2006 Ford 250 Super Duty with gas engine. Engine turns over fine but won't start. Tried many time the last couple days. I started the usual checks (listening for sound of fuel pump, checking fuses, checking for spark, etc.....) decided to give it a short shot of starting spray and it started right up and runs just fine. Have shut it off and it starts up again. Any ideas what might cause this? (Besides being a Ford) Second time in the last 2 weeks.
Fuel line.
Fuel filter?
Once your engine starts, it seems like it has the vacuum necessary to continue, so the fuel filter or pump I a good place to start. I knew of a Ranger with similar situation, they replaced the filter, pump, and the main computer. After changing the computer a 2nd time did it become reliable.
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Don't want to bad mouth Fords, but this happens when they start to get old.
Intermittent problems are a pain to find/fix.
I suspect something is not sending a signal to the computer to fire the injectors.
Once it starts, the signal is restored.
Could be any number of other things, but I'd start there.
Next time it won't start, check for injector signal.
If you get no signal, you'll have to see what tells the computer to fire the signal.
Then check them, and the wiring, one by one.
It's just a pain.
It could be the computer, but being expensive, it's the last thing I'd change.
Sorry can't be more help.
My 2000 Explorer has been through 2 fuel pumps, same symptoms each time. Change the filter first (you should anyway) but don't be surprised if the pump is on it's last legs.
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How old is the gasoline? You know the stuff with ethanol goes bad pretty fast. It can turn into a gelatin mess.
ok something I learned the hard way the fuel filter should be changed every year on trucks that work. no longer then two years on any thing else. don't wait for it to clog up hen you will take a chance on something else going out that costs a lot more. if you have a in the tank fuel pump don't run it with less then a quarter tank of gas too much. the gas cools the pump if you let it get down and run it that way you over heat the pump.
Fuel filter.....when was it changed last??
I'd gander the ignition system. If you can easily start it with ether, and it will then run (albeit loby at the beginning as the cylinders just barely fire) you have a firing problem. If this was winter I would say condensation on the plugs. That still may be the case (recent fuel purchase?). Otherwise it may be the PIP, coil, or innards of distributor (if you have one). Check them in that order, as it's cheaper that way.
Bad fuel filters will cause a distinct choke back if you go say 30mph and then petal to the metal (its not getting enough fuel) If it's a fuel pump, it just won't work period (you can kick the tank in the place of the pump and usually jar it into working for a few miles the first time)
You didn't pay anything for this advice, so take it as such.
Fwiw, my dad's f-150 had a similar problem. After replacing the pump and filter, I played musical relays and it fired right up. New $5 relay and she was good to go.
"In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"
Fuel pump control module if the fuel pump is not running check that. I had a bad one on the 07 explorer. Relatively cheap part. Make sure the pump runs before you check that off.
I had the IAC (idle air control) motor go on my 06 Ford, when I removed the unit and tried to start it , it roared to life temporarily letting me know that was the culprit. You could try starting your truck near full throttle but not 100% and if it try's to start that might be it. Older cars had the carb butterfly valve on the intake partly open for idle, New cars run closed with a bypass...IAC Motor! Hope that helps!
Did you check what the fuel pressure was?????
Listening for the sound from the tank sometimes is not enough.
If it starts and runs fine after you sprayed starter fluid in it, fuel pump and filter should be good.
Did you drive it????
I'm thinking it's a bad relay someplace.
A multimeter will work for testing most sensors (usually check impedance). Abunaitoo is right about testing the pump. A normal schrader tire gauge will work for fuel pressure in a pinch: my 96 F-150 has a valve on the fuel rail.
fuel pump driver module
Just had to replace it on the '04 F150, it's located above the spare tire, of all places. This one had the metal cover cracked in half.
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Do you have a check engine light on by chance?Originally Posted by elkhuntfever
I don't buy the it happens to old Fords comment.
Unfortunately I have had to drive a Ford company van for the last 23 years and I'm on my 4th Ford van. I wore out a 92, 2000, 2004, and I'm currently working on a 2008. I hate them period but in their defense they run. They are however hard on front ends/ball joints and steering boxes. I generally put 275K-300K on them before I get another one.
My comment is take the thing to your Ford dealer and let him check it out. This will bypass the back yard shade tree mechanics here and get your problem solved.
Get a bottle of carb cleaner.
When you do get it started. spray around every vacuum line.
listen for the idle to change.
that will pinpoint a leak.
or the check valve in the fuel pump is failing.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
If you want to throw parts at it the pump and filter will be as good a place as any to start. Sensors, relays and modules are best diagnosed by folks that work on them regularly and have the diagnostic equipment to point them in the right direction. Anecdotal diagnosis is a bad idea, all you'll learn is what possibly failed on someone else's vehicle. A systematic diagnosis will tell you what's wrong with your truck. That's what you're really looking for, right?
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Go to the fuel rail and there is a relief valve there that looks sort of like a schrader valve on your tire. Push the inside part of the valve and see if any fuel comes out. Watch your eyes though. If no fuel there you have no pressure either from a bad pump or filter. It also could be a fuel sender. I just had one that said it had a 1/4 tank of fuel when the tank was completely empty. No fuel at the fuel rail but the pump was coming on. It could not suck up anything from the tank.
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