Good greif....It's super easy. Takes about 2 minutes. Get the thing to spin in something and take an angle grinder with a thin blade and grind it off. You can do it in your sleep. If yor are skert, put on a grinding shield.
Good greif....It's super easy. Takes about 2 minutes. Get the thing to spin in something and take an angle grinder with a thin blade and grind it off. You can do it in your sleep. If yor are skert, put on a grinding shield.
A fellow in Virginia about 8 years ago was killed when a cut off wheel shattered and send part of it into his upper chest . Those things are no joke and will hurt you quick , I've had a couple shatter on me and it will make you quickly reevaluate what you are doing with that thing . Back to the subject of the die I 've cut one down with a Porta band saw , fine tooth blade and slow on the speed . If you go the cut off wheel route , just go slow with the pressure you put on it .
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Jesus said ( Come unto me, all ye that labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest ) Matt. 11:28
Are we talking about the same grinders here folks? I am speaking of a Harbor Freight 4.5" angle grinder. with a steel guard half way around it...
I have used them for a long time ...broken many blades... Cannot imagine a chunk of wheel from one of these Possibly going through the fabric of a shirt much less lodging in someone's chest.
Am I living in a different dimension here or what?
Until now I never HEARD of a 4.5" angle grinder hurting anyone ....I could see having it slice a finger or something but even then I have had wheels break they didn't fly out the way people are describing here.
Help me understand
About 5 years ago I put out a question for anyone who would be willing to give me old dies for me to modify in my endeavor to reload 22lr. Several kind folks sent me some. I have cut ground drilled and TAPPED them. With no tools other than an angle grinder and a drill press. NO PROBLEM.
I had one that was particularly hard but still cut easily with an angle grinder. Maybe I am reeeeeeeeaaly lucky ...but judging by how I see many other people using them....It is not an abberation.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
I cut a Lyman M die body down with a vice and a sawzall. No problems
The M die body is not hardened. It never touches the brass case.
I'd tend to say the Lee dies are case hardened and not tool steel. Case hardening is inexpensive and only penetrates the skin of the part about .001"-.002". Use a file to cut through the outer skin.
Have drilled vent holes in RCBS and Redding dies and they did not appear to be tool steel. Drilled easily once the outer skin was pierced.
I've done it once with a Dremel and cutoff disk. As it happens I maybe cutting a 9mm Taper crimp seat die to crimp my 9x25. More to come on that.
Regards,
Gary
Actually you can lock up a die body after removing everything, in a Bridgeport and cut the top off with a solid carbide end mill. I have made several straight wall sizer dies for my wildcats using that method to remove the shoulder and necks of sizer dies. You chamfer the top cut and done. Easy and safe.
“There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
Cervantes
“Never give up, never quit.”
Robert Rogers
Roger’s Rangers
There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
Will Rogers
I’ve ground them down on my belt sander before. Can’t imagine that a chop saw wouldn’t cut one.
I ground off 50 thou on a Lee 38-40 size die with a grinding wheel. I am a machinist now! Looks like crap but hey, it works.
Carbide end mill in a milling machine....some are harder than woodpecker lips
"Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut." - Ernest Hemingway
Needed to shorten a Dillon SDB .32 die to crimp .30 carbine.
I Drilled a hole in a 4x4 with a wood spade bit and wrapped the die in tape so it fit snug.
Cut it off flush with the wood it was seated in and lightly dressed with a file as cut was maybe 1 degree off square.
Safety glasses, leather gloves of course. Can’t say for sure if the die was hardened steel but it cut & filed with no problem.
I drilled the bored hole so I could lay the cutting disc on the wood surface and plunge cut through the die in one pass.
Last edited by Bmi48219; 12-07-2021 at 11:06 PM.
Good info here. Hope it will save some pain.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |