I want to use a Picatynni rail to mount a scope on my Remington 700, cal. .338 win. mag. Is this type of mount advisable for a rifle with high recoil?
Or is it better to use another type of mount?
I want to use a Picatynni rail to mount a scope on my Remington 700, cal. .338 win. mag. Is this type of mount advisable for a rifle with high recoil?
Or is it better to use another type of mount?
"When the homeland is in danger, everything is allowed, except not to defend it."
Gral. Don José de San Martin.
I use one piece Redfield style Leupold base & rings on my 700.
I use the rings where the screws come up under from the bottom. They look a little smoother.
You'd have a little more room in the ejection port with the the two piece base, but it's never been much of a problem for my .30-06.
If ya really like the Weaver style mount, the rail would work, I just don't care for all the extra slots on them.
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I have had a one piece picatinny rail on my model 70 338 win mag for about 10 years. It's held up just fine with recoil up to the dgs loads.
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Most times its better to get the action length rail.With the extended rail and shorter hunting scope you have to raise the scope pretty high.I have picatinny rails on several guns but lately on hunting rifles I've been using the Burris 2-Piece Xtreme Tactical Scope Base so far been working fine.
Very kind for your help. Thank you....
JLF
"When the homeland is in danger, everything is allowed, except not to defend it."
Gral. Don José de San Martin.
Someone makes steel P'rails (Warne I think); not that an aluminum rail would be any less serviceable.
It's your money and everyone to his own taste but I would prefer Redfield/Leupold two piece bases on that rifle. The .338 is kinda fat and any one piece "bridge" type base covers the magazine and reduces the usable finger room directly under the scope.
I should have led with a question: What is the rifle's purpose in life?
The reason I thought of it was because 1hole brought up "finger room". He's right, it can be flat miserable getting inside the action from the top with a one piece rail. Yes, there are one piece made with a cut out for the action and some very slender ones also. But they both sort of defeat the purpose of a one piece - rigidity, mating the optic to the action as intimately as possible and flex reduction. If you are planning on shooting at average hunting distance and want nothing more than minute of game accuracy - go with the 2 piece. If you're looking for long range paper punching (or hunting for that matter) go with the one piece. I do believe that the target world has drifted too far into the hunting rifle world and the average guy doesn't need sub moa groups or even to worry about such things as I mentioned above.
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The use is for hunting only, and I do not shoot above 100 meters.
"When the homeland is in danger, everything is allowed, except not to defend it."
Gral. Don José de San Martin.
Ck out EGW i have two 1 on a rem 700 and nother on XP 100, fast shipping
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |