My molds are all iron, all have as cast bullets and sprue left in place, from the last bullets cast, and for the last 50 years. I learned casting from an old fellow that knew Harry Pope. I attended the Ned Roberts shoots.
My molds are all iron, all have as cast bullets and sprue left in place, from the last bullets cast, and for the last 50 years. I learned casting from an old fellow that knew Harry Pope. I attended the Ned Roberts shoots.
“There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
Cervantes
“Never give up, never quit.”
Robert Rogers
Roger’s Rangers
There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
Will Rogers
Pope and his contemporaries invented virtually the entire process of bullet-casting as we know it, except for this passing fad for powder-coating. They lived without airconditioning, without our plastic bags and boxes, and as far as I know without our desiccants and VPI paper. They could have oiled/greased their moulds, but chose to leave them full of lead instead.
Cognitive Dissident
I never have done it. Never seen the need to. I spray mine down with Ballistol before putting them away..
I used to do it ... I had read doing so would prevent the cavities from rusting ...
It may in Arizona but it don't in South Louisiana .
Don't believe everything you read .
I don't do it any more ...
1.) I like to keep an eye on the cavities ... do rust inspection now and again .
2.) Have started spraying moulds & cavities with Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant before storing , keeps the "Rust Fairies" away and doesn't contaminate the cavities . Warm up the mould and start casting ... the dry lube acts like a mould release and can stay in / on the mould and doesn't have to be cleaned off .
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
If you leave a bullet in the mold, you can't shoot that bullet. Bob
I used to do this. I have a real nice Lyman 4 gang that rusted up pretty nasty, all 4 holes with the slugs inside. I live in arid, West Texas as well. They all get oiled now.
That mold always cast small and was put up for about 10 years.
I cleaned all the rust out. Polished etc. Bullets still dropped a bit small. Powdercoat cured my size problem.
Here's another opinion - and you know what they say about those...I store my molds in their original boxes with some VPI paper, on a shelf inside a bedroom closet - so the atmosphere is controlled year round. Never had any issues with corrosion on aluminum or iron/steel molds.
I'm not a fan of having to clean a mold for 20 minutes..re season it..etc before pouring... I've never had a rust or other problem leaving a bullet in. It's my first free drop. Head the mold and go.
Seen molds for sale at flea market, gunshows and garage sales. Everyone that had cast left in the chamber were oxidized. The mold was oxidized. These were usually inherited and the folks could care less for them except for the money they received. Or recovered from a storage unit.
I smoke my molds after the last pour and store it that way. Is it wrong?
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
I have always left the last boolits in moulds then oiled. I leave the boolits in the moulds because they seal up the holes, keep the mould halfs from opening easily and keep oil against the cavity surafaces (it wicks in).
I'd tend to agree that leaving boolits in the cavities but not oiling could lead to problems in high humidity or moisture.
I do this with all moulds, iron, brass or aluminum because regardless of mould material, alignment pins and sprue plates are steel and can rust. A rusty sprue plate on an aluminum or brass mould can easily gouge the top surface of the mould. So, yes "aluminum" moulds can rust... or at least the steel parts of most aluminum moulds can rust. I oil them all and leave boolits in them all.
I have never found clean up before casting to be an issue. I wipe down with a rag or paper towel then pre-heat until the mould just starts to smoke then cast. It works for me.
YMMV
Longbow
I do nothing to mine. When finished casting and cooling down, I store molds in a wood box, no lid. I do leave them open so air gets in. also, my reloading room is heated to a constant 69 degrees all the time. In 40 years have never had a mold rust, or otherwise. Now, things could get ugly pending were someone lives like maybe where humidity is an issue or in an unheated area..
I keep my molds where mud daubers and moisture aren't allowed. I don't leave boolits in the molds. Need to start another drawer soon.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
I always put my molds in army ammo cans that close air tight with some desiccant inside. 50 cals are nice. Plano makes some inserts for the 50 cans that double or triple the molds you can store. Leaving a bullet in the mold is sillyness. It may appear to work in some bone dry climate like Arizona or Colorado, but it don't work in Alabama, or New York. Keep the moisture, wet air off. best of luck.
In N Texas, empty in the cardboard box they came in or attached to the handles and in the Lee handle box - in a drawer in the garage. They still work fine. Alum. moulds, just let cool and store. With no bullets. I cast something about every 6 months.
Whatever!
Not that I do it, but wouldn't leaving bullets (oiled) in the cavities be the perfect way to remember/validate what size each mold casts to with my alloy? Seems like I see folks selling or trying to buy a mold and the subject of what size they cast to usually comes up.
“Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan
Dont store them for long. Cast and shoot frequent enough so rust cant form! I recommend twice a week if possible. At least that what the doctor told me.
I never leave a bullet in any of my molds.
The aluminum molds are store without anything in/on them.
The iron molds get a light coat of oil that is easily removed before casting.
This is for long term storage.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |