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Thread: 586 Value

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I'd offer no more than $400.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    My biases--I don't care much about finish, but fit and function gotta be at least decent before I'll even consider a buy.
    I'm with you on that. I had a nickel 4" model 29-2 that I really liked. It looked rough but shot great. On a gun I'm going to use I really don't mind finish wear and imperfections. That particular .44 was stolen in '99, so If anyone ever runs across a 4" nickel 29 that doesn't look pretty, contact me and I'll dig out the serial number.

    As to what the 586 in question is worth; I don't have much to contribute. I think I paid $250 for mine, but that was a few years ago. OK, more than just a few.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    Appreciate everyone's inputs. Always good to get value estimates from each person's widely varied experience.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Both 9.3X62AL and I have the same memory about the early L-frame S&W's. The challenge these firearms faced was when someone in S&W's engineering section decided the L's should carry the large size hammer nose and bushing. Primer flow into the hammer nose bushing (in the frame) locked up the cylinder until the user could untie it. Not a good thing on a LEO duty or citizen's personal protection firearm. In order to expedite their corrections to these firearms, S&W issued (free) kits of tools and parts to LE armorers and recognized gunsmiths and shops. The kits included replacement small size hammer noses, rivets, frame bushings, tools to remove-replace-stake the new bushings in the frame, and a punch with a specific insignia on it. They also issued quantities of Federal 357 ammo (158 grain JSP) for proof testing the firearm after the work was completed. Once the correction was completed the insignia punch was used to mark the frame inside the yoke window where it could be seen when the cylinder was opened from the frame. I'm trying to recall the insignia was a letter, but it has been too long since I handled those tools to recall. The parts and correction service were available without cost to the firearm owner. The armorers and gunsmiths who completed these tasks were not compensated, but were appreciated.

    As for the revolver in this thread, have it inspected by any armorer or 'smith who remembers those conversions. They should be able to quickly determine if that conversion has been completed on your specific firearm. If it has, all is well. If it has not, either the S&W factory or perhaps a very experienced (read that as senior) LEO armorer (hopefully one who way in service when these tools were issued) could make that change for you.

    Thin Man

  5. #25
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9.3X62AL View Post
    I admit to CONSIDERABLE positive prejudice that favors the L-frame S&W 357 Magnums greatly. I have a 1990-range 686 x 4" that I prize highly and carry a great deal. I am rehabbing a Bianchi X-15 shouler rig currently as its primary carry rig. Those elastic tesion bands don't last forever. I just stumbled onto a chance at a 586 x 6" of similar vintage that can be acquired via trade in March, and I am pretty sure I will make that move. Yes--new-production S&W revolvers are still made, though with glory holes and MIM parts. It took me quite a while to warm up to Glocks, and I still haven't warmed up to revolver locks or MIM parts. (I'm none too enthused about Ford pickups with recycled beer can body metal, either). In short, new things need to come in small dosage units for me, or I will choke on them. The family-involved sale price is a wild card I won't deal, but as it sits assuming good mechanical function a figure of $400-$450 seems fair to me sitting here in Californistan as a private-party sale price. My biases--I don't care much about finish, but fit and function gotta be at least decent before I'll even consider a buy.
    I love the L frames too. My 686 came to me in a trade and it shoots like a rifle from day 1. It really loves 180 gr boolits. Here is a 50 yd target with 180's. Hated to put a scope on it but the results speak for themselves. Nannyhammer,, I traded a Model 48 S&W that I had $425 tied up in and we both left happy.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy sharpshooter3040's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nannyhammer View Post
    All, Needing help from those with S&W knowledge. I came across the 586 in the pictures below. As you can see from the photos it has some damage. Overall the gun is mechanically sound but a little ugly. Not sure if it's a dash or a no dash model but the S/N is reportly AJBXXX. What would you value the gun at if you were buying from a family member.





    Attachment 184659Attachment 184660
    I have owned several of these over the years distinguished combat magnums. When they first came out I believe in the 1980's S&W was owed by the Lier Siegler group kind of the beginning of the dark times for S&W. I bought one as soon as the came available. The fit and finish was horrible. Burrs on the chambers tool marks in the rebound slide area. Later models were better. These were never big dollar guns, even though they were a very attractive piece especially in full target attire. Your gun in my opinion is a 300.00 gun as a shooter. Around here (Ohio)I have seen very nice examples for the 5-600 dollar range


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  7. #27
    Boolit Mold
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    I wish we had some 300-400 $ Smiths around here. I haven,t seen a .357 of any brand in any condition for that.

  8. #28
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by shovelhead96 View Post
    I wish we had some 300-400 $ Smiths around here. I haven,t seen a .357 of any brand in any condition for that.
    I'm in Kansas & I concur.

  9. #29
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    I'm in Iowa and I concur also.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy sharpshooter3040's Avatar
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    They are out there if you look. You don't see them too much in the shops because they are a tough sell. It is true the market is a lot tougher now and deals are harder to find but they are out there


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  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy sharpshooter3040's Avatar
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    There are a couple on gun broker less than 500 that are in decent shape. A lot of pricey asking but no bidders.


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  12. #32
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    Off the top of my head the mark that was stamped on the L-frames to indicate the firing pin bushing had been replaced was a "M".

    Considering that L-frames aren't all that rare, I would pass on that one posted by the OP unless he can get it really cheap. Even if that gun was mechanically sound I wouldn't dump a lot of money into it.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by shovelhead96 View Post
    I wish we had some 300-400 $ Smiths around here. I haven,t seen a .357 of any brand in any condition for that.
    Yep, unless you stumble into one the days of good used $300 revolvers are pretty much done. I feel lucky that I acquired my externally imperfect example.

    Rough looking model 10's are more than that in my area.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy sharpshooter3040's Avatar
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    Unfortunately it seems a lot of gunshops are using GunBroker asking prices as the litmus test regardless of whether or not they sell. I see those prices around here too. However try to sell one of the rough looking model 10's to them and see what you are offered. If you are vigilant and not in a hurry good deals can be found from individuals that don't want to get screwed by the big box gunshops or have endless "picker type " prices the big dealers ask on gunbroker


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  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy sharpshooter3040's Avatar
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    Bear in mind the value of a gun is only worth what someone will pay for it, depending if you are on the buying or selling end. If I'm assessing the value of a piece I'm going to assess it at what a dealer is going to give you for it. I have about 29 years of retail experience, that's how it has worked for as long as I can remember depending on supply and demand.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check