Not me but Warner Tool is making a 375 based on a 50bmg. I talked to him and it take 16 steps for the finished case. Too much work for me.
Not me but Warner Tool is making a 375 based on a 50bmg. I talked to him and it take 16 steps for the finished case. Too much work for me.
hardest re-form i've done is 30-06 crimp mouth blanks into 257roberts. i use a 12 step proccess to achieve shootable brass. first is trim off most of the neck in the forster trimmer adapted to a drill. then with 6, 7/8" machine bushings (local hardware store) between the press and lock nut of th FL die with expander and no decap pin then when all pcs of the batch have been through this stage take one bushing out do it again. once all the bushings have been removed put the decap pin back in, deprime then its off to the forster trimmer for final length and then to the othe forster rigged in neck turning.
by the by do take the time to look for dents developing in the shoulder/neck at each stage of the forming.
i form in 77rnd batches and using this bushing method i still have 70 of the original 77 that can now be fire formed to the chamber. single push forming like some people do renders 95% failure rate for me, just my 5 cents worth
Last edited by Littlewolf; 03-24-2018 at 11:27 AM. Reason: type-o
For physical effort, converting 300 Weatherby magnums to 300 H&H takes the most muscle. In the die an eighth of an inch--or less with both hands, back out, turn case a eighth turn, try again about every third try, more imperial wax and keep going. Anneal when all done.
I use a Rockchucker bolted to a half inch thick, six inch wide by 18 inch long steel plate morticed into the bench top with a matching steel backing plate underneath. The bench is anchored to 4x6 posts on each end that go four feet into the ground. There have been times I thought that may not have been beefy enough.
Wow!
My "Bench" is a 8'x2'x1" thick table top made from two layers of 1/2" marine Plywood glued and screwed together and supported on two Tubular formed folding Table Leg assemblies.
My Press is "C Clamped" to the Table edge near one support leg attachment.
The Original 'RCBS JR-3' Press use the same top of stroke and then screw the die in and repeat to Form my first sets of .22 Hornet to .25 Stevens cases; until the JR-3 Ram to lever pivot pin sheared. I was using both hands and standing to get most of my Body Mass onto the straight grip JR-3 Handle and my table top was Flexing down under the forces involved.
I purchased A used 'RCBS RC' press and then fitted it with a New handle (about 4" longer and with a Ball Shaped grip) from an "Ammomaster II".
The Single stage .22 Hornet to .25 Stevens process Effort became less and my yield went up while the Table top[ Flexing went down.
Changing to Multiple swaging steps Greatly improve my yield further; and now, with multiple step swaging and 5.7x28mm Starting cases. it is a relatively easy 'one arm while sitting' effort that is yielding almost 100 percent successful formed cases.
My current process Starts with Once Fired 5.7x28mm brass that I decap and then expand the neck and shoulder with a .250" diameter Expander.
I then change the Shell holder out for a RCBS Small Primer Pocket Swaging Kit Punch, Stripper Cup, and a 3/16" ID Fender Washer spacer and my first stage swaging die and run the cases into it until the top of the rim touches the mouth of the die.
To remove the case from the die I use a Modified Long 3/16 Pin Punch and a 20 oz Hammer.
I repeat the above with each succeeding swaging die until the case body is down final size.
This leaves me with cases that are about 1.230" to 1.260" long depending upon the production age of the cases with older ones yielding longer formed length.
The flash holes are also swaged smaller so need to be drilled out and deburred after drilling. I use a 5/64"(.078") drill bit; and a long body center drill to deburr the hole at both ends.
My Final Preparation Steps are to trim to the desired length and champfer the inside edge case mouth, then 'bell' the mouth slightly to ease bullet seating later.
Chev. William
.338 Spectre from 6.8spc. Had to cut down case, inside neck ream, and outside neck ream. Fun little cartridge to make and shoot. Was a lot easier to form from a 10mm magnum case, just run through sizing die.
45 raptor out of 308 brass just slow and easy annealing in-between
No one mentioned the 7.62X25 from a 223 rem case so I will. It actually caused me pain to shoot them in high grass and loosing one. I sure miss hearing from Grumpa.
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Millions and millions of American shooters and sportsmen got up, went to work, contributed to society in useful and meaningful ways all over the nation and shot no one today! How do they controll themselves?? Experts Baffled....
I LIKE IKE
Converting .56-50 centerfire to rimfire. But now that I have the process down, it's not as hard as it was at first.
geez!!! you guys make me feel small and unimportant!!!!!
i do the '06 cases to 7x57, 8x57, 9.3x57 and 7.65x53 cases.
i also did...
8x57 to 9.3x57.
221 rem fireball to 20 vartarg
22-250 to 6.5 creedmoor
30-30 to 35/30-30
30-30 to 7x30 waters
others done, but don't have
30-40 krag to 35 krag
30-40 krag to 9.3 krag
30-40 krag to 7 krag
30-40 krag to 6.5 krag
30-40 krag to 25 krag
6.5 creedmoor to 35 creedmoor
6.5 creedmoor to 9.3 creedmoor
6.5 creedmoor to 8 creedmoor
6.5 creedmoor to 7 creedmoor
'06 to 313 to 318-06 (type 99 arisaka 30-06, i still have to do this)
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Almost three and a half years, and no one has mentioned the .224 Triple Necked Terror? Ah the things we do when bored and have a well stocked loading bench.
I have made one .22-250 from .30-06, without forming dies; just to say I have done it.
The 6mmx.300 WSM wasn't hard, start with .270 WSM brass to eliminate one step. for forming dies, I cut down a cheap from ebay set of .243 Win dies to size the neck. When the 6mmWSSM dies came out, I bought a sizing die from Redding and left it sitting very high in the press.
.25-20 from .32-20 isn't hard, but it is tedious.
Most of the others I have done aren't really that hard to do, it is mostly figuring out which die to use for any intermediate steps.
Robert
I have a new winner in the "Charles Atlas School of body building and reloading, the 280 Ross.
Having been suckered into believing that you could form 375 Ruger into 280 Ross, I bought 100 pieces of 375 Ruger BASIC brass. With basic brass you are trying to bring down the neck from a straight cylinder ~.525 diameter down to .287. And get the body to taper all the way to the base.
Started with F/L size in 470 N.E.
Then F/L size in 450 N.E.
Then F/L size in 450/400 N.E.
Then tried a variety of other fat silly dies to bring it down further with no success.
Then moved on to the 280 Ross F/L sizer.
The immovable object has thus far been winning.
Have to do some more cogitating on how to shrink the neck and get a silly amount of body taper into this brass.
Or just get some 300 H&H brass, tried two of them, worked wonderfully after the above machinations. Just need to trim to length and see if they will chamber.
my case conversion was 38-56 from 45-70. first sized in a 40-65 then a 38-56 die & then you trim to 2.10
I my case it was a wildcat cartridge I sorta designed. I built a .400 belted Whelen on a Mauser 98 action. I was aware of the headspace problems with the .400 Whelen on a .30-06 case so I designed mine to use .240 Weatherby brass - ergo a belted case. The brass, even then, was expensive. It was long enough ago that I had to decide whether to make it a .411 or a .416. I chose the .411. Boolits were scarce for both. I used Barnes copper tubing 400 grain boolits. The goal was to have a rifle that fired 400 gr boolits at the same speed as a .458 Win Mag fired 500's. Got pretty close, too. The Weatherby brass has significantly less capacity than .30-06 brass. I lost a lot of .240 brass before I figured out how to expand the mouths without either cracking them or pushing the shoulder back. That double radius shoulder would collapse pretty easily. I used that rifle to take the biggest body moose I have ever taken. Wound up with 500 lbs of boned meat.
7mm Rem mag, 300 win mag etc to 43 Spanish for a Remington Rolling Block
making 577 snider and 577/450 Martini Henri from 24 gauge brass shotshells. actually, the 577 snider is easy, the 577/450 is another story....
30-30 to 25-35.
Takes some patience, but I hardly ever lose a case nowdays.
.45-70 to .38-56 but no .40-65 in between, just annealing and lubing going easy. I think I'll try the .40-65 intermediate, that seems to make good sense!
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |