got 33 pieces that need stripped of bluing...red vinegar?
got 33 pieces that need stripped of bluing...red vinegar?
Probably anything that's acidic will.
I wanted to clean some rust off a barrel one time and reached for some well diluted HCL (Hydrochloric acid)
that ya can get any where they sell basic swimming pool supplies-- like Home Depot.
Along with the rust- it ripped the bluing off as fast you see on the TV commercial
where they dip a old Silver spoon in the glass of their stuff.
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Birchwood- Casey Bluing Remover
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I agree with TbG....I use Birchwood-Casey Blue Remover as well. Its worked fine for me.
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Muratic acid for swimming pools works instantly. Wipe it on and wipe the bluing off. It is just that fast, and does a great job.
Evap-o-rust
QUIS CUSTODIET IPSOS CUSTODES?
Naval Jelly . . . . If they still sell it!
thanks team!
Naval Jelly will do it ... even when you don't mean to remove the blue ...but I would use the Birchwood Casey Bluing Remover .
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White vinegar.
If you add Hydrogen peroxide to it it works even faster.
Or water diluted Muratic Acid.
I use both for taking off bluing and Rust.
Naval Jelly is what I use to use and is great if you need to work on a spot and not the whole part because it is thicker.
Cheapest and most available is the vinegar.
For doing barrels , I just put a cap on one end of PVC pipe and stand it up in a bucket of dirt, then let the barrel soak overnight.
Plug the bore!
Ultrasonic cleaning will rip it off in a hurry. Im going to have to re-blue a couple of sets of mold handles because I tried US cleaning on the blocks with the handles still attached.
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What LAGS said-- white vinegar. It takes a little time (30 min or so) but does not attack the metal, or your fingers, or the wood
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Good to know. My solution was a home made solution of vinegar, water, dawn, and lemishine.
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Happiness is a warm .45
Some basics here https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=10702
I use a commercial cleaning solvent. A lot of the ultrasonic solvent are for brass cleaning and not recommended for firearms.
Last edited by M-Tecs; 03-03-2020 at 11:30 PM.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when you reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
I guess I am an Old Gunsmith.
But I learned it from watching my Grandfather re blue guns when I was a kid.
He was an Old Gunsmith Too
I spilled some orange juice on a gun once the bluing came right off the spot were it spilled.
Any Acid will remove Bluing.
Or Rust for that matter.
Citric acid works slower than Vinagar , and a lot slower than Muratic or Hydrochloric acid.
But they are still all acids.
And bluing in fact , is Rust.
You just don't want an acid strong enough to Etch the metal.
Straight Muratic acid or Hydrochloric acid will do that.
But Citric acid or Vinager will remove Bluing or rust , without etching the metal.
Use Ammonia to remove Copper fouling in the bore.
But don't let it soak overnight , unless the bore is less than Perfect.
It will loosen lead too , but not Remove it
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |