I've seen folks post about using 2 cycle oil for sprue plate lube. I have some partial containers of synthetic auto oil, 4 cycle obviously, that I'd like to use. Has anyone tried this?
I've seen folks post about using 2 cycle oil for sprue plate lube. I have some partial containers of synthetic auto oil, 4 cycle obviously, that I'd like to use. Has anyone tried this?
Use 2 cycle synthetic.
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I use 2 cycle oil or refrigerant oil for my spruce plate.works good
2 stroke oil designed to burn, 4 stroke not. Not sure if 4 stroke oil leaves any additives that affect casting but 2 stroke oil works great. My 2cents
"EXPERT= Ex is a has been, spurt is a drip under pressure" Unknown
I don't think motor oil can take the heat as well.
Back in the old days, motor oil was used as pre-mix for two strokes.
It burned real dirty and ate spark plugs.
Granted, it wasn't synthetic back then, but the higher heat was the main deal with with oil coming along just for 2 stroke fuel.
Something else that should work if you have any of Grandma's 'cure all' castor oil handy.
I think that's what is the oil in model airplane fuel.
It leaves a residue, but not 'gunk' and crud even after high heat combustion.
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OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
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After reading old threads here, I ordered 2 bottles of Bull Plate Lube. The stuff is amazing. And the two bottles are pretty much a lifetime supply, since you literally only need a drop or two to run a mold for many thousands of casts.
There's no way to order it online, just email him here: bullshop@3rivers.net
Just say you want some Bull Plate Lube, it's something like $5/bottle plus shipping, and he'll take PayPal or mailed checks.
And get an oil dropper so you can just put a single drop on the sprue plate hinge.
The stuff is magic.
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A small bottle of synthetic 2-stroke (2.6 oz) is only $1.22 this type holds up at high temperature , it's made to burn with gas and has less residue ... just go with the right stuff . Super-Tech Synthetic 2-Cycle at Wally Mart store .
It's probably what other Mould Makers sell for mould lube .
The $1.22 bottle is about 1/2 a lifetime supply ...use it Sparingly ...I apply with a Q-Tip and sometimes the Q-Tip leaves too much .
It is probably what the mould makers sell as mould lube ... they buy a barrel and sell it in small bottles ... save some money !
Note ... Castor Oil smells Wonky !
Gary
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Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
#2 pencil. Works great. Lube the bolt & pins with syn. 2 stroke. Eco AC oil will build up, get hard and almost impossible to remove. Get it on the mould halves and you get un-round bullets.
Whatever!
For sprue plate lube, try Permatex high-temp brake caliper slide lube, the stuff in the green bottle. It's a high-temp synthetic grease that has no drop point, meaning it won't melt, ever. It will reach it's flame temperature without slumping or "dropping" as it's called. Just use a q-tip to apply after you get fill out on all your cavity. You can get it at most auto parts stores.
Use full synth 2 cyl oil.
Open that dusty wallet and spring for the $2.50 2.6 oz container, it will last for years.
Use the auto motor oil for something else.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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So far I have always used dry graphite powder. Always works. Applied with an ear bud its not messy, but don't drop it on the carpet.
I use the oil intended for AC compressors. If it ever runs out I'll get some 2 cycle oil. But a single drop will lube a 4 cavity mold so the small bottle I have may outlast me.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |