Regarding digital variance, I did forget to add one thing I discovered: If you have an electronic wrist watch -- and who doesn't -- take it off! Sounds crazy, but I noticed my scale is sensitive to my fitness watch.
Regarding digital variance, I did forget to add one thing I discovered: If you have an electronic wrist watch -- and who doesn't -- take it off! Sounds crazy, but I noticed my scale is sensitive to my fitness watch.
It's the radio waves from Bluetooth/wireless that cause the problem. A plain electronic watch that isn't connected to anything else shouldn't cause a problem. Also, don't put your phone on the table while you weigh charges.
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In another life I used to be an industrial scale technician, and the best thing I can say is that there's no such thing as a free lunch. Each scale type has its good points and bad points. Which is why mechanical, electronic, and mixed types are still being sold for the particular application they are best suited for. I work in a lab and have mechanical scales and electronic scales of all ranges. When I need extreme precision, the yearly calibrated Mettler balances with sliding covers that take a minute to settle in the microgram range are sweet, but I sure can't afford one of those. For shipping purposes, accuracy to the pound is just fine, so out comes the roll around beam scale with no calibration sticker. Like anything, when we ask what's the best thing, our first response should be "what for?"
When I reload, I prefer the cheap digital jeweler's balances that will read an extra digit, like 4.35 grains instead of 4.4. I like the extra digit of precision that lets me know that my dispenser is drifting. That said, most folks aren't aware that sensitive electronic scales are subject to external influences. Air breezes. Temperature changes. Static electricity on the bench, you, and in the powder. Loose grains getting into the mechanism. Not understanding these influences makes us blame the scale, when it's not the scale's fault at all. This and the human nature to look at every single digit and not know that a 4.35 grains on a two digit scale is exactly the same as a 4.4 display on a single digit scale. You just don't see it. Can a mechanical read 4.35 grains? Sure; can you afford it and are you willing to wait for it to settle?
All that said, everyone has their own reasons for what they like. I don't see one type as superior over the other in general; they have their own strengths. Knowing the differences and understanding which best suits your own needs is the most important part of the selection process.
This thread pretty much confirms that not everybody likes digital scales or trusts them. If you go back to my original post there is an image of my trusted RCBS 304 dial-it beam scale made by Ohaus. Trust me these are as good as it gets for us loaders. RCBS dropped them when the market swerved to digital. My point is, we as end users have a lot of horsepower with honest firms like RCBS. This company listens and has always stood behind their products and science. If there was a demand for high quality dial beam scales they would come back and I guarantee satisfaction would follow.
I have been happy just using a normal reloading scale. They seem plenty accurate.
I do not trust, nor will I used Dillion or any other make of progressive press. I won't buy and use anything made by Lee. Yet they sell like hotcakes despite my distain for them. I do not see progressive presses going away or Lee ramping up quality because of my distain. Such is the way of the world. So, I use what I like and trust and other can do the same.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
Apropos of no one, I can't help but wonder why grumpy web people who have nothing to add to a discussion except to tell the world what they don't like then get so touchy when others simply ask "Why?"
i use gas checks and bullets/boolits as test weights for my battery scale.
Circa 1990 bought an RCBS 5-0-5 (Ohaus origin), which works reliably all the time - every time.
Plugged in a PACT digital in 2000 (never turned it off on purpose). For weighing empty cases, boolits (1 to 10 say), primed cases, and fully prep'd rounds, the PACT digital is FAST-FAST-FAST. You don't want to do those chores with a beam scale.
Circa 2010 bought a (damaged I later learned) RCBS 10-10.
I ran side-by-side tests with a dozen check weights on all three scales - zero grams to 33 grams. At 33 grams (509 grains) the 5-0-5 max's out. There were variations in each of these scales. Checked zero every ten (10) tests. Oddly, the 10-10 had to be zeroed every time it was checked (how I learned it had been damaged - then reliably repaired afterward). The PACT reliably stayed within 0.20 grains, but I do not use the PACT for weighing charges, only verifying the beam scales. The PACT does keep up.
Invest in one (or a dozen) check weights and keep track of scale variations (if any).
For weighing a LOT of cases, boolits, lead, wax, etc., there is the "reasonably calibrated" Big Beam Scale.
BOTTOM LINE
PACT Digital - I love it. It's very FAST and in my case VERY RELIABLE.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I have two questions about the use of your very nice check weight set.
1) Have you ever found a mechanically good condition balance beam powder scale to be off more than .1 grain at any point throughout its range?
2) If you did find a single point calibration error greater than .1 grain, what did (or what would) you do about it?
A1.) No. I have not found a "mechanically sound" beam scale "off".
A2.) I don't consider 0.1 grain to be a significant weight, though I have seen the difference 0.1 grain makes in a measured charge through a specific barrel. I would first attempt to DIY fix the "out of balance" beam scale, which I have accomplished with my 10-10. Failing that, I would obliterate and destroy the offensive scale. I would NOT sell it down the road nor give it to someone else. I would accept the loss at my hand as just another day at the reloading bench, where we KNOW the result of this hobby is NOT saving money, but shooting MORE.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I use electronic for speed but always check with beam scale for accuracy. I have 2 electronic, and they go out of zero quite frequently. I've been told that fluorescent lighting (which is all I have in my re-loading room) will mess with the electronic scales. It does seem to mess with mine. Part way through loading a block of ammo, the zero point will change by 0.2 gr. I'm constantly needing to re-zero. For that reason, when I'm loading bench rest ammo, I check every load on the beam scale. Pistol ammo I check every fifth or so with the beam.
What could possibly go wrong?
Casting and reloading celeb Elvis Ammo did a YouTube review of cheap small digital scales some time ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqORbs242kY
He found the $20 WAOAW beat out the $36 Frankfort Arsenal (and the Lyman) because the WAOAW responded faster and did less "thinking" about what it was weighing.
I bought the WAOAW in 2017 at Amazon, but it's no longer available. It's fast and reliable. Comes with a known calibration weight to keep it honest.
The replacement for the original WAOAW appears to be the same unit, but for $25.
Earlier had purchased the Frankfort Arsenal, but it is slower to finalize the weight:
I know this is out of scope for this thread, but I can't tell you how wonderful the RCBS Chargemaster Lite is.
I use it much more often than I thought for precision powder weights. If I want to throw 40.7 grains of whatever so I can make three or four test rounds, I know they are dead on.
(Loading for the 500 S&W Mag is driving me to precision. Plus or minus a tenth of a grain of Trail Boss in a 3.0 grain charge for Cowboy Action .38 Special is no big deal. But even a slight variation in that 500 handcannon can be very dangerous.)
And even when not throwing powder, the Chargemaster Lite's digital scale is fast and accurate. Comes with calibration weights and a calibration routine as part of its setup, plus a built-in bubble level. Auto-throws the next charge as soon as you replace the pan under the feed/trickle tube.
Great addition to the bench. Highly recommended. What else ya gonna do with your stimmy check?
Even a simple RCBS M500 beam scale is pushing $100 now. And you'll still need a $27 trickler.
I assume nobody here employs a volumetric powder measure of any sort. Or if you do, do you throw the powder into your beam scale pan, then weigh on the beam scale and trickle up to final beam scale precision?
By the way, I still have my RCBS 5-0-5 from 1978.
You can’t really trust a digital scale 100%. Double check your charges with beam scale.
I’ve had and old PACIFIC beam scale for 42 years. It has not failed me yet. I’ve got 3 digitals and they don’t all agree. My RCBS digital always is right on the money with my old faithful.
My two cents.
Lyman 1200 DPS and 505 RCBS, here.
they have been controlling each other since long time ago, but they do not argue often with each other.
I don't need more.
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
I had a Pact. It quit,sent it back they "fixed it" and upon getting it back it worked for maybe 30 seconds. No more Pact anything ever.
Old retired guy in Baton Rouge La.
Beam scale is old reliable, but still checked with weight scale check set to verify.
Tried digital briefly. It crapped out on me and I never went back.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |