Mold for Marlin 30-30

[bigarm]

Looks like I am going to be acquiring a Marlin 336 in 30-30. I would like to cast boolits for it and powder coat them. I would use this mainly for plinking and maybe deer hunting at some point. What mold would you recommend? My only molds are from Hardline Industries so that is my only experience. I would most likely buy a mold from a custom mold maker, not a Lee. It is supposedly a newer one. Anything I need to know for casting for a microgroove barrel? I would probably not want to push the boolits too fast, so with powder coating do I need a gas check?

[Yodogsandman]

A clone of the Lyman 311041 (FP) or 311291 (RN).

[Bzcraig]

Lee molds are a very good value in either the 309-113 for reduced plinking, the 309-150 or 309-170 for hunting but if I was limited to just one it would be the NOE 311-165 RD.

[GoodOlBoy]

I am usually a Lee fan and this may come as a shock to those that know me, but for the 30-30 there is a MUCH better option.

RCBS 30-150-CM is my FAVORITE 30-30 mold at the moment and probably will be until RCBS makes it in a 165-175 grain. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/452...ProductFinding Out of my old 336 marlin just tumble lubed it does everything I could ever ask of it.

GoodOlBoy

[wmitty]

bigarm

regarding microgroove rifling, I'd suggest slugging to find groove dia. and sizing .002" larger boolit dia.

[btroj]

NOE 165 Ranch Dog.

[bigarm]

bigarm

regarding microgroove rifling, I'd suggest slugging to find groove dia. and sizing .002" larger boolit dia.

I watched a few videos on you tube. I have .400 bullets cast from 50% clip on and 50% stick on wheel weights. Can I use this to slug the barrel or would it be too big or too hard? It appears I can just pound lead through the barrel with a dowel. Is that correct? Since I will probably order a custom mold I probably should have the correct size. Thanks for your help.

[Hardline]

We tried slugging a .308 rifle barrel with a .312 bullet cast with 92:6:2. The bullet stopped moving when it was half way into the barrel and it was tough to get out. A 100% pure lead round ball with some case oil on it slides through barrels with ease though. A brass rod works well for tapping the bullet through, and it shouldn't take much more then tapping outside of initially smashing it into the barrel which a plastic dead blow hammer works well for.

[D Crockett]

Bigarm I have 2 Marlins and I have been told not to use a RN or a cone shaped bullet in them with a tube fed riffle you stand a chance of a detonation in the tube.I use a RCBS 150gr RNFP with gas checks and a Magma 165gr RNFP with a bb in my 30/30 givew me a pm if you would like to try some of these I might have a few around here some wheres D Crockett

[Intel6]

NOE 165 Ranch Dog.

Big +1!

[bigarm]

We tried slugging a .308 rifle barrel with a .312 bullet cast with 92:6:2. The bullet stopped moving when it was half way into the barrel and it was tough to get out. A 100% pure lead round ball with some case oil on it slides through barrels with ease though. Either a wooden dowel or brass rod works well for tapping the bullet through, and it shouldn't take much more then tapping outside of initially smashing it into the barrel which a plastic dead blow hammer works well for.

So I guess I should get a pure lead round ball. Where do you get such a thing?

[Yodogsandman]

LBT has directions on slugging your gun...

http://lbtmoulds.com/measurebore.shtml

[kir_kenix]

Another vote/recommendation for the NOE RD 165. Great boolit in any .30 caliber rifle.

[GabbyM]

Another vote/recommendation for the NOE RD 165. Great boolit in any .30 caliber rifle.

I have the NOE 311-165-RF in four cavity aluminum sitting here on the shelf. Bullet cast right to print spec but does not chamber in either of our 30-30"s. A Marlin 336 and a Win 94 AE. They both have .300" x .308" barrels.

[MtGun44]

DO NOT use a wooden dowel to slug a barrel, especially a rifle barrel. More than a
few have come here to ask how to get the jammed mess out without ruining their
barrel.

I have had excellent results with a 1/4" steel rod with a .25 ACP case hammered
onto the end as a brass shoe to keep the steel from contacting the barrel. A couple
of wraps of electrical tape on the rod will keep it from touching the barrel if you
are worried.

Wooden dowels can split on a long angle and the two pieces wedge solidly in
a couple hits. Game over.

Bill

[Shuz]

noe 165 ranch dog.

plus 1 for this design

[bigarm]

Update: I have ordered a steel rod and got some sinkers from Wal-Mart (don't know exact size) and have a .356 bullet I cast out of stick on wheel weights (hopefully one of those will work) so will slug the barrel when I get everything. Thanks to Bill*B I will have a Lyman 311440 mold to play with. Many thanks to him!

[Hardline]

Bigarm we picked lead balls up at the local Scheels, but you can get them from Midway: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/116...ets-round-ball. You don't have to be more than a few thousands oversized in order to get the proper slug. For your 30-30 i would get the 0.315 diameter.

+1 for the 25acp case on a steel rod for slugging. That is pretty ingenious actually. Alternatively, you can get a brass rod on MSC direct: http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/R...622+4288244372

[cuzinbruce]

For slugging a barrel. it is very easy to adjust the size of a pure lead bullet. Just put it in a vise end for end, and crank the jaw a bit to squeeze it. I have slugged .44 Magnum barrels with 32/20 bullets. As mentioned above, don't do it with a wooden dowel. I have done that and it can be a real problem WHEN the dowel splinters. It all gets much easier after you have done it a few times.