What he said, I have pulled cases back out and lubed/turned numerous time before I got them all the way in to the die. 300 Weatherby to 300 H&H takes a bunch of small moves. I suspect that if I tried it all in one shot the die would go back to RCBS to have the case removed because I doubt I could have gotten it back out.
For inside a case mouth I've used powdered graphite, that works.
For heavy case forming (243 from 308 or 45 ACP Shotshells) I used to use a moly disulphide lube, I wish I remembered the brand name (2/3 gal or so can size, white iirc with green type?) It was stolen just too long ago. Family members . . .
Lanolin WORKS too; Heard of all kinds of other lubes too; Try one out & you may just like it
When making my .416 Taylor brass from Hornady 45 mag basic brass I use both Imperial ( now Redding) lightly on the outside of the case mouth AFTER first dipping the case mouth in motor mica or extra fine ground graphite for inside lubrication.Robert
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |