My .357 are starting to split. I don’t load them hot. Wondering if anyone tried annealing to extend their reloading life.
My .357 are starting to split. I don’t load them hot. Wondering if anyone tried annealing to extend their reloading life.
Last edited by 468; 06-11-2022 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Added photo
Mould forth, and load in peace.
No. I have never bothered. I get what I consider good life out of them and just discard the split ones when that happens.
The calibers I shoot are common enough the brass is readily available and comparatively cheap,
so I don't bother to anneal them.
As for splits- I only flare and crimp them down the least little bit I can and everything still works well.
This seems to help extend their lifespan a lot.
Those dies that put a big bell on the case mouth- by the time you roll crimp them, that really eats 'em up.
If you're having a big problem with split cases, you might try a Lee powder through the expander.
They minimize working the mouth of the case.
If you need to buy .357 brass, try not to get the Nickel plated ones.
They don't seem to last as long as the plain brass ones.
Last edited by Winger Ed.; 06-11-2022 at 01:23 AM.
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I've only annealed bottleneck cases for Sillywett pistols, never took the time to do straight wall cases.
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Nope
Only use the Lyman M-die.
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I tried once a long time ago with 44 cases. Decided it wasn't worth the time. (I have about 1500 cases and don't shoot massive abouts every month. I used the method where you hold the brass between thumb and finger and heat till you feel the heat in your fingers.
As for nickel cases, I have some .38 spl. that I have been loading since 1974. They have been shot a minimum of 10 to 15 times each. I wouldn't expect to get anything better out of yellow brass.
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I would venture to say that most, if not all, don’t anneal handgun brass. However, there’s no law saying you can not. I have spare time so I do things that most won’t do and it doesn’t hurt anything. So if it’s something you want to try I say do it.
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What Winger Ed said. He’s spot on. I have some .357mag brass here I’m still loading that’s from the late 80’s. I’ve lost a couple, but not many. They were almost all loaded with ww296 also.
I’ve annealed some 41mag brass.
Thanks for the responses. For some reason, I ant upload the photo of the split cases. The split is not at the mouth, but starts about where the boolit base is and extends downward about 1/4”.
I’ll try to figure this photo thing…
Mould forth, and load in peace.
I think this worked
Sorry, I should have led with this, but couldn’t get it to post last night…
Mould forth, and load in peace.
I used 200 Starline 45 Colt cases for several years in CAS competition. Guns were Ruger SAs and a Marlin Cowboy 45. Bullets were 200 grain RNFPs, of diameter 0.452". I used a custom Buffalo Arms expander, designed like a Lyman M die, main stem 0.451, short neck 0.454. Bullets snapped into the prepared necks and rounds looked factory with the Redding profile roll crimp. When the necks work hardened after about 5 loads, I torch annealed them, making them good for another 5 loads. Same cases lasted for 3 years of weekly competition.
The annealing procedure was quite basic. I had a B&D battery drill driver and chucked a socket adapter stem with a 9/16" socket. Lit propane torch stood on the bench (with a large diameter base), cases were dropped into the socket, head down, and rotating necks held in the flame for the first color change, then dumped into water.
Last edited by Nueces; 06-11-2022 at 08:28 PM.
Can nickel plated brass be annealed?
Mould forth, and load in peace.
Yes it can, same as unplated
You didn’t state who the manufacturer was. I’m just curious. I worked in the auto industry for around forty years and I’ve probably made millions of copper/brass radiators. About twenty years ago we purchased some brass oil coolers from a place in Brazil, who was actually a big OE supplier in S. America, and had good quality. Anyway, we started getting a lot of oil cooler leaks and immediately put a hold on all their product until the root cause could be found. It turned out they changed brass metallurgy and started using a red brass. After annealing in their rolling mill process it started cracking after about three months in inventory. We charged them back several million dollars and they went back to their old brass process….no more cracked coolers. I suspect whoever made those cases used a different type of brass…either to save money or they didn’t know their supplier had changed. FYI, I’ve been in brass foundries that made brass for the automotive industry and as a side money maker they made cartridge cases. They made them for some really big name companies. Don’t assume the brass you’re buying is made by the company whose name is on the box. They get behind and outsource the job sometimes.
I anneal all of my formed brass, prior to forming, plus my long revolver brass, the Super Mags and single shots. I just use the shallow water pan with water over the web, lights out, turn just pink and tip over with the torch tip. It can near double the life of my brass when minimally expand to just fit a base, seat and then taper crimp.
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Revolver brass tat we anneal is the uncommon ones. Supermags, 475 Linebaugh, 45 Winchester Mag......
Plus we only eck size revolver brass as we segregate brass to a certain revolver.
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With mild loads I have never felt the need to.
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Straight-wall pistol brass is for the picking up around here! Never bothered with the labor of annealing pistol brass.
I have done some bottleneck 30-30 and 30-06 in the past, but I shoot so few of those, I have many boxes of the stuff ready to prime and load.
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