simple Hi-Tek coating

[Ausglock]

10mm. use a tad more coating and the blotchyness will dissappear.
Use 6mls of mixed coating to 2.5Kg (5Lbs) of bullets.

[10mmShooter]

Hey Guys,

Just wanted to report back on hardness, after coating my bullets checked out at .060 to .061 with the Lee tester, this is roughly 13-14 BHN, this is exactly the same hardness as they stared with prior to baking, I do not water drop as I load for pistols only.

So the heat of two cycles at 400F had no effect on the alloy hardness.

[Avenger442]

Hey Guys,

Just wanted to report back on hardness, after coating my bullets checked out at .060 to .061 with the Lee tester, this is roughly 13-14 BHN, this is exactly the same hardness as they stared with prior to baking, I do not water drop as I load for pistols only.

So the heat of two cycles at 400F had no effect on the alloy hardness.

That is what I have found in my test.
Also found if you heat treat before you coat you return to about the original hardness of the lead before heat treat after the coating process(my alloy).
Because I load for rifle and pistol I had tried several different ways to harden the lead. My wheel weight plus 2% tin is 13-14 BHN about seven days after cast. If I water dropped after the last coat it goes to 16-17. If I want in the 20s BHN I have to use a more expensive alloy.
Believe, but have no testing to prove, that the Gold 1035 liquid coating with 2-Extreme cat I have been using will actually let me exceed the pressure that a normal 16 BHN will take with another lube. Some of my rifle loads have approached max with no leading.

[Pyrex]

Well, I did my first coating today. It went pretty smooth. Getting all the necessary tools and appliances was the hardest part. I'm pretty sure I burned the first few batches, the coating came out copper colored and darker. It passed all the tests, just didn't look gold. I started to get a lighter color when I added more acetone. It's pretty hot here still in texas and zero humidity, so the acetone was drying before I could get the coating in the lube grooves (was sticking to my mixing bowl in about 10 seconds), some of the bullets were not coated. After that they did come out gold, but I'm getting a rougher texture. Am I using too much color? I tried running it thin, but I ended up having to do three coats, and it was the same texture as two thicker. I'd like to get a glass like finish like some of you. Any tips?

[1845greyhounds]

Pyrex, the rough texture shouldn't hurt anything. But if you want to avoid it, don't continue to tumble past the point that the coating dries. With your weather conditions, try coating inside a sealed jar. Sealing the jar will reduce the solvent evaporation rate, thus allowing you longer wet coating time.

Similarly, warm boolits cause the solvent to evaporate quickly, resulting in rough coatings. I try to coat room temp boolits.

[HI-TEK]

Well, I did my first coating today. It went pretty smooth. Getting all the necessary tools and appliances was the hardest part. I'm pretty sure I burned the first few batches, the coating came out copper colored and darker. It passed all the tests, just didn't look gold. I started to get a lighter color when I added more acetone. It's pretty hot here still in texas and zero humidity, so the acetone was drying before I could get the coating in the lube grooves (was sticking to my mixing bowl in about 10 seconds), some of the bullets were not coated. After that they did come out gold, but I'm getting a rougher texture. Am I using too much color? I tried running it thin, but I ended up having to do three coats, and it was the same texture as two thicker. I'd like to get a glass like finish like some of you. Any tips?

Just a few quick question?
In what guns will you be using these coated alloys, (speed, load etc).
I noticed that they seemed gas checked.
Just curious as to why, if you are using these in normal loads?

[Pyrex]

Just a few quick question?
In what guns will you be using these coated alloys, (speed, load etc).
I noticed that they seemed gas checked.
Just curious as to why, if you are using these in normal loads?

I shoot these 440gr at 1650fps out of my 500 magnum. 35gr Lilgun. I'm not sure if I can shoot these not gas checked with the coating, I've always gas checked them, and I get a little bit of leading. I'm going to try it checked, see if I can keep the bore clean, if so I'll try a few without a gas check and see what happens.

[Pyrex]

Pyrex, the rough texture shouldn't hurt anything. But if you want to avoid it, don't continue to tumble past the point that the coating dries. With your weather conditions, try coating inside a sealed jar. Sealing the jar will reduce the solvent evaporation rate, thus allowing you longer wet coating time.

Similarly, warm boolits cause the solvent to evaporate quickly, resulting in rough coatings. I try to coat room temp boolits.

Ah, that's a really good point. That's probably what's causing the rough texture. Problem is 10 seconds of tumbling isn't enough to get the bullets lubed well, at least that's what I'm seeing. I'm letting the bullets cool to air temp, not coating them hot. I tried to tumble them sealed, but the container popped and sprayed me with lube, not too fun. With this heat it expands too quickly.

[HI-TEK]

Ah, that's a really good point. I'm letting the bullets cool to air temp, not coating them hot. I tried to tumble them sealed, but the container popped and sprayed me with lube, not too fun. With this heat it expands too quickly.

Just simply add more acetone to mix so that it stays wet a little longer whilst shaking/tumbling coats.
Then simply dump on drying surface, and don't disturb, and dry well before cooking.
If solvent/coating mixture is thinned, it will coat well and will still dry quickly after coating.
You are not adding more coating, but adding more solvent to help with slowing drying rate.
Let us know how you go.

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Any tips?

MEK (methyl ethyl keytone) evaporates slightly slower than Acetone. Denatured Alcohol dries even slower. I personally not used the alcohol as I never had a reason to, but I do know of a couple of folks who have used it successfully.



[/QUOTE]

[Ausglock]

I use MEK for the same reason. Slower drying and gives more time for even coating.

[atygrit]

I have had nothing but problems with this coating and I realize this is a learning process, but I got frustrated with it and decided to just buy some bullets that have already been coated to test out in my guns.

I had some of the coating come off on my 45 ACP barrel, but NOTHING compared to my XDM 9mm barrel. I keep reading that people shoot 100 rounds and their barrels are perfect except for a little carbon. Obviously I don't have "just carbon" in my 9mm barrel.

Are these smash and wipe tests acceptable? With the exception of the smash test, these are the same results that I was getting with my own cast and coated bullets. The 9mm barrel is with 100 rounds through it and it looks exactly the same as my own cast and coated and I'm VERY frustrated because it is going to take me a while to get the coating out (or at least what I believe is the coating).

I'm using 4.3 grains of HP 38 with a 125 grain 9mm bullet.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks for any help.

[HI-TEK]

I have had nothing but problems with this coating and I realize this is a learning process, but I got frustrated with it and decided to just buy some bullets that have already been coated to test out in my guns.

I had some of the coating come off on my 45 ACP barrel, but NOTHING compared to my XDM 9mm barrel. I keep reading that people shoot 100 rounds and their barrels are perfect except for a little carbon. Obviously I don't have "just carbon" in my 9mm barrel.

Are these smash and wipe tests acceptable? With the exception of the smash test, these are the same results that I was getting with my own cast and coated bullets. The 9mm barrel is with 100 rounds through it and it looks exactly the same as my own cast and coated and I'm VERY frustrated because it is going to take me a while to get the coating out (or at least what I believe is the coating).

I'm using 4.3 grains of HP 38 with a 125 grain 9mm bullet.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks for any help.

All details suggest/indicate, inadequate baking and possibly also inadequate drying before baking.
There should not be any solvent wipe off, and flaking indicates dry coat after bake but not fused/bonded to alloy surface.
From where did you get commercially coated projectiles to test?

[atygrit]

That is what I was thinking could be the issue, but I have an email in to the commercial caster, so I don't want to say at this time.

[Pyrex]

yep, more acetone and dropping them on the drying tray before they get tacky solved my issue. Now they look like better.






GOOOOLLLLLLDDDDD!!

[jayjay1]

Could someone please tell me the current colours, that are available?

I like the Red Apple Candy, seems to be easier to handle with.
Which colours are similiar to it (metallic view)?


P.S.:
Thanks to Joe for the great product.

[HI-TEK]

Could someone please tell me the current colours, that are available?

I like the Red Apple Candy, seems to be easier to handle with.
Which colours are similiar to it (metallic view)?


P.S.:
Thanks to Joe for the great product.

Thanks jayjay1.

Many do like the Candy apple red colour. It is a metallic Red with Gold flecks.
There are too many colours, and it is not possible to post each colour on products.
I will try to post the Candy Apple picture and I hope I can do it.

[Ausglock]

They look familiar .......

[HI-TEK]

Could someone please tell me the current colours, that are available?

I like the Red Apple Candy, seems to be easier to handle with.
Which colours are similiar to it (metallic view)?


P.S.:
Thanks to Joe for the great product.

Attached is more colours DDRed, Gold 1035, and Zombie Green

[HI-TEK]

They look familiar .......

They should look familiar,.... that is the ones secured by my security team, to prevent copy cats taking them to try and reproduce......lol