will not handle livestock like horses or cattle. Some dogs can get under or over anything by the way.
Last edited by barnetmill; 12-01-2022 at 07:05 PM.
The fence is for kids and dogs. I have been thinking about the digging.
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Thanks for all the advice!
I could be wrong - it happens at least daily.
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BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
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