you can melt the lead out of the alum or use acetone to remove the PC just soak it. If it was me I would just melt it down and skim off the tubes.
Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon
Press them off with a Lee size die.
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Good Luck getting them out, push through sizer sounds like it will work if you can get them off the screen.
Next batch try ESPCing them on your screen and using non stick alum. foil or parchment paper and a baking sheet and invert them and bake them standing on their bases, after removing from the tubes of coarse, that way you don't bake your tube fixtures and the screen and have good conductivity for doing more.
I still have a pyrex baking dish I'm hiding from the wife that I used to cook my first batch of PC, "nothing sticks to pyrex, it will work" wrong, it now has 50 9mm boolits glued to it.
I had to scrub that picture thru Photoshop to even see it. It is almost completely dark and upside down! Now that I can actually see what is going on:
My 1st question is: Why are you putting them nose down in those little tubes???????????????? Set them on the bases on NSAF and spray like most of us do to get perfect coats. Coating the base does absolutely nothing to protect against gas cutting! If that is the problem and reason you are trying to coat the bottoms, use GC'd boolit molds and apply Cu GC's.
2nd question: Why are you spraying on an unprotected rack? The PC will build up and insulate the rack from the boolits after a few goes and you will have to throw the rack away and make a new one. NSAF is much cheaper and I get at least 4-5 batches out of the same piece of foil before the "flash" starts building up on the bottoms.
Your coat looks good.
Just break them off the rack, throw them all back into the pot to re-melt. The Al tubes will float on the surface and you can scoop them off. The PC will float also and scoop it out.
Cast some more boolits and spray as I suggested above and you will have perfect slugs!
bangerjim
The push thru sounds good, if the the ram is less than .490
I'd do the acetone hing first, if, I had been careful about my OAL on the tubes. I wasn't. Had I been, it might,? be possible to salvage the jig using nsrw on top of the tubes and pusing the bore ride dia thru the foil
as is, ill break the tubes off the screen, and try to push thru should be good enough to plink with
@banger, this was my first fixture from months ago, many batches since then
sorry about the lousy pic, black is tough to meter
Last edited by Bodine; 10-08-2014 at 08:31 AM. Reason: language
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |