Depends on the mold. My Lee molds are such that you can apply gas checks before or after PC. The Accurate and NOE molds I have will not allow a gas check to seat after PC. I have to apply the GC first, then PC.
For rifle bullets (I only do 1-300 at a time) I cast, seat GC, size, nose size, PC, size and nose size again. And, I wipe the powder off the base of the bullet before I put it on the bake tray.
How do you nose size? It makes sense with PC.
NOE makes a nice bushing type sizing setup. They have specific bushings for nose sizing (very little taper). Push bullet into die, use the punch to push it back out.
For my .308 (land dia at throat is .302) I initially nose size to .299. After PC I size to .302. I ordered my mold from Accurate with a nose dia of no more than .301.
I use a smooth silicone baking sheet. I tumble PC. I stand my boolits up and the bottoms look great…accept for the residual PC that was stuck to the mat previously. You can see the color flakes from a previous bake on the bottoms of my purple boolits…
The good part is that 99.9% of the different colored residual PC comes off when pushed through my lee sizer. The pressure of pushing it through makes it come off. The sizing also smooths out like glass my uneven build up of mixed PC colors.
I tumble mine in a plastic container with only powder in the container (no BBs). Then I pour the powder/bullet mix into a 6x9 powdercoated drawer organizer from BB&B. I pour over a larger plastic sherbet bucket so I can catch and reuse the powder. Then I transfer the bullets to another drawer organizer and I place them all in the oven. Not once have I stood a bullet up or used a a silicon mat. The bullets stick together sometimes but they come apart easily and any hickies come off the sides during sizing. Another benefit of this method is that while I shake the powder off of them the coating seems to thin a bit. With a good powder that "flows" when it bakes this provides no challenges with seating gas checks after coating.
https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/sto...awer-organizer
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children can live in peace.
Thomas Paine
Dinny, it's nice to run into you again. I used up all those bullets you coated for me and I'm hoping to be set up to do my own powder coating soon...
Tony
Hi, my name is Tony and I'm addicted to gunpowder.
AKA Geezerbiker
HF black will only work with the gun, will not "shake and bake".
Shake and bake coats the bottoms also.
I size and seat the GC first, then coat, then re-size if needed.
BTW the "Shake and Bake" coats the best and allows use of different powders, but Eastwood light blue and Smokes blues seem to work best. It's also the only exercise I get, so don't mind it.
HF black powder -- dump it in the trash. It will work when spraying but is abrasive. Won't tumble lube. I sprayed nose down for rifle or pistol (FP) and made a rig for rifle stuff. Put the GC on first. Wet tumbling (h20) is a no-go. I changed to shake and bake with smokes powder- red. His clear is supposed to be great. Sprayer is gathering dust. No way you can keep the powder off EVERYTHING. I use a hot plate to cook and a Yoshi copperized mat which has lasted for 3 yrs. I use a 45cal ammo plastic block with the bottom sanded off as a 'guide' for setting to cook. Steel plate and yoshi, drop rifle bullets into the 'block', move to hot plate, remove block. Place a cooking plastic dish (from her) over the top, cook and done. Dish isn't really needed unless it's cold out.
Last edited by popper; 09-12-2022 at 04:16 PM.
Whatever!
I pop riveted 22lr cases to several baking pans so I could set the boolits on them for ES spraying. The base doesn't get completely PC'd but it wraps around the corner enough to protect it. I've made several small ones to use in the toaster oven, and a few large ones for my big oven. Definitely not for someone with shaky hands but they've been working great for me for thousands of boolits.
Wow, has it really been that long. I've been dealing with a lot of pain from the bike cashes I was in many years ago and I've just recently been able to get my doctors to take me seriously. I've only been able to get out shooting when I have someone with me that is willing to set up the targets. However the future is looking a bit brighter...
Tony
Hi, my name is Tony and I'm addicted to gunpowder.
AKA Geezerbiker
I place mine on a small pan that fits in the toaster oven that I dedicated to cooking my coated bullets. The bottoms coat well and it seems to stay on very well. I also made a wire basket out of stiff hardware cloth, which is a heavy wire mesh, It allows good flow of the heat, but sometimes I can not place as many bullets on it compared to the pan. It also depends on the caliber.
I was about to ask if anyone didn't bother to stand them up. Then I read your post. I may have to give this a try. This will greatly speed up the process.
Does the mesh screen of your organizer leave a waffle pattern on the side down of each boolit? Have you noticed it affecting accuracy? Or does the sizer hide the mesh?
Rosewood
Evangelical, deplorable redneck and proud of it.
Mine coat well including the bottom and I gently stand them up on parchment paper ( sometimes non-stick foil and sometimes silicone baking sheet) and for some reason the bottoms never come out glossy. They are coated but sometimes it looks like they aren't! How can I fix this or is there anyway to correct it? Is this a bad thing should they not be used if they don't coat the same as the rest of the bullet?
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |