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Thread: Still in the dark after reading many posts

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Still in the dark after reading many posts

    There is just so much info in the threads on Powder Coating that I'm finding it hard to sort out where to begin.

    First, with regards to the powder itself, do the colors have different properties that would make one color better than another for a certain application?

    Is one brand better than another?

    I gather from what I have read that #5 plastic containers are best for tumbling????

    Are curing temperatures and time critical to success?

    Is the hammer test the best indication of the end product?

  2. #2
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    1) it is not the color that makes any difference but the composition of the powder, especially with the harbor freight colors that effects the process for best applying.

    2)It seems that the powder from smoke ( a user here) gives the best results with harbor freight red being a close second.

    3) for shake and bake #5 containers cause the best charge to keep the powder on the bullets.

    4) curing temps should be what ever the powder calls for, this will create the most robust coating. The hammer test just shows you that the powder has cured onto the bullet and will not be coming off.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    DerekP Houston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polar_Hunter View Post
    There is just so much info in the threads on Powder Coating that I'm finding it hard to sort out where to begin.

    First, with regards to the powder itself, do the colors have different properties that would make one color better than another for a certain applications
    For using a "spray gun" most powders seem to work just fine. If you are doing the "dry tumble" then there have been people who tested which colors work best for this method. HF red is the cheapest/easiest to find locally to start out with. Smoke (vendor on the forum) sells a "starter" kit of 4 colors 1/4lb each + BB's. That has everything you need and all of his colors (except matte black) have been tested with dry tumbling

    Is one brand better than another?
    YES! Either powderbythepound or smoke's powders are much "fluffier" and get better coverage *for me.* Sometimes we hit 100% humidity. I had no issues using the HF red though, I just wanted more colors to play with.

    I gather from what I have read that #5 plastic containers are best for tumbling????

    I had no problems using a regular plastic container, but I did switch to #5 containers as I found them. They seem to generate the most static and best coverage. IIRC we found a set of "gladwear" that were #5 containers and I stole all the ~2 cup sizes for boolit shaking.

    Are curing temperatures and time critical to success?

    Less critical than with Hitek coating, but still important to get it up to 400f and hold it for at least 10 minutes. I preheat my oven when i'm ready to start coating, I start a 20 minute timer from when I put the tray in. Other people watch for the powdercoat to turn "shiny" meaning it is starting to melt and up to temp. Then they set a timer for 10 minutes from there. The main issues for getting proper powdercoat bonding to the boolits is that they are clean and free of grease.

    Is the hammer test the best indication of the end product
    I smash a few every now and then, but after doing a couple batches you know what they are supposed to look like. Gently tap the excess powder off them as you put em on your tray of non-stick foil and bake away.
    Please see responses above in red.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy ryokox3's Avatar
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    Just a couple additions,

    You must get an oven thermometer. They are about 10 bucks on amazon, and I'm sure at your local stores. Taylor brand tends to get good reviews. Most ovens do not hold the correct temp according to the dial. I run 2 added thermometers in mine, a typical one, and a probe style like you might use on the grill.

    I always hammer test a bullet from each batch. Cheap insurance.

    The oven you use should never be used for food again.

  5. #5
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    DerekP Houston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryokox3 View Post
    Just a couple additions,

    You must get an oven thermometer. They are about 10 bucks on amazon, and I'm sure at your local stores. Taylor brand tends to get good reviews. Most ovens do not hold the correct temp according to the dial. I run 2 added thermometers in mine, a typical one, and a probe style like you might use on the grill.

    I always hammer test a bullet from each batch. Cheap insurance.

    The oven you use should never be used for food again.
    Spot on 100%, I drilled a hole in the side of my oven and run a thermocouple to my PID for temp control. The dial thermometer on mine set to 400f melted my first batch of boolits.

  6. #6
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    If you search out smoke's thread he does give very good directions on how to get started. I would say just try some if they get messed up put em in the melting pot! I am pretty new at the whole process also and its easier than it seems or sounds.

    Pull the pin see what happens
    "Yes or no will almost always suffice as the answer"

  7. #7
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    while all will provide PC coverage to the bullet some of the light colors will allow 'show through.' Darker colors do a better job of complete color coverage
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  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the help.

  9. #9
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    PID is the way to go in my opinion. I've had 3 cheap toaster ovens and none were close to the dials.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    I think guys are over thinking this. The guys here have given very clear steps & tools to use to get perfect results the first time. I have used HF red & a couple diff colors from Smoke, all work well shake & bake if applied per directions given here.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  11. #11
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    DerekP Houston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredj338 View Post
    I think guys are over thinking this. The guys here have given very clear steps & tools to use to get perfect results the first time. I have used HF red & a couple diff colors from Smoke, all work well shake & bake if applied per directions given here.
    Eh that's the nature of the beast. Most 'loaders that I've met are fond of tinkering with things or seeing how it all works together. It appears he put the effort in and asked good questions though, so I'll help anyway I can. I thought reloading was so damn confusing until I sat down with someone.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekP Houston View Post
    Eh that's the nature of the beast. Most 'loaders that I've met are fond of tinkering with things or seeing how it all works together. It appears he put the effort in and asked good questions though, so I'll help anyway I can. I thought reloading was so damn confusing until I sat down with someone.
    The process outlined is stupid simple. If you follow directions, it works. I just don't see how people get confused. My wife's makup routine has more steps than PC bullets.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  13. #13
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    I use all HF colors (including black) and Smoke's blue with BBDT and ESPC (black only ESPC), bake at 400F for 10 min after the powder turns shiny, air cool, size and load. ONE coat ONLY. lighter colors do not cover well just like paint, but the resin is there, just not the pigment.

    Only matte colors will give you a no-go with BBDT. Every other powder I have tried works GREAT. Been doin' this for WELL over 3 years now.

    I use a new OSTER digital convection oven that maintains ~±3F in a HUGE cavity that will hold well over 400 boolits. Do not trust a standard oven to maintain the temps we must have for quality coats. Check your oven with at least 2 oven thermometers. Use a controller if you must, but I sure do not see the need when there are quality ovens out there that work great. Mine cost ~$80 at WalMart. By the time you buy the controller and all the carp needed to make it work and all your time piecing it together with bubblegum and piano wire, you have just spent the money for a Rube-Goldberg setup.

    Just buy a good Oster digital oven. Get perfect boolits every time.

    banger

    banger

  14. #14
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    If you get confused with powder coating than you best not start reloading, its far more complicated and a mistake can cause bodily injury.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy ryokox3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredj338 View Post
    I think guys are over thinking this. The guys here have given very clear steps & tools to use to get perfect results the first time.
    Here is my personal concern about that. Where are the instructions you mention? I mean I know where to find it, but if I were just starting and came here I'm presented with 12 stickies. Sure a couple are obviously not instructions like the picture thread ,or the one post sticky telling us that this is the place for PC/hitek (seriously its time for that one to go away).

    Next lets look at the most likely place, The sticky called powder coating bullets. It is 118 pages long. A trick for tumble coating is another and it is 39 pages of threads. It is simply overwhelming to a newbie and I fully understand how easy it is to get lost.


    IMHO we need to revamp the stickies on this to have one that shows how to Hi-Tek, one for ESPC, one for dry tumbling. Possibly also one for piglet, the rest should go into a sub forum to serve as a quick find reference. Once the basics are made we should lock the threads so they do not bloat like the current ones have. After that people can see how to do it, and ideas /questions/ new experiments can be in their own standard topics.

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub Team Termath's Avatar
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    Sometimes it's not easy to visualize what ya ain't never seen before. Maybe this link will help.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post3650539
    Then just dive in... there's nothin' about powder coatin' that can't be undone with a lead melting pot... go for it.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryokox3 View Post
    Here is my personal concern about that. Where are the instructions you mention? I mean I know where to find it, but if I were just starting and came here I'm presented with 12 stickies. Sure a couple are obviously not instructions like the picture thread ,or the one post sticky telling us that this is the place for PC/hitek (seriously its time for that one to go away).

    Next lets look at the most likely place, The sticky called powder coating bullets. It is 118 pages long. A trick for tumble coating is another and it is 39 pages of threads. It is simply overwhelming to a newbie and I fully understand how easy it is to get lost.


    IMHO we need to revamp the stickies on this to have one that shows how to Hi-Tek, one for ESPC, one for dry tumbling. Possibly also one for piglet, the rest should go into a sub forum to serve as a quick find reference. Once the basics are made we should lock the threads so they do not bloat like the current ones have. After that people can see how to do it, and ideas /questions/ new experiments can be in their own standard topics.
    Thank you, you hit the nail right on the head!

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Termath View Post
    Sometimes it's not easy to visualize what ya ain't never seen before. Maybe this link will help.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post3650539
    Then just dive in... there's nothin' about powder coatin' that can't be undone with a lead melting pot... go for it.
    "Powder Coated Bullet Pics Only" ,,, the one place that I did not look,,, LOL . Thanks

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check