Deburr primer flash hole inside new Starline brass (handgun cart)

[pertnear]

I deburr flash-holes & uniform primer pockets on rifle brass but never on pistol brass. Life's too short...........

[saturn]

Debur rifle brass only,and also uniform primer pockets. Never noticed any gain doing pistol brass so I don't do anything to them.

[Three44s]

All of my metallic cases get the treatment. I do not care what names get thrown at the practice or my choice.

I do not shoot buckets of ammo at a single setting but I want consistency. If I am shooting lots of rounds then it is more likely handgun and rimfire.

My experience with the practice began with varmint cartridges and wanting to squeeze groups to the minimum as most were likely drawn to it that do the practice here.

Later, I was curious as I was loading some red dot in 38 special but firing in 357 I believe and wanting better clean up. I noticed a much cleaner burn with debured cases than non-debured and that caught my attention.

Still later, I was working HS6 powder and 38 cases with my Ruger SP101 357. The goal was to raise my point of aim and I wanted a slower dwell time per my gunsmith’s recommendation to achieve that goal rather than filling the front sight down with 125 gr JHP.

Raising the POI was a success and to counter dirty cases I debured the flash holes.

Next was my experimentation with the 44 Mag. and HS6 and the RCBS 250K. I was loading according to the Hodgdon’s #26 which lists a range from 10 to 12 grs. When I settled on 11.8 gr I broke out the chrono and was getting standard deviations of just 7 FPS.

So now I was at a cross roads. Do I just debur certain handgun and rifle brass and try to keep it sorted or just set up for all of it by getting efficient? I chose processing everything that was my sphere of usage.

There are two kinds of cases in my spread, processed and yet to be done. The “yet to be done” is brass I have not previously loaded.

When I grab a case it may get a more difficult to ignite powder or it may be stuffed with an easy one and I do not want to worry about pressure spikes in begining with undebured brass and then encountering a debured one when using fast powders. I do not want to create any variation either. I also want my powder to deliver bang for the buck as well.

I could have easily drawn the line at cartridges like 9 mm etc. but even there I switch to slower powders from time to time and the other issue is uniform ignition with smaller charges of powders that may be more sensitive to position in the case.

And that sums up my .02 worth

Three44s

[Randy Bohannon]

During my performance engine building days the thought that highly polished valves and cylinder head and piston top surfaces were/are able to spread products of combustion quickly and evenly over a smooth surface better than a rough one. The same applies in a cartridge , less obstruction in the path of the primer flame path more consistent extreme spreads and standard deviation .

[leadhead]

When I was shooting hand gun silhouette, (shot for 22 Years) I did all my handgun brass.
Don't know if it helped or not, but I won my share of matches.
Denny

[Minerat]

I do all my rifle cases from 300wby to the 17HH. No pistol.

[Three44s]

I guess it can be summed up by comparing the terms “reloading” vs. “handloading”, it certainly fits with varmint cartridges but less so with handgun.

With my 788 Remington in .22-250 and my Liberty M77 V in .243 deburing shaves a consistent 20-25% off my groups and you only do it once!

With my revolvers I am sure for most loads I get more internal satisfaction knowing I have taken those cases to their best form and I have few losses of empties.

An auto loader is somewhat different as you are always struggling to find that last hand full of fired cases and the benefit is less tangible.

But one thing cuts across all the various cartridges and that is with exceptions to some brands of brass they are all punched through from the pocket to the interior and that leaves a gaude awe full goober for the flame to navigate around, and it will lay this way then another the next shot.

Three44s

[mdi]

I have a lot of time for reloading stuff since I retired, and I occasionally do some things considered a waste of time by some, but I ain't that bored (deburring handgun brass flash holes)...

[Three44s]

I have a lot of time for reloading stuff since I retired, and I occasionally do some things considered a waste of time by some, but I ain't that bored (deburring handgun brass flash holes)...

LOL!

I chuck my tool in a drill and it takes longer to pick up the next case than it does to start it in the tool and perform the operation. But I have no qualms either way. My point is that while I could have been fine with just some handgun brass debured, it takes longer to sort it out of the non-debured cases than it did to just run everything through and not worry about causing an artificial inconsistency.

Three44s

[SwissShooter]

I uniform primer pockets, run a # drill in and then deburr (using a cordless drill)---- BUT only for serious long range rifle steel banging. OR you can just buy Nosler brass that is already prepped.

[Taterhead]

Heck no. I've never de-burred a flash hole on a handgun case. Starline cases arrive pretty well finished, and I've never noticed a "hanging chad" around the interior of the flash hole.

[Winger Ed.]

I do rifle brass except the 5.56 for a AR.
I've never done the flash hole or trimmed any handgun brass.

[Dave C.]

As A bullseye shooter I am always looking for more accuracy. Don't waste your time. Use it to dry fire.

[kayala]

I've bought a lot of once fired 7.62x39 brass and after breaking 3 decapping pins I've invested in Lyman deburring tool

[Three44s]

I've bought a lot of once fired 7.62x39 brass and after breaking 3 decapping pins I've invested in Lyman deburring tool

That is another plus as you create a “funnel effect” for your de-capping pin to enter the flash hole.

Three44s