Minor problem with MP mould, need solution

[BJK]

My MP mould sprue cutter handle is loose and comes off of the mould. I've tapped it back in place and that works for a time, but eventually it comes off again. It's sorta aggravating.

I can think of 2 solutions and I'm wondering if you had the issue how you fixed it?

My solutions are adhesive (epoxy or hi temp [700°F] silicone) or drilling and pinning it, or both adhesive and pinning it, both at the same time).

Yes, I can weld a piece onto it and use a mallet from then on, but I kinda like the wood handle. Plus the maker designed it to use the wood handle.

I can also live with it and keep putting it in place but that will eat at me and drive me nuts. Not a good solution at all.

I'm not about to jump into a solution. My mind is open. If you've had the problem how did you solve it? Obviously I only want to fix it once and have it last for life.

TIA folks.

[Mk42gunner]

Never had an MP mold, yet, so I'm not familiar with the sprue handle on them.

I have used epoxy to remedy slipping wood handles on both Lee and Lyman mold handles. It works even though the epoxy may get soft with heat, I don't believe it gets hot enough to totally fail.

Robert

[Targa]

I used some gorilla glue and tapped it back into place when I have had these issues. So far so good.

[BJK]

Thanks, but Gorilla glue makes lots of adhesives. Can you narrow it down?

Yeah, I have one that I recently purchased and I have no idea which one it is right now. Do as I say and not as I do, right? But if you could narrow it down I'd appreciate it. I'm heading out to town tomorrow.

[Wheelguns 1961]

You must have a non hp mold with the lee type sprue cutter. Two part epoxy works great.

[358429]

Is one of the eight cavity molds, the third handle to the right keeps coming off? I turn it 90 degrees and tap tap tap it back on. Red high temperature rtv or any of the other adhesives already mentioned work if it's what you have available. The worst that happens if it doesn't work is try something else..

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[Mal Paso]

JB Weld is kind of traditional for mold handles. Surprised no one mentioned it.

[BJK]

Thanks gents. Yes, it's the 8 cavity mould and the 3rd handle to the right. I should have supplied that information. I can't read minds either! What was I thinking?

I'll look into JB Weld tomorrow when we're running errands in town. I've run into that in the past and it strikes me as being non heat sensitive.

[kevin c]

I'm with Mal on the JB Weld. I've used it on both the sprue plate handle and the mold handles, and both have been holding up so far.

[BJK]

I picked up some JB Weld today, says it's good to 550° (or was it 500?) F. It should do. I know of folks who fixed the fireboxes of ceramic kamados with it so I think it'll work.

The following smilie has absolutely nothing to do with the above. I just wanted to use it for kicks.

[NyFirefighter357]

I picked up some JB Weld today, says it's good to 550° (or was it 500?) F. It should do. I know of folks who fixed the fireboxes of ceramic kamados with it so I think it'll work.

The following smilie has absolutely nothing to do with the above. I just wanted to use it for kicks.

They now make an extreme temp JB weld called JB Weld ExtremeHeat.

$10 ExtremeHeat™ is formulated to allow for repairs to iron, steel and metal in high temperature environments (1000°F / 537°C).

https://www.google.com/search?client...d+extreme+heat

[ulav8r]

Back when there was only 1 kind of JB, I used it to repair a leak in the radiator of my truck. The top was separating from the top end ot the tube section. The repair lasted about 2 days. It took several hours to clean out the seam completely. I then soldered the seam and that repair lasted until the truck was sold several years later.

[358429]

That's a pretty good run.

It is almost impossible to glue a radiator shut once it has been opened.

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[Mal Paso]

They now make an extreme temp JB weld called JB Weld ExtremeHeat.

$10 ExtremeHeat™ is formulated to allow for repairs to iron, steel and metal in high temperature environments (1000°F / 537°C).

https://www.google.com/search?client...d+extreme+heat

Nice, Thanks!

Regular JB Weld will crack a little but it hasn't let go yet, maybe 10 years.

Just Read: The High Heat JB Weld is water based single component for metal only, it is not epoxy.

[georgerkahn]

JB Weld is kind of traditional for mold handles. Surprised no one mentioned it.

A big "I can't agree more!!!" with the J-B weld suggestion!!! This epoxy has yet to even slightly disappoint me, much less fail!

[BJK]

Nice, Thanks!

Regular JB Weld will crack a little but it hasn't let go yet, maybe 10 years.

Just Read: The High Heat JB Weld is water based single component for metal only, it is not epoxy.

Thanks. I just ordered it. I need to cancel and keep the 2 part epoxy that I have in hand.

[BJK]

The job is complete, except for the curing. I worked the epoxy around in the hole in the wood to make sure I had good adhesion, and put a few small notches in the metal portion and degreased it. I got good squeeze out. As long as the epoxy doesn't get too hot the repair should be forever.

[Drew P]

Don’t put red rtv on it, that’s not an adhesive it’s a sealant and it will ruin any other glues you try to use afterward. Use jb weld which does come in a high temp version, but clearly isn’t needed for this application. Yes, glue it up and you’ll never worry about it again.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I've used the cheap 2 part epoxy from HF...it's like 99¢...for wood handles on boolit Mold tongs...works just fine.

[gwpercle]

Just don't use the quick setting 5- minute epoxies , even J-B Weld makes one now .
You will get you best strength with two-part , slow setting , slow curing epoxy ...
it usually takes 24 hours to fully cure ... that kind will give the strongest bond .
Gary