Soft nosed hard cast.

[Hossfly]

I’m going to try this method with 30-06, next time I’m casting, just for fun and see how it works. I do have 2 pots. An old Lyman 10# will melt stick on ww, and Lee 4-20 with ww. Might work we’ll see.

[Lead pot]

The Ideal moulds had some two alloy moulds https://castbulletassoc.org/download...20-%201929.pdf
The black powder cartridge rifle shooters should take note with some of these old ideal GG bullets that we're made for shooting in fouled barrels without fouling control. (shooting dirty) not just the lube grooves but also the shapes of the ogives.

[Hossfly]

I’m going to try this method with 30-06, next time I’m casting, just for fun and see how it works. I do have 2 pots. An old Lyman 10# will melt stick on ww, and Lee 4-20 with ww. Might work we’ll see.

[Lead pot]

Depending what type ogive you want, maybe a round nose to take advantage of a soft point you might try using some lead Buck Shot. Making two pours you will never get consistency + or -.Buckshot will lay in the center of the mould making contact on all sides.
#4 buck is .240" #3 is .250" but for a good soft round nosed .30 caliber I would use #1 buck it's .300" 0 buck is .320"

[Lloyd Smale]

ya pc made most of this unnessisary. You can cast a 5050 ww/pure bullet pc it and push it about as fast as you want. Plenty fast enough for any handgun load.

No it doesn't bond them . That's the fly in this ointment. Some have tried a soft measured nose cast quickly followed by the hard base cast hopefully getting the two to bond...iffy at best.
Lyman made two moulds, cast the nose soft, the base hard and glue them together with epoxy...
notice they are no longer sold .
Your best bet is a 50/50 lead and COWW , air cooled , good lubricant and a gas check .
In the hunting section you will see Deer taken with these boolits and the results are impressive.

Hardness is way over rated in a boolit...you can do a lot with a properly fitted boolit and good lubricant . Hard boolits are not the cure all .
Gary

[white eagle]

I'll just use a gas check

let me explain further
I was in a frenzy over this to but I could never get
satisfactory results there were parting line's and after
time the boolits tips would actually fall off
unless there is a mechanical way to bond the two alloys
together I will stick with using a softer alloy and a gc with pc

[country gent]

Smaller bullets don't have the mass to hold heat like the bigger bullets do Keeping the mould hot is the key doing the 2 pour I hace let the blocks rest in the alloy of the pit between the nose pour and base pour also to hold heat. maybe on 30 cal sized this would help also. running the pure lead with a little tin ( the tin will aid in the bonding) slightly hotter than normal and soaking in the harder alloy pot while the base pour is done and given a 10-20 sec "soak" before allowing to cool will help.
I have seen moulds that one cavity cast the nose with a stem on it the second cavity is the complete bullet. Nose is poured from pure lead then moved to second cavity and harder alloy added and the next nose is poured. process is repeated, Its more tedious and moving the noses around in the hot mould is tricky. On a 30 cal mould the stem would probably be around 3/16" dia. some had shallow grooves to make a mechanical lock to the nose base joint. These moulds cast good bullets but the keeper rate was lower do to issues getting nose set in next cavity and fill around stem.

Working with the calibrated ladle and pots casting hot and fast worked for me.

[Lloyd Smale]

Have to agree. I did it in 500 475 and 4570 molds that were all steel and they had to be kept HOT to get good results. I doubt your going to keep something like a 30 cal mold hot enough. don't even waste your time with aluminum molds. If I wanted a mold to specifically do soft nosed bullets id buy it in brass.

[Devon]

Just snagged these. Should be fun to play with. Ideal 321297 Nose and Ideal 321297 mold.

[GLynn41]

I have killed ground hogs and deer with DABS--dual alloy boolits My Lyman 410459 soft points the whole nose of the boolit does great-- maybe a good balance of mold blocks and heat??
My Brass Mountain mold does really well-- 257 gr lwngc soft points
An SSk 275 was also very good.
I use 2 pots with soft lead in one// harder lead in the other. I used .380 -9 mm for a dipper-- I cut them down until they held the lead I wanted--
Closed the mold and moved the sprue plate open and poured in the soft and then closed the sprue plate and cast as normal
I only do it for a few hunting slugs -- and then keep the best. and practice with the rest

[Shuz]

Just snagged these. Should be fun to play with. Ideal 321297 Nose and Ideal 321297 mold.

I have one of the Lyman 2 mould sets similar to yours and the designation is 429625. The little tail on the nose portions helps grip the harder alloy when poured on top. I've cast the noses outta pure lead and then dropped them cold into a 429650 mould that normally casts a 300g boolit. Weight ended up 317g and were fed with 17g of WC 820 for a chrono'd velocity of 1120fps outta 5" S&W 629 Classic DX. Accuracy was nothing special as I recall, but since I still have some loaded up, I'll resurrect this project again after all the snow melts....prolly July this year!

[njc110381]

So it seems this may be a fairly difficult process with light bullets. It's worth considering that what I'll be casting will weigh in the 350-450gr range, .416 diameter. I would have thought with a hot mould I'll have enough time to do a soft pour then follow up with harder alloy before the nose sets as long as I'm reasonably quick?

[lightman]

About 40yrs ago, Lyman came out with a 2 mold concept. A sort of hollow point base, cast of LINOTYPE.
A Rear pointed nose section to be cast of pure LEAD.

Then you epoxied the two pieces together.

A Hard bearing surface with a Soft expanding nose.

Didn't work too well, getting the two pieces glued together, a Balanced Bullet was just about impossible.

So accuracy was none existence.

You beat me to it but I was going to mention this. I tried it and you are correct about the accuracy. The mold was also hard to cast with. It required a lot of patience and skill to get good fillout. Todays glues and adhesives might make a difference, but the mold was still hard to cast with.

[fredj338]

Would it not be easier to cast your hard alloy bullets, then stand them up in water & temper the nose in an oven?

[GLynn41]

Yep it would seem--- have not tired that yet

[Beerd]

So it seems this may be a fairly difficult process with light bullets. It's worth considering that what I'll be casting will weigh in the 350-450gr range, .416 diameter. I would have thought with a hot mould I'll have enough time to do a soft pour then follow up with harder alloy before the nose sets as long as I'm reasonably quick?

with that bullet as described, and a wide flat nose, is there really a need for a soft point?
..

[Lead pot]

Attachment 237447
The left two are my soft points. They work great.

[Mike W1]

Been a long time back and my memory might be leading me astray but I have it in my head that WAY back LBT did some mod on a furnace that let you pour the nose of the bullet and you followed it up with another furnace with the harder alloy. Hope I'm not losing it in older age.

[725]

Never did it myself, but I've heard of dropping an air rifle pellet into the mold and then casting over it. The soft pellet melts readily and is backed by whatever alloy you just poured over it. I might try it myself.

[Lloyd Smale]

i believe he made so two part molds too.

Been a long time back and my memory might be leading me astray but I have it in my head that WAY back LBT did some mod on a furnace that let you pour the nose of the bullet and you followed it up with another furnace with the harder alloy. Hope I'm not losing it in older age.