If you already have a TorMek grinder, their drill bit accessory is excellent.
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If you already have a TorMek grinder, their drill bit accessory is excellent.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
If you study the geometry and performance behind a factory-sharpened perfectly sharpened twist drill, you will find (if in a drill press or mill) you will get two perfectly identical spiral cuts coming out of the hole you are drilling, one for each flute, each exactly the same size and thickness. You just cannot get that type of accuracy and repeatability with a hand fixture or holding them in your hand.
The drill Doctor technology rigidly holds the drill in a repeatable position (very important for accuracy for both drills and mills) and makes the cuts you need (or don't need). If operated properly, and with a little bit-o-practice, you too can have drills like I described above. And if you "split the point", your drills will start perfectly in the punch mark you made ever time, and not going for a stroll on you work surface!
If those that sharpen by hand only & are happy with their performance, more power to ya! ( I too was trained in a college metallurgy class how to hand sharpen twist drills, but was never happy with their precision or performance.) I just got sick of inaccurate sub-performing hand sharpened twist drills and invested in a DD years ago.................and never looked back.
Best of luck to all.
Like I said, there's more than one Drill Doctor model. The one I had was such a piece of junk, it would make dull bits even duller. The things are made of all plastic and have a ridiculous amount of slop in them. A real industrial drill bit sharpener is steel, and is a precision instrument.
I can take a destroyed drill bit and sharpen it on a bench grinder good enough to drill a hole through plate steel. I can't do the same with a drill doctor.
They've grown.
At the safe company we used a bunch of carbide bits made just for getting into real hard steel, and were big bucks.
They used to use 'em and toss them until the owner of the company saw how many thousands of dollars worth of bits went into the trash.
The company wouldn't let me get the $20,000 Darex sharpener, so I had to settle for the $1800 dollar one.
It was great. The diamond stone wheel in it was about 4" in diameter and cost $350 all by itself,
but it put those cobalt & carbide bits back to factory fresh if one of the kids didn't burn it up & ruin the heat treat on it.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
I bought the (now) $1800.00 dollar model for right around $600.00 at Bossert Machinery in downtown KCMO some 40 years ago. It was expensive but worth it to me. I don't use it now but a couple times a year but it is still handy. Also got the second collet attachment that handles 3/4" bits and a diamond wheel and a "Grind-R-Table (not from Darex).
Look up the paper;
"Drill point geometry" by Joseph Mazoff. He started as an apprentice around 1930. He's,"the guy". You're gonna learn more than you probably want to know on the subject. I have it bookmarked and love referencing it. Too dumb to attach a link.... find it, you won't be disappointed.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
I learned to free hand them in them school!
I have a sharpener that I never use. Since getting it I have learned to sharpen them free hand on either a wheel or with a dremel....(yes a dremel) with a diamond cutting wheel. Absolutely no need for a sharpener. It is not all that hard to learn to sharpen them on a regular grinder.
But there is ONE drill bit sharpener that I would like to have. It is this:
(the word "cheet" in Fin means "stuff". There are no language violations in this video.)
Last edited by Traffer; 10-27-2021 at 02:00 PM.
Was taught how to sharpen a drill bit by hand over 40 years ago, its not that difficult to learn . Its like anything if you know how its easy, it takes lots of practice.
Keep your powder dry and watch your six !!
My grandfather was a young mechanic and welder during the depression. He taught me how to sharpen drill bits but I prefer my Drill Doctor, especially for smaller bits. I sharpen bigger bits on a bench model belt sander.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
I’ve been watching some videos on the Drill Doctor 750. I’m considering getting one, but over here the best price is over 300 in US dollars. Amazon has a 750 and a 750X. The 750X is normally more expensive, but is now on sale for less. What is the difference between 750 and 750X? I would think it is a newer model, but newer models aren’t always better. I would buy one from the US and have it shipped, but it’s 220Volts over here. Any advice?
Thanks.
For entertainment purposes only>>>>This is ME about a year ago. hahahahah
https://youtu.be/Myfv_D-cZOQ?list=TL...MjHQ3jCTK5Q9UQ
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |