I was impressed with Sage's .010" half hard 35 cal. al. checks when i tried them. They shoot just as good and actually go on tighter than the .014
al. checks that i make.
You may or may not have to do a bit of experimenting with different materials or thickness for best accuracy, but it's worth it once found.
Since your getting Pat's tool, i'd just start with what he reccomends for it for your cal. Lol i use one of Charlie's original hammer tools and love it because i can make checks anywhere i've got a hard surface. It's definitely slower than using a reloading press or an arbor press. Makes a perfect check though.
You'll like being able to make your own checks.
"We at Sages use FCIII tools in pneumatic presses."
Good, because I have a lot of your checks.
My presses would smash PM's check makers along with the press to scrap metal. Can't believe everthing you read on the internet! Vulcan makes copper checks,we at Sages make aluminum Plain Base checks by the zillions. Can't keep up! We also sell Gator checks. I'm going deer hunting next week ,shipping will be sloooooow!
UOTE=6622729;3472072]That can't be right?! I read on the Internet that you use PatMarlin's punches. You must be mistaken. lol. In any case, your copper gas checks for the 30 caliber are fitting my Lee 312-155 cast boolits perfectly! Very nice.[/QUOTE]
I have both Pats and Charlies tools. If you want to make a bunch of checks fast for standard gas check shank bullets then you want to go with Charlie tool in my opinion. However if you want to make checks for plain base boolits then you want Pat's tool. I have used Pat's tool to make a .014" aluminum checks and while it worked it was slower to use. Free checks can use a larger range of metal thickness then can Pats tool. I do believe that Pats tool creates a higher quality check due to cutting from the center of the aluminum strip while Charlie's tool cuts from the edge of the strip. Sometimes if you're not careful with Charlie's tool your check will not be perfect due to the metal strip not being inserted all the way into the cutter. I have had exact similar results with accuracy with either tool depending on the attention used while making checks.
Meh! Same thing can be said about Pats if you do not feed the material in far enough. Tools should not be blamed for operator errorCharlie's tool cuts from the edge of the strip
That is true. Retumbo.
But what is said is still true. As far as how each tool works. I also stated that I have had comparable accuracy from checks out of either tool as long as user pays attention to process. Trying to definativley say one is better than the other would be same as saying one type of boolit design is better than another. It is all a matter of preference. Not grade of tool. Each one has its uses that outshines the other in one way or another.
Just pointing out that if you don't insert the material correctly in either one it will affect the quality of the check.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |